Quote from: rockman627 on August 13, 2026, 12:11:58 PMif I can find the attach/upload button.

You can either click on the 'preview' button, or use the 'reply' button below the last post (rather than using the 'quick reply' box that is open by default).  In either case there will be an option to upload attachment.

The 700rb schematic helped a lot. I found no connectivity between r94 pin 2 and the j4 woofer output.I soldered a thin 26 gauge wire to those points and got sound to the amp.Plugging into the fx return also produced sound.
Thank you for your advice and help. I would like to upload the 2001rb schematic I found in my download folder if I can find the attach/upload button.

There is not negative or positive by itself, voltages are always relative to some other value.
If you have a battery and ground positive end, the other end gives you negative voltage.
All normal voltage sources have both.

That said, *electrostatic* voltage sources, such as when you repeatedly wipe a piece of plastic with a piece of dry cloth, can be "unipolar" which can be checked by what they attract, such as dust, lint, etc, but they can not supply a current, light a lamp, run a motor, etc.

Everything is a compromise.
They get higher Vce,  200V, so useful in high power amplifiers which work with high voltage rails but pay for that with quite reduced current gain Hfe , so I wouldn´t build a preamp or pedal with them.
They are not your typical general purpose transistor.

Yes sir thanks I appreciate the input to the discussion 

I kinda see your point

For instance I can pop the hood on my 1980 Bronco and measure 12.6V DC or whatever

Then I can switch the probes and go hey look now I've got minus 12.6V DC

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So perhaps it's all relative 

That's why we have to use reference to ground to make sense of it all

I guess

I mean c'mon man you a lot more about this stuff than me 

But obviously alternating current is real 

What do you mean by "negative DC" though? Anti-conventional current, i.e. flow of negative charge?

Both currents are always present together, opposite and equal.

If there is a chemical cell battery in the circuit, inside a battery, both kinds of charged particles, anions and cations, are present and moving in opposite directions.

Imagine you have a circular ring of copper with current moving around in it (perhaps induced magnetically).  If, in our frame of reference, we spin the ring in the opposite direction of electron flow, we can get the electron current appear to stand stil. Then what is moving in circles is the nuclei of the copper atoms (together with any lower shell electrons that don't participate in current). That's a real flow of positive charges.

In other words, in a wire, the fact that protons are not moving while electrons are de facto means that the protons are moving in the opposite direction. If you could ride on top of an electron, you would be leaving protons behind in the rear view mirror, and that's essentially your conventional current flow.

It's like the wind in your face when you're on a bike. The air may be standing still on a windless day, but you have "conventional wind" in your face. 

What is an intepretation of conventional current in a vaccuum? Electrons are shooting from the cathode of a tube to the anode. Nothing is flowing backwards. But again, if you could ride on top of an electron, you would see that the more positive anode/plate is rushing toward you.

Yes sir thanks I will do that 

Ok I was gonna spare you the gory details but anyway

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I need to figure out why I have a complete green 🍏 line in real life but when I take a picture I only get partial fragments

The master pot is after the FX send, so that will be where the problem is.
Is this double sided board?  If so, you will likely have torn out some feed-throughs and will have to repair them.  These are like little pipes that connect the board's topside traces to the bottom side traces.  They often get removed by accident when components are forcibly removed.
Chip-quik is an excellent solution, it is a low temperature solder that you apply during part removal.  It stays molten much longer than regular solder, so you can heat up all 3 pins of the pot, then wiggle the pot out before the special solder hardens.

Quote from: saturated on August 12, 2026, 02:14:32 AMWhen I had the DC offset of the signal at zero or above no signal passed through

Your signal wasn't big enough.  If it had been big enough, the peaks beyond the diodes forward voltage drop would have got through and you would have seen the negative alternations of the sinewave.  This would have been rectified but unfiltered DC.

When you added the DC offset, you 'biased' the diode to be on, so the complete sinewave was able to get through.

What makes you say "this is not negative, it is ground" ?
From the PACO schematic, the (-) terminal appears to be floating, not grounded.  So you can connect the (+) output to ground and you have a negative supply at the (-) terminal.  This seems to be what you did anyway.