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Messages - joecool85

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The Newcomer's Forum / MOVED: Music Electronics Forum
« on: July 06, 2020, 11:31:44 AM »

Crew Nation, set up by Live Nation, is helping musicians and those who tour with them (road crew etc) who need financial support due to not being able to tour etc to support themselves.  Fender has decided to help out with this and is now supporting Crew Nation with the sale of some Masterbuilt guitars.  These guitars were built at home by some of Fender's best luthiers and they look great!

According to, the Shure SM57 and SM58 earned the 1st and 2nd place spots respectively for best cheap mics in 2020.  This isn't terribly surprising since they have been at the top of their game since they came out over 50 years ago.  Check out the others in their top 8.

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Inkjet printed circuit boards
« on: June 07, 2020, 08:35:54 PM »
Great share, this is very exciting and would be VERY useful for home use/fabrication of prototypes!  I could print out a board that I just designed and have it put together in the same day!   :dbtu:

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Fender Frontman 65 distortion
« on: June 06, 2020, 08:23:16 PM »
Sorry to also revive such an old thread, I also have a Fender FM65r which suddenly developed a really unbearable crackling & distortion intermittently every couple of minutes, if I messed around with on off button it stopped but then started again after a few mins and drove me up the wall!!!! I changed on/off switch but no resolve, viewed internally on pcb and found capacitor 50 had leaked, replaced with a new one but amp still did the same, after lots of investigation and searching internet after nearly giving up I stumbled upon this thread, amazingly I found a few others had had same issue and I’d after reading Roly & Enzo smart advice I decided to change transistors Q10 & Q11 to BD139 & BD140 transistors, also cleaned all pots and everything else internally and stunned the amp runs like a dream crystal clear like new and no dirty crackling pots as well. So I needed to say a huge thank you to Roly who unfortunately I hear has passed, a traffic loss to guys like us who totally appreciate his knowledge and his sharing this to help others, big thanks to Enzo and any others who participated in this thread over the years. These threads are a massive help to people like us who are stuck and don’t know what to do next. I was going to give up on the repair till I fell upon this, so a massive thanks again guys you saved me at least £100 trying to get repaired which I doubt anywhere would with it being a non repairable amp by Fender, and such little repair information available anywhere to aid us in repairing, in total the parts cost me about £3 to fix amp and that’s expensive as I only bought couple of each parts needed.
I’ll definitely try here again when I have more issues with any gear. Many thanks all. Steve Dutton, vocals, guitars & production in Manchester band The Dead Xtra’s

Welcome aboard, Steve!  Glad to hear the forum helped you out!  These old posts are gold sometimes, that's for sure!

Very professional looking!  Not sure I love the wire wrapped style, it makes for a heck of a birds nest of wires.  But hey, if it works, who am I to judge?  And it's done very cleanly.

Abominable Pedals, God City, Chase Bliss Audio, and Cooper FX are some of the latest companies to start actively promoting the end of racism.  I hope that this continues and eventually gets to the point where it isn't necessary because racism dies out.  Call me a dreamer, but I'm not the only one.

Guitar News / Re: DryBell releases "The Engine" - $299 preamp pedal
« on: June 05, 2020, 09:10:47 AM »
I quote the vid at 7.18

"So there you have it folks the Engine truely evokes the feel and tone of those classic Amps."

Meanwhile using a REAL JMP 50Watt Marshall. Durh???? what a load of crap :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Which is much the same as promoting A Boss fender 64 reverb pedal sounding like a real 64 reverb Amp.
And demonstrating it through a,,, real 64 Fender amp.
Yeah right,,,,, And I can make a  banana flavor taste like a real banana just buy using a real banana.  :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

This crap goes on all the time on these pedal demos,,
The REAL ACID test is how good some wizz bag pedal pulls off great tone through a small bedroom amp. 8|

Don't get me wrong the pedal sounds good but at least test it through some basic amps as well as through the obvious Big name Valve gear.
That would give punters a much more realistic impression of how well the pedal will suit their setup.
For every Big name Valve amp Owner there would be 10~100 times more basic amp owners out there.
Which equates to far greater profit if they had a even half a brain. :loco

For those that don't know, the touch response mentioned in the vid has more to do with the Valve amps used than the pedal.
The Sustain at 1.24 is simply the Valve amp feed back which has little to do with the pedal. Any basic pedal with boost up will cause a valve amp to feedback like that.
Again this has little to do with how good the pedal works. The wank factor is in a lot of these demos and it's time the young ones woke up to the hype.
Rant over,, Phil.

