Solid State Guitar Amp Forum | DIY Guitar Amplifiers

I see 1-0-x0.01, so 0.1 ohm then 5%, and the final black band is something I don't care about like temperature stability.  (250k ppm/K)


But then I am sitting on my couch drinking beer...

This has all the hall marks of a mechanical fault.
Sounds like you have a loose connection, Gently wiggle jumper cables and see if you can find where the issue hides.
A cracked solder pad on the pcb can also give intermittent drop outs.

Gentle taps or pressure on the pcb with a wood kebab stick can help you find those gremlins.
Cracked solder pads or cracked tracks can be hard to see so
Close inspection in bright Sun Light as well as a magnifying glass will help sniff those issues out.

I once went bonkers trying to find an intermittent issue with a PCB and after hours of head scratching I turned the lights off and then went to turn the amp off.
As I turned off the amp with open chassis I saw a little flash of light under a power Cap.

Bingo,,, a hairline crack in the copper track hard up against the solder pad of the main filter cap.
Almost impossible to see even when looking straight at it as the crack followed the edge of the solder, a slight darker carbon burn was the only sign.

I once read a comment from a teck book that said a large part of electrical problems are in connections, whether they be a plug or solder or wire connection a large part of electrical breakdowns are in connections.
After years of fixing Muso gear I agree.
Phil

Much appreciated, thank you sir!  and a happy X-mass.

I have only seen for the IC100 :  https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4500.0;attach=8135;image
For the 'L' version, I think you would have to buy it from maj electronics.

Hi again,
Had some free time this morning, so I got the PCB (with the pots and inputs on it) out of the case and ohmed out the 0dB, -15dB, Effects Send, and Return jacks ... and they were all high resistance due to corrosion on the contacts.
Got ‘em cleaned up with a small file and contact cleaner, checked the tension on ‘em with the patch cable (making sure they opened and closed - several times), and rechecked the resistance: 0.40 ohms on ‘em all.
Put it all back together...

It works. Still a little crackle from the Squier due to patch cord contact at the output of that bass, but the Dean sound comes through nice and clear.

Guessing the years of use before I got my hands on it was the culprit.

Thank you guys so much for your help. I really didn’t know where to start, but now she’s up n running and I’m happy.

Thanks!