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Where to find 6000uF 50V replacement cap cans??

Started by RG100ESROX, October 13, 2024, 09:33:56 PM

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g1

Looks like you are almost there.  Just need a bit more current through the bias string which will bring the Q11 base voltage up a little.  It's around half a volt and should be around a volt.

Are you still on the variac and bulb?  Supply voltages should be around 40V and I think you are still around 30.  That may be the reason.
So get the AC line voltage up where it should be and see if you get any change with the bias trimmer.
If not, you can try changing that resistor that is in parallel with the trim pot. 
Schematic shows "47 to 100 ohms".  You have 47 there so you could try replacing with 100.

RG100ESROX

#121
Quote from: g1 on November 20, 2024, 09:23:35 PMLooks like you are almost there.  Just need a bit more current through the bias string which will bring the Q11 base voltage up a little.  It's around half a volt and should be around a volt.

Are you still on the variac and bulb?  Supply voltages should be around 40V and I think you are still around 30.  That may be the reason.

So get the AC line voltage up where it should be and see if you get any change with the bias trimmer.
If not, you can try changing that resistor that is in parallel with the trim pot. 

Schematic shows "47 to 100 ohms".  You have 47 there so you could try replacing with 100.

Yes. Still on the variac and current limiter. I know this will drop the voltage.

When I measure the voltage of Q12, the trim pot is at its lowest setting. Do you want me to max it out to see what the max voltage is on Q12? Because the voltage on Q12 is only about .-5V with the trim pot set to minimum. The negative voltage did increase as I turned the trim pot up.

I'll hold off on changing the resistor in parallel with the trim pot until after we see what happens after pushing the supply voltage up to where it needs to be.

Question; How much light bulb brightness is acceptable?? I'm only getting the voltage supply up to about 110VAC before the lightbulb starts glowing. It's really dim, but what's acceptable?? If this is acceptable, I will push the supply voltage up to the 120VAC that it should be.

Also, there is zero (0.0V) voltes across both of the .27R and .62R resistors. This can't be a good thing...?

Thanks!!
Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...

saturated

This has gotten way past my pay grade  :lmao: but seems like there is an open somewhere maybe go back and check anything that was installed/removed/replaced and or pinouts of said components (?)

Good luck guys  :dbtu:
I ask stupid questions
and make stupid mistakes

criticism, critique, derision, flaming, verbal abuse welcome

RG100ESROX

Quote from: saturated on November 21, 2024, 06:56:46 AMThis has gotten way past my pay grade  :lmao: but seems like there is an open somewhere maybe go back and check anything that was installed/removed/replaced and or pinouts of said components (?)

Good luck guys  :dbtu:


Thanks for your input. I would tend to agree with you, but I have checked continuity between components, and there seems to be connectivity between everything.

Thanks again.
Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...

g1

Yes, a dim bulb is ok.  There is a bit of current used to run the power supplies.  Bring it up to 120V.
I don't expect the Q12 base voltage to change much, as it can only go max approx. 0.7V difference from the center point (this is because of the forward biased B-E junction of Q12).
But Q11 base voltage should change more as you move the trimmer. 
Then, as the voltage difference between Q11 base and Q12 base increases, you should start seeing the output transistors start conducting, which will put some voltage across those .27 and .6R emitter resistors.

RG100ESROX

Quote from: g1 on November 21, 2024, 11:18:37 AMYes, a dim bulb is ok.  There is a bit of current used to run the power supplies.  Bring it up to 120V.
I don't expect the Q12 base voltage to change much, as it can only go max approx. 0.7V difference from the center point (this is because of the forward biased B-E junction of Q12).
But Q11 base voltage should change more as you move the trimmer. 
Then, as the voltage difference between Q11 base and Q12 base increases, you should start seeing the output transistors start conducting, which will put some voltage across those .27 and .6R emitter resistors.

Great!!!

I'll push it to a supply voltage of 120VAC at the on-off switch, and then measure the previous voltage points again.

I'll be back...
Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...

RG100ESROX

#126
Okay, voltage is at 120VAC

These voltages were recorded with the bias trim pot set to the 🕘 position. They did not increase any further past the 🕘 position.
Q12 = -.588V/-41.9V/-16.5mV
Q11 =  1.034V/41.9V/.447V
Q10 = 40.8V/1.026V/41.4V

Trim pot top lug = .477V
Bottom lug = 1.026V

Voltage drop 'across' these resistors
[  .27R  ] [  .27R  ]
 0.0V/0.0V  0.0V/0.0V
[  .62R  ] [  .62R  ]
 0.0V/0.0V  0.0V/0.0V

Voltage on the positive side with reference to chassis ground.
[  .27R  ]  [  .27R  ]
     -16.2MV       -41.5V
[  .62R  ]  [  .62R  ]
     -16.2mV.     -41.5V

Thoughts???


Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...

g1

At Q12, did you mean -16.5mV rather than V ?
If so, try doing the resistor swap at R51.

RG100ESROX

#128
Quote from: g1 on November 21, 2024, 04:02:40 PMAt Q12, did you mean -16.5mV rather than V ?
If so, try doing the resistor swap at R51.

Yes. My apologies...

Is this a good thing???

Also, the voltages on either side of the 47R resistor are 
        R51
--[    47R    ]--
.465V / 1.032V
Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...

g1

Yes that's a good thing.  Everything seems stable and approx. where it should be.
Try the resistor swap and see what it does for the voltage across those big emitter resistors.

RG100ESROX

#130
Quote from: g1 on November 21, 2024, 04:30:57 PMYes that's a good thing.  Everything seems stable and approx. where it should be.
Try the resistor swap and see what it does for the voltage across those big emitter resistors.

Okay. I changed the 47R to a 100R, and while I did see an increase in voltage on R60. It went from a reading of 0.0V to 0.1mV. That's all. .1mV.
Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...

g1

That is across the resistor (one probe to each end) ?
Did you try turning the trim post through it's full sweep?

RG100ESROX

Quote from: g1 on November 21, 2024, 05:41:01 PMThat is across the resistor (one probe to each end) ?
Did you try turning the trim post through it's full sweep?

That is correct. Black probe on negative side of both .27R resistors, red on positive side.

Yes. Full sweep of the trim pot.
Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...

g1

Measure the voltage at Q11 base, with trimmer fully CCW, then with trimmer full CW.
Then do same for Q12 base.

RG100ESROX

#134
Quote from: g1 on November 21, 2024, 07:46:10 PMMeasure the voltage at Q11 base, with trimmer fully CCW, then with trimmer full CW.
Then do same for Q12 base.

B of Q12 FCCW = -.580V
B of Q12 FCW = -.568V

B of Q11 FCCW = .637V
B of Q11 FCW = 1.508V
Guitarists spend half their lives tuning their guitars, and the other half playing out of tune...