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Messages - joecool85

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1
For under $100 USD (exact price not released), you can get 55 hours of play time on this flat response acoustic amp.  Perfect for vocals, acoustic guitar, or (my thoughts), electric guitar with a pedal board!

https://www.guitarplayer.com/frets/blackstar-debuts-new-fly-3-acoustic-mini-amplifier

2
The Newcomer's Forum / Re: Some wisdom regarding speakers
« on: February 22, 2020, 07:52:42 PM »
Thanx all for your reply,

it's obvious .. buy them all, try them all .. and probably keep them all !!!

Cheers

I like the way you think lol.   :tu:

3
Hey Joe,
I hazzard a guess that Digi models just have way too much bandwidth,, = Fizz at high gain.
Well that is what my ears tell me every time I have to repair one of those all in one COSM roland pedal gizmos. yuk
I have a crappy digiteck modeling pedal thing here that I got for nothing and it's the same issue.

Years back I went nuts trying to resolve the 20/20 bandwidth on an old Quadraverb. For their day they were top shelf gear.
while trying to record some guitar tracks with it I ended up just inserting a simple ANALOG Marshall cab sim between the quad and deck,,,, huge improvement.
From what I can gather not much has changed.
So as you can probably guess I'm not a fan of modeling setups.
A young lad asked me only last week why can't I get the sound of the great players from years ago?
Answer, TOO MUCH friggin bandwidth in modern amps and gear lad.  8|
Phil.

That doesn't seem insurmountable though as an engineering feat.  Here's hoping that they figure that out.

4
If it sounds great and is cheaper, lighter and more reliable than a valve amp then why not.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk

Exactly!  My one beef with any modeling amps I've tried - they don't take pedals well.  And when I say that, it's really that they don't take boosters/light ODs well when you are using them to push the amp to break up like you might on a tube amp.  They get fizzy/ugly.  If they can fix this issue, I think valves can take a back seat for good!

5
The Newcomer's Forum / Re: Laptop charger 3 core cable
« on: February 18, 2020, 07:40:54 AM »
Will just try it anyway. If it works and theres no smoke or sparks then its OK.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk

That's pretty much it.  For what it's worth, I believe the Dell branded ones are quiet.  I'm sure others are as well though.

6
Hi all,

got carried away with this thought about multiple diodes and after some brainstorming I made a simple schematic (according to my knowledge based on auto-moto electronics) .. with some on-line schematics tool.

I would like to hear if my thinking is logical or not.

CR 1 & 2 are removed, there comes a socket (J1 & 2),
2 x switches (S1 & 2),
repeating diodes D1 - D10

Greetings

This should work with the exception that it looks like all diodes are facing the same way.  The diodes in the "S1" section should face the opposite direction as the ones in the "S2" section.

7
Hi Phil,

thanx for your explanation.

I had to read it 3 x to really understand what you meant.
Im not that good within electro-language-slang.

But I got your message.

Quote
As Joe has already mentioned you can use Leds if you want as they have a higher breakdown voltage so distort later. the big gotcha with any diode dirt circuit is the dreaded fizz that often comes with the dirt and most of the low wattage bedroom amps don't bother to filter out the fizz and they often sound quite harsh.

Do you want to say just it's a too small / 'bad' amp for such experiment ?

Cheers

That experiment would work, but I think what Phil means is that it may not sound great with anything due to the way the rest of the circuit is built.  I still suggest the sockets.  Then you can swap as much as you'd like.  If you find that you like more than one combination, you could build a little daughter board with switching to swap between the combinations as you talked about.  My guess though is that you will find one combo that works best and you'll stick with that.  Most circuits end up with a kind of "sweet spot" where things just fall in place.

8
Hello Phil,

thank you for the reaction.


Still a few questions;
   
Quote
Just remove CR1 & CR2 for clean.
   Or you could wire up a switch to switch those 2 diodes in or out of circuit for clean or dirt.

  •   this means for each diode 1 off/on switch?
     so when the switch is OFF, that means that same diode is disabled ?
  • for my purpose of learning: are those CR1 and CR2 a 'bad' diodes, are there a 'better' one for possible replacement - or it's just old school SS amp design?

edit: found an info at  http://www.tpub.com/neets/book7/27m.htm ,  is this diode mod about same/similar thing - "Rectifier action of CR1 and CR2. NEGATIVE / POSITIVE ALTERNATION ?
 
 
Quote
With diodes out of circuit you will find there will be a lot more clean but being a small amp it will still distort when volume is high.

  • being a small amp as 'small' aka SS 15w or small because of the speaker?
    I will use a single 12" or (2x) 10" - so to an external cab.

Greeting

CR1 and CR2 are 1n4148.  These are very similar to the old 1n914.  While there is nothing wrong with these diodes, I know from experience that they tend to have a more "fuzz" type of distortion.  If you would like more of an "overdrive" sound, try replacing those two diodes with red LEDs.  Make sure you have them with one facing one direction, and one the other (just like the original diodes).  An even better idea is to solder in two sockets and then you can swap diodes at will and see what sounds best.  Some circuits, like my own 5th Gear Overdrive, use two different diodes.  In my case, 1n914 and a red LED.

