Quote from: Enzo on December 05, 2016, 04:33:29 AMBut for a small one time set-up fee, I could get them with my brand on them.  So Enzo-cords, or Shiawassee cords, or even Jimi-Jam if I felt like it.

I still think Wangdoodle sounded pretty funny!

Here is a link lightly talking about something that might relate to those speakers.
http://forums.vintageamps.com/viewtopic.php?p=417370

From what I could gather is they are possibly made by RSC, Radio Speakers of Canada. Who knows?? Do you see an RSC stamp anywhere on them?

Also one mention of a Solec amp on DIY site.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/171776-solec-ic-46-japan.html

That's a nice looking cabinet with that amp! No-name speakers back in the day are probably better than many brand named types of today. Great post keep it up!!

Try disconnecting the speaker and measure the DC voltage reading on the speaker connections. Look to confirm a small 500mv to 1v on the output while metering it on power up. This will tell us if the noise is a DC offset on the output making noise. Sure this can be the amp working normally and as the pro's put it "The amp just wakes up stupidly".

So for that second or two the amps voltages are settling in and it is not perfect so it can make noises. I recently had a Fender amp that put out 750mv to 1v on power up which will then drop to 5mv after 2-3 seconds and it was not normal. However, tracking down the cause of the problem led to a tiny bit of shotgun part replacement, which we don't recommend. In my case I had suspicions that certain transistors were stressed in a failure of other transistors that I had already replaced. I WARN YOU THOUGH... that these types of symptoms will drive even the greatest techs crazy trying to trouble shoot the cause. In the end it may not be a repairable issue and the amp is actually functioning fine. I guess confirming Phatt's question is the best place to start.

I did not see a schematic posted here... I think this might be the one.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwih_J2mmKXQAhXmllQKHSMhAXgQFggyMAc&url=http%3A%2F%2Felektrotanya.com%2Frandall_rg100_g3_schematic.zip%2Fdownload.html&usg=AFQjCNFLuo2nozgGcq9gCiPLXNb5xJ31TQ&sig2=Pb-mkBb8IPkGwD29fSshLg&bvm=bv.138493631,d.cGw

Does the volume signal cut in and out only when it is being played loud or all the time?

A while back there was this thread on SSguitar.com. Unfortunately the OP disappeared from the thread and nothing came to light there...
http://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?topic=2829.0

How does the amp sound when you plug in headphones and play it that way? Enzo is right about it might only be a $2 part or cleaning the headphones jack. Actually all the advice given so far is correct and nobody here will agree with misleading advice. So you ask for help locating a PT? Well measure some voltages to test your theory of a bad transformer. PT's don't go weak and only just go bad, there is really no in between here. To offer advice to spec and select another PT we would want to know what B+ is on the amp. Hostility??  I don't see anywhere here that someone was being hostile with their advice. Straight to the point honest, but not hostile.

Quote from: Mangas on October 10, 2016, 02:48:30 AM
Rivera era Fender SS amps (Montreux, Stage Lead, Studio Lead). Nice clean and reverb.

Even the later 80's Japanese built versions of the Stage Leads are great too. Not much different from the US built one's really. The Fender Showman SS amp is like the Montreux amp on steroids. Great amps indeed!!

The Fender Princeton 112+ SS amps are great too. That falls into the you-name-it section that Juan mentioned.

There is a thread here with the exact same problem, replacing pots. The schematic was posted on that thread by Enzo and there is good info on the pots too.

http://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?topic=3132.0

I have had a few power cables where the neutral or hot wire had worn out from bending over the years. So sometimes the unit would power up fine and then it wouldn't. In that case you have to run continuity test on each wire of the power cable while bending it around to uncover the faulty wire. First thing first give it a good ole Enzo Whacking!!

Check some voltages on the amp to confirm what is missing. Do you have -/+23v rails? -/+15v rails missing? CR11 & CR12 are they good? I would not think that the mains power rectifier diodes are bad, since no fuse blew, but still check them. Best way for us to tell what is going on is some voltage checks. Also if the PT was responsible I would guess the fuse would have gone too.

I remember finding this website with that schematic posted when I was searching for Holmes amp info. Unfortunately, the attached PDF only show the web page layout and I do not see the image based schematics.

Here is the website link>>> http://www.harrisonholmes.com/html/schematic.html

I could look right at the pick in the schematic, it includes pictures, and I could read it right off the schematic too. Two 2200uf 63v axial caps.

So you swapped out two mosfets, upped the wattage on a resistor, and threw in 4 new ic's. That did not fix the problem? It would be best to pinpoint the fault by using proper troubleshooting techniques instead of just throwing parts at it on a hunch. At this point you might as well change the filter caps and see if anything changes. If you have a multimeter you can set it to AC volts and measure AC ripple that might be caused by bad filter caps. 120hz hum will be the symptom if you have a bad AC ripple.

Plz post the schematic for all to help.

Yeah both of those amps are great solid state amps. I would fix either of those amps up any day of the week. Also, you have great tech advice available to help you along online. As far as, is it worth the time and money to repair these amps....? That depends on how skilled you are at repair and what parts needs replacing. I, for one, started repairing amplifiers so they would not get tossed in the dump. So yes there are people who love these old amps and want to see them working again.