Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - joecool85

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 144
$150 - $200 range.
Requires a separate charge pack if you want to use it that way.

That is an older product, the 529.  This 529m is smaller and can run 9, 12v, or 18v.  It only has two jacks, a USB-C power input and a single power output (can be split).  I don't see it on their site as of yet.

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Peavey Stereo Chorus noise problem
« on: January 27, 2020, 01:47:35 PM »

Well this is turning into a bit of a monologue!

No worries, we like hearing about progress. Pictures are good too!

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Peavey Stereo Chorus noise problem
« on: January 26, 2020, 08:25:39 PM »
It would also make sense because they were working fine at a lowish volume but once I got it home and turned it up a bit, nowhere near maxed or anything, I knocked something loose.  It probably hadn't been played in years.  It was also in storage for part of the time.  I'm hoping to pull them apart tonight.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

No pricing, but my guess is $80-100.  They claim 3,000ma, not sure if they mean mah, which is different.  Regardless, kind of a neat piece of kit.

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Best way to tap power for 9v reverb?
« on: January 25, 2020, 07:59:29 PM »
I don't believe the + side is getting any more load than the - side.  I know both sides measure identical voltage, so there is no sag on that side anyway.  I've attached the schematic in case this helps.

Amplifier Discussion / Best way to tap power for 9v reverb?
« on: January 24, 2020, 08:27:26 PM »
I'm thinking about adding reverb to my K20-X and rather than build out the circuit as the K30RX (they share the same board), I'm thinking of using a Belton brick.  This would require 9v DC to supply it.  I'm leaning towards simply attaching a basic 7809 regulator to the positive line of the +/-18v PSU output.  I know that technically this would draw a few ma off that end of the PSU potentially making it unbalanced, but I can't image it would be an issue.  So, what do you guys think?

Schematics and Layouts / Re: guitar amp diagram revision help
« on: January 24, 2020, 08:07:30 PM »
BTW, X1 is NOT a buffer. As for distortion, just adding diodes won't work well, you would need to add an extra stage to get a reasonable outcome.
You could add an input buffer stage and alter X1 to work like the link *Joecool* noted above.

Also, I believe the TDA2050 is no longer made, though you could use LM1875, others here will know more.

The reality of this is that you it would work out a lot cheaper and many times easier to just purchase a small amp. xP

TDA2050 is marked as obsolete anywhere I've looked.  You could probably source one on eBay though.  That said, LM1875 is a great chip and I think it is a direct replacement pinout wise (you'd want to double check).

I disagree on the just buying a small amp though, unless money is the most important aspect.  Building an amp is fun and a great learning experience - well worth the money involved.  That said, buying a kit could be a good way to go.  Or buy something like this 5w unit and then build an overdrive to sit in front of it:

Schematics and Layouts / Re: Schematic sites for different brands of amps
« on: January 24, 2020, 08:01:15 PM »
Dean Markley's site is now down, but you can get to the archive of pdfs in

Guitar News / Mooer digital amps in the marketplace - Mooer SD series
« on: January 23, 2020, 07:54:02 PM »
Mooer Audio has released a new line of amps, the SD series.  They are bluetooth equipped digital solid state amps.  Boasting 40 preset slots and 25 amp models along with 30 or 75w of solid state power, these amps should shine at small gigs and rehearsal spaces as well as in the bedroom for solo practice.

Tubes and Hybrids / Re: transformer replacement
« on: January 23, 2020, 11:34:06 AM »
I had a guy check it out who works on mostly vintage amps.  Said no power on other side of transformer.  I know nothing about them  Where would I go to find the parts you are talking about?

First, are you connecting to 115v or 230v?  Next, go to, or and start looking for transformers.  Let us know what you are connecting to and we should be able to help you find something.

Schematics and Layouts / Re: guitar amp diagram revision help
« on: January 23, 2020, 11:30:46 AM »
Thanks for your answer. I think it would be better to add 'internal' overdrive as in Marshall amplifiers. For this, if I add 2 reverse diodes to the first buffer, will it work? I draw the scheme as a pcb and now I have to make all additions, I have no chance to add it later.

If you were to modify the preamp section to be similar to one with overdrive, that should work.  Here is one that is easy to work with:

Guitar News / More new amps at NAMM
« on: January 22, 2020, 11:46:32 AM »
While tube amps definitely did come out to play, I'm looking at you Suhr Hombre, it seems solid state held it's own as well.

BlueGuitar Amp X: name their pick of the top 4 best amps at NAMM and 3 of them are solid state:

Tubes and Hybrids / Re: transformer replacement
« on: January 22, 2020, 11:14:41 AM »
I am new to this.  I don't even play a guitar but I try.  I do play the harp though and I have a hohner amplifier.  The power light went out, I took it to a repair man and he said the transformer was shot and could not find a replacement.  The amp is a hybrid with solid state and tubes.  Name is transtec  it has some voltages labeled on it.  Can someone help me find a replacement for this?  I will take it to someone as I know nothing of electronics.

Thanks in advance

I/P 115/230v AC 60/50 HZ
O/P 195v ac 100mA
3,5v*2 ac 1500mA
14.5v *2 ac 100mA

The odds of finding a single transformer to take the place of your old one is unlikely.  That said, you could replace the old transformer with 3 small ones that each handle the part of the required load needed.  My question is this though, is the transformer actually bad?  If so, why?  Transformers don't normally just die.

Schematics and Layouts / Re: guitar amp diagram revision help
« on: January 22, 2020, 11:12:09 AM »
I would build the amp as-is and see how you like it.  As far as building in a distortion channel, it's as simple as choosing your favorite diy distortion circuit and building it out in front of the input on the amp!

While I'm not sure there was ever a need for this, it is interesting.  Rainger FX has released the Minibar pedal.  A stomp box that only functions when it has liquid poured into it.  It will then sample the liquid and based upon unknown properties, it will register with the device and choose a tone for you.  For $159 you can have this on your pedal board - though I have to ask, why?

Apparently the more conductive the liquid, the higher the gain.  The darker the liquid in color, the darker the tone (more bass).


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 144