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Randall RG100ES Guru's take a look!

Started by Kizzlecake, January 16, 2014, 04:01:30 PM

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Kizzlecake

So that filter mounted in one side of the box.  Would I want to put a fuse or breaker in there?  And also ground the box with the "third(green)  wire?  Its been a very long time since I messed with any of this type of house wiring etc.  Avionics and Electronic stuff is all I've done in years.  Also,  I'm not familiar with how many amps my Guitar amp pulls,  plus a pedal board and maybe a couple rack items.  Is 6 amp going to do the job?  Again thanks for the info and your time,  always good to brush up on stuff and learn new stuff at the same time.

Roly

The box only need to be big enough to comfortably hold the filter and a mains outlet.  6 amps even on 110V is over 600 watts and that should be just about enough to filter a whole band (or you can get a higher current one for a few $'s more if you like).

A 70 watt amplifier should pull about double that flat out, say 150 watts;

150/110 = 1.36amps, so a 6 amp filter should be more than sufficient.

You can certainly fit a switch, fuse/breaker, pilot light, wheels and a sexy paint job if you feel like it.  A fuse or breaker can be helpful if some drongo tries to plug a blow heater or the stage lights into it and will stop it burning up.

I'd keep it simple to start with and just get a box big enough to add features later if you feel the need.  I only fit pilot lights to stuff like this because it makes for speedy troubleshooting if something stops working on stage; handy but not essential.  My big line filter had a number of extras because it was designed to be used with portable generator power systems.

I don't know about the wire lead type but the spade connector type have the ground connected to the filter metal body, so just bolting it inside will ground the box.  I assume the wire lead type will also ground the metal case, but check it with your ohmmeter if you use this type.

I've never wired an American mains socket so I don't know if they are marked as Aussie ones are, but you first ohmmeter check is that the plug ground pin goes to the socket ground pin and die-cast box, that the power pins don't transpose between plug and socket; i.e. if you plug it into itself you should have three loops isolated from each other.

Enzo?
If you say theory and practice don't agree you haven't applied enough theory.

Kizzlecake

well,  its cheap enough to be worth trying thats for sure.  Thanks again

Anomaly

I've owned 8 Randall RG heads over the years and all of them have a little bit of idle hum to them, i even have a rg100ht with new filter caps and it still hums a tad with all the controls at zero. So this is just a effect of the circuit and can't be remedied, but if it is excessive then i'd recommend getting it looked at and maybe getting it re-capped? It should not be a loud noise, just a quiet idle hum... and when using the effects loop it can get pretty noisey, which is why i never use any effects in the loop of my current amp. I just using pedals up front... like my Maxon OD for a boost. Which is all it really needs. Great amps anyways.

vidmachine

Everytime I ever tried to use the effects send on my RG100ES, the target amp or power amp has always buzzed like a demon!  I do not understand how anyone can use it at all.  Contradicts every you've heard about Dime's setup, right?  Maybe I am missing something obvious? 

My RG100ES has recently started sounding loose in the bass end and sort of blah.  I put new filter caps in it and the humming at idle did drop by a noticeable amount.  But it just doesn't sound as good as it once did.  Someone suggested the output transistors? 

Any ideas what could cause the low end to start sounding flabby?

Thanks, gang.