I honestly overlook most of this now because it seems all major players do this game.  You are right though, it would be interesting to see what this sounds like through a simple Fender Frontman, Marshall MG, Vox Pathfinder etc.  My guess, it'd sound okay.  Which is basically what I thought during the video, it sounds good, but not anything that blew me away.  Everyone has their thing though, maybe this is it for some?

Guitar News / DryBell releases "The Engine" - $299 preamp pedal
« on: June 04, 2020, 01:47:43 PM »
DryBell has announced it's newest pedal, The Engine.  Selling for $299, this is a preamp pedal "for all those that love 1960's style non-master volume amps."  The concept sounds good, and the clips sound pretty good.  But it seems a convoluted way to get the sounds they are shooting for.  There are two preamps on board, A and B.  You can control either one, or put them together with A or B coming first in the signal chain.  They both have tone controls but not your typical TMB stack.  Preamp A has Level, Gain, Tone, and Shape.  Preamp B has Level, Range, Low, and High.

Perfect?  Too complicated?  What's your take?

That Klick Knob has released their eponymous product.  For $20.99 you can get a knob that you can "set."  The short of it is that you can pull it up and turn as per normal, or push it in and have a settable detent to your favorite position.  Neat idea, but not sure how successful this will be.  First, it only comes in "strat style" knobs.  Second, is this even an issue?  Many guitarists I know just run their guitar wide open.  The ones that don't, change settings on the fly regularly and don't have a "sweet spot" necessarily.  Still, A+ for innovation, it's definitely something I've never seen before!

What do you guys think?

The Newcomer's Forum / Re: Tda ICs Pentawatt PCB
« on: May 29, 2020, 01:07:58 PM »
Thanks a lot...  :tu: About the heatsinks, do you think any piece/sheet of metal will do the job, or it is worth to use a proper one. Aluminum or denser... ?

Aluminum is the typical go-to for heatsinks.  Also, I hit edit by accident on your post, it's been a long day.  But I didn't actually edit the post.

Schematics and Layouts / Re: Teisco CheckMate 22 schematic
« on: May 27, 2020, 08:40:03 AM »
Bumping this cuz we seem to have reached the limitation of the tiny output transistors.  ::)

The new 18VAC transformer and resulting 25VDC rail is just a bit too much for them.  ;)
Playing the amp for more than 30 minutes at full volume causes the output transistors to go into thermal overload.

At less than full volume I have not reached the limit...
but this thing sounds so darned good at full.  8)

So options are...

1. Better heatsinking on the output transistors
2. Better (higher rated) transistors and better heat sinking.

I'm leaning toward option 2 but might try cobbling up a better heat sink for the originals.

I do have a couple of NOS T0-3 PNP Germanium transistors looking for a home...  ;)

I'm always a fan of giant heat sinks:

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Frontman 212R
« on: May 22, 2020, 09:19:36 PM »
Was the switch you replaced the overdrive switch?  It seems that is the issue here.

Obviously the top OD input SKT has failed and ideally you need to replace that socket but as it might be hard to source the exact part then here is an option using only one input socket,, probably similar to what *Joe* mentioned.
Now as it's possible the input for Supercube 100 might be different to the cube 60 schem I'm working from I can't be sure this would work so you will have to tread careful and double check.
This requires an N/C switched Socket and a DPDT switch to work.
N/C means Normally Closed,, opens when you insert.

As to your Q re those ribbon wires, you can just gently use your fingernails to split them, might have to nic between them to get it started but they should seperate fairly easy.
If you need more length then use a piece of strip board and then add more wires.
With out a pic of how the ribbon connects to PCB it's hard to give advice.
Hope it helps, Phil.

Looks good to me, Phil.  Your drawing adds in the switched jack so that when nothing at all is plugged in, both inputs are grounded.  Nice touch.

To niftyprose, the DPDT Phil shows does *not* need any connections between the top pins on left and right.  What he is showing is the switch in the overdrive position.  Also remember that wires traces that cross don't connect unless there is a filled black circle connecting them where they meet.

Good luck!

Joe, step back and look again.  That line "connecting" 1,2,3,4,5 and has the dashes in it is not a trace, it is the border of the board.  It is not a conductor.

Ignore the dotted line, and reread phatt's description.

If you follow the dotted line around it would also"short" all three legs of Q11, or whatever transistor is at pins 6,7,8.  Clearly it is not a circuit trace.

Wow, very poorly drawn indeed.  But you are right, definitely a PCB edge.  Confusing since each pin label has a circle, typically representative of a node/connection.

The good news, my plan still works exactly as described in my previous post  :dbtu:

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