Quote from: phatt on October 21, 2022, 04:07:22 AMI found this by accident,
Jim Has spent a lot more money on his research than I have and has arrived at a similar observation as myself about guitar Sound/Tone?

Well worth the time if you want to know just how to make it work without spending a fortune.

Make sure you watch the last part about his Tackle Box,, it will seriously challenge the tube freaks.
Phil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcBEOcPtlYk

I actually just found this series of videos a week ago.  I plan on posting about it soon!  Jim is a great story teller and shows us what we've known for a long time - it's all about frequencies - EQ, EQ, EQ.

It is very unlikely you will find a schematic for this now, if ever.  It's possible you will find a wiring schematic that breaks down how things hook up inside (PCB 1 goes to pins A, B, C etc).

For what reason do you need the schematic?  Most times amps like this either break with a simple thing (need to resolder a jack, or replace a potentiometer, maybe blown speaker) or are completely unfixable (DSP module dies).

Quote from: geektardo on October 16, 2022, 09:37:32 PMWould a SansAmp be a less cumbersome solution? A lot of bass players swear by them.

Maybe, although I know I wasn't terribly fond of the Sansamp GT2 I tried (with electric guitar).  A few good sounds could be had, but there was so much adjustment available that a whole entire host of bad or "ok" sounds were there.

Quote from: Roark on October 17, 2022, 01:06:44 PMIt's a Fender Frontman 15G Amp, which is useful to me because it's small enough to fit on my desk, for when I give lessons. There's a pretty loud Hum from the Amp, mainly when cold & whether or not anything is Plugged In. This is with the Amp Volume set to zero.
The Hum usually Stops after the Amp has warmed up for about 5-10 min. For awhile the Hum was eliminated by [repeatedly] unplugging & replugging the guitar cable from the input jack of the amp.But now the problem is getting progressively worse & the Hum returns, even after the Amp has warmed up [& now there's even other noises: distortion?,crackling?,static?].

I'm asking your advice to confirm whether this Hum is likely to be caused by a cold solder joint of the Input Jack?... or something else?

To isolate the problem I eliminated: the Cables, A/B Box [Splitter], Guitar & Effects Pedal I normally use.

The problem appears to be in the Input Jack because I noticed I used to be able to eliminate the Hum by pulling the cable plug/tip part way out of the input jack,to the point where the plug/tip first touches the contact in the jack ; & then pushing up & down on the plug/tip [jiggling a bit]: I  would hear the hum stop completely & there was a click sound!  But this doesn't work any more.

Sounds like the on-board solders are broken - if you are lucky, the pads are still intact on the PCB.  If you are handy with a soldering iron, open it up and wet the joints (reheat them, ideally adding a small amount of solder at the same time).

Quote from: Tassieviking on October 09, 2022, 11:46:09 PMI was under the impression that was how it worked, one switch is for ch1 or ch2 and the other switch changed over to channel 3

That is correct according to the manual I found.

Thanks for sharing, Phil!  Nice playing as well.

Any chance you could share the schematic for your PhAbb Tone here?

Quote from: Montywitha-Y on October 06, 2022, 01:40:03 PMI hate to belabor this but I have built this foot switch to the best of my knowledge but button 1 switches between channels 1 and 2 just fine and button 2 does nothing, so I am unable to switch to channel 3. Any further suggestions would be amazing and appreciated. Also, again, if anyone has this switcher, I would deeply appreciate any interior photos of the layout. Thanks again!

First, I'm assuming you are using a TRS (stereo, three conductors) cable?  If not, that is the issue.  If so, you should be able to connect the ring and sleeve together for the second switch.

Blackstar has thrown their hat in the ring for best solid state pedalboard power amp with the AMPED 1.  With 3 voicings, 6 "response" settings, 3 band eq, and built in reverb, this isn't a straight-forward power amp, or a modeling amp per-se, but rather somewhere in between.

100 watts of power, 8 ohm and 16 ohm compatible, on-board power reduction feature, and loads of connectivity available for output (speaker, headphones/line out, USB, XLR).  It also features two 9v output jacks to power pedals up to 500ma.

With an MSRP of $499 USD, it isn't exactly cheap, but it isn't boutique pricing either.

https://www.gearnews.com/blackstar-amped-1-100-watt-amp-for-your-pedalboard/

I looked up the manual for this and found it is a two button switch on a TRS 1/4 cable.  This just means it uses a stereo 1/4" cable rather than standard mono guitar cable.  Testing will be the same way, but you will go from the ground at sleeve (ring closest to the wire) to the tip or to the middle ring.

https://www.randallamplifiers.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/9/2019/09/RG1003HMANUAL.pdf

Quote from: Montywitha-Y on September 26, 2022, 04:53:59 PMI'd like to start by thanking you all for having me in your forum! I'm new to both solid state amps and to electronics builds. I am wondering if anyone here has a schematic or wiring diagram (makes noob blood boil just slightly less) for the foot switch that works with the Randall RG1003H amp head. It seems I'm deeply allergic to the idea of paying $100 for this foot switch (when they can even be found). If not, I would humbly ask if an owner of that foot switch could take a good picture of the layout and post it? Anything would help. Thanks, again!

I haven't looked this one up, but most amps just simply short the tip and sleeve of a 1/4" cable for the switch.  To test this, plug in a guitar cable, and then use a wire (or other piece of metal) and short the tip and sleeve - see if it changes the channel on the amp - it probably will.  If so, you'll need to determine if it needs a momentary or standard switch.  If it switches channel when you connect the two leads, then changes back to the original channel when you disconnect, you need a standard switch.  If it stays switched until you touch the leads together again, you need a momentary switch.

Fender has released a new addition to the Tone Master line, the new Tone Master Princeton Reverb.  For those that don't know, Tone Master is the moniker Fender is using for it's DSP amps that have a single model without any digitized options available.  The amps have analog controls on the outside and look almost identical to the amps they are built to model.  The concept is that you get the same looks, sound, and playing feel as a tube amp, but none of the weight, parts availability issues, and cost.  Take a look and a listen over at Guitar World.

MSRP is $899 USD and it looks like they are starting to be available already.

https://www.guitarworld.com/news/fender-tone-master-princeton-reverb

If I could like this more than once, I would!  Please share results when you get a chance to build it.  I'd love to hear it play too!

No buffer needed between the power amp and the preamp (Bluesbreaker).  That said, I've never used a BB as a preamp.  You won't know if you like it till you try it.  My guess, you won't have enough tonal control.  You like the sound of them which is great, but you don't send it into a flat eq'd amplifier - you send it to a guitar amp.  Even when you set a guitar amp eq to look flat, it has a large mid cut and sometimes other shaping.

Great work!  I split the topic though and made this it's own so it can be an easy resource for others later.

Quote from: Carriage on July 18, 2022, 05:38:17 AMParts have arrived from tayda.
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How's it sound?