Here are some diodes that you could try: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/silicon-signal-1/ and http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/led-t-1-3-4-5mm-diffused/

And the sockets: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/single-in-line-mill-max/

9
Guitar News / Re: It's 2020, and Germanium Fuzz pedals still sound awesome
« on: February 08, 2020, 07:06:24 AM »
Thanks Joe,, Well not my thing and it sounds just like all the other fuzz boxes I've ever heard/Played. Always hated that sound as it just trashes an otherwise good sound.
The kids obviously love em and they are still getting rave reviews. The circuit has been rehashed many times over and it still sounds crap to me  xP
 but each to there own opinion. :tu:
Phil.

Honestly not really my thing either. I see fuzz as a great pedal for solo/lead guitar and I prefer playing rhythm where fuzz just gets muddy. That said, I love hearing a rocking solo with a good bit of fuzz going!

10
Guitar News / It's 2020, and Germanium Fuzz pedals still sound awesome
« on: February 07, 2020, 09:45:40 AM »
It's pretty amazing that germanium transistors are still in existence in modern life.  They are temperamental, difficult to find, large (relatively speaking), and OLD.  Germanium transistors came into existence in the 1950's, but were largely replaced by silicone transistors by the 1960's.  They do still exist even now in certain applications, one of them being guitar fuzz pedals.  Here is a brand new fuzz pedal using germanium in 2020 and it sounds awesome: https://www.gearnews.com/mad-professor-fuzz32-a-very-limited-edition-hand-wired-germanium-fuzz-pedal/

11
Guitar News / $109, 13AWG power cable makes your amp awesome?
« on: February 07, 2020, 09:39:38 AM »
Snake oil has taken a new low.  There is now a $109 guitar amplifier power cable claiming that it increases clarity of your amplifier.  Seriously folks, this is nothing special.  It's a large copper cable.  If you are getting line loss on your stock 18AWG power cable, use a shorter cable.  Or buy a 14AWG or 16AWG cable to replace it.  Monoprice has them for less than $5 for the 14 gauge version.  For some reason, the reviewer at Guitar Player seems to think it makes an audible difference.  I highly doubt this claim.

https://www.guitarplayer.com/gear/review-cutthroat-audio-copper-john-power-cable

12
Amplifier Discussion / Re: marshall G30R CD clean channel volume problem
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:19:26 PM »
You say it still has volume when set to zero...how much volume are we talking about here?  Barely audible?  Very loud?  Does the volume otherwise work properly, it just can't get down to dead quiet?

13
Hello good people from SSGuitar forum.

It's nice to see enthusiasts and professionals who are still in love with old stuff.
I've been reading for a few days several treads and now decided to post mine.
But first about my skills;
- Im a mechanic by default,
- I have some experience with electronics. I can repair electronic stuff, solder, exchange components and such.
But I dont know why certain resistor or diode or capacitor is placed somewhere and what that particular part is doing there.

I have one Fender Frontman / Bullet 15W Reverb Pr-241.
It's doing good, exept this well known BUZZZ ..
Found out that I need a really good grounding and I took a wire from the radiator and connected to the chassis.
Buzz gone.
Then I removed the wires from the speaker, removed (external) ground wire and connected to 12" Celestion. No Buzz and very good sound.
Well done Fender, this amp sounds good.

Now I have the second small SS amp, a Squire Champ 15GR Pr-CPR1.
Overall is working good, however it does not sound good as it's brother- the Frontman. A difference in sound as night and day.
This model has 2 GAIN pot's and no distortion switch and no AUX input.
Also Im sure about the schematics, If I found on-line a good one as non of them are with 2 GAIN's.

Now what I would like to change or improve on this Champ amp:
 1. First and most important:
 - there is a 'light' distortion sound all the time, with or without Reverb, I can hear it all the time so also on the clean channel (the matter of a setup of 2 GAIN pots),
 2. the overall sound is kind of 'shallow' .. 'flat'.., I miss the richness of the Frontman. Tried it also on 12" Celestion.
  - so a bit nicer, fuller, richer sound would be appreciated.

Both amps will be NOT PLAYED on stock speakers but on a external cab.
 
I found on this forum some good stuff about diferent kind of diodes and swapping them, however I could not spot the right part on my board to compare it.

So my humble question would be:
 - if someone could 'guide' me to the right place on the board for exchanging diodes / resistors ... like I found in other treads regarded to Squier 15w.
 
I hope I was clear with my explanation (and my English).
If there are some other / more questions Im more than ready to answer them - only way to lean new things!

Greetings

You'll need the proper schematic.  According to Fender's list, you can get a PDF copy: https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/212774686-Fender-Guitar-and-Bass-Amplifier-Owner-s-Manuals-and-Schematics-Hard-Copy-Archives

There is an email address to write to linked at the top of that page.  Send them a message and they'll send you the PDF.

14
Most people probably use only one or two models anyway, even if they have 50. I also wonder if the audience would notice the difference in a stage setting - apart from us guitar nerds who get a front seat just to see the gear!

Honestly I doubt most folks would notice one amp from another, even different companies lol.  You are right abouts the models though, I use 2-3 on my Frontman 25DSP.  Really if there was one killer model, I'd probably use just that one.

15
The Newcomer's Forum / Re: Hello and a question about a Line 6 Spider 3
« on: February 04, 2020, 10:14:23 AM »
First off, welcome aboard!

Second, while I'm not familiar with these specific amps, my guess is that it is a loose connection causing the issue.  I would suggest unplugging the unit, then opening it up carefully and seeing if anything inside is disconnected or loose.  While there shouldn't be any dangerously high voltages present inside this amp, always exercise caution and keep from touching any capacitors (specifically the leads on the bottom).

Good luck!

P.S.  If you need help, post pics of the inside and we might notice something!

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