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Author Topic: Danelectro Honeytone N-10 Schematic  (Read 6670 times)

blackcorvo

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Danelectro Honeytone N-10 Schematic
« on: June 07, 2015, 10:44:09 PM »
So, the other day I decided to open up my lovely Honeytone amp to do a couple mods. Added a speaker out jack and a rechargable battery pack to it.

In the middle of it, I noticed the resistors for the second op-amp had different values from the schematics I've seen online (1k/2k2 instead of 2x 33k), so I decided to correct that.
Before doing so, I looked up other sources to confirm the values were up-to-date and I had my confirmation here http://batterypoweredguitaramp.com/danelectro-honeytone-guitar-amplifier/.
But instead of just correcting the already drawn schematic, I said screw it and just drew the whole thing again.
I ommited the LED and On/Off switch for simplicity, as this is only a reference circuit.

Here's the schematic:


I'll be attaching the picture as well, just in case the source links for it get lost in time.

And in case anybody is curious about the mods, I have made a post on my tumblr about it
http://blackcorvo.tumblr.com/post/120898269985

And also a quick demo video of the finished product through a 10" speaker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KAEKuLByUc

I like this amp's circuit enough that I'm seriously considering cloning it, but using a TDA7240 for the power amp. Maybe when I get the materials for producing PCBs? We'll see.

MCM1910

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Re: Danelectro Honeytone N-10 Schematic
« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2015, 11:19:58 AM »
Thanks for posting this.  Are the recent Honeytones made with surface mount components?

blackcorvo

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Re: Danelectro Honeytone N-10 Schematic
« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2015, 12:20:08 PM »
Thanks for posting this.  Are the recent Honeytones made with surface mount components?

Yes, save from the electrolytic capacitors and the power amp I.C. everything is SMD.

blackcorvo

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Re: Danelectro Honeytone N-10 Schematic
« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2015, 12:50:15 AM »
Here's a service tip: If your version of this amp has a speaker marked "2W", NEVER crank it. You'll fry the speaker and take the power amp chip with it.

I did just that and ended up having to change the TDA7052, but I couldn't find the sufix-less version so I got the 7052-B.
To use that model of the chip in this amp, remove the 4K7 pull-down resistor on the chip's input in the circuit board, and add a 1M resistor in parallel with a 1uF to ground from pin 4.
I don't know if that'll work with the 7052-A, since I was unable to find it.

Also, make sure to get the magnet height of the substitue speaker you're ordering, and that it matches as close to the original as possible, or less (in case of an alnico one).
If it's too tall, it'll hit the "battery box" and you'll have to cut part of it to fit the speaker, which will make the battery impossible to fit! Not a good trade.

Hope this is helpful for the future!

mexicanyella

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Re: Danelectro Honeytone N-10 Schematic
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2015, 05:16:33 PM »
I've never played through a honeytone before, but I have to wonder how it'd sound as a line-level ouput device, driving a larger power amp and some big speakers...I had some fun doing before with some small practice amps, a rack power amp and Marshall 4 x 12 cabs. Might be something fun to try...rebuilding it as a line-out preamp kind of device.

blackcorvo

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Re: Danelectro Honeytone N-10 Schematic
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2015, 05:54:14 PM »
I've never played through a honeytone before, but I have to wonder how it'd sound as a line-level ouput device, driving a larger power amp and some big speakers...I had some fun doing before with some small practice amps, a rack power amp and Marshall 4 x 12 cabs. Might be something fun to try...rebuilding it as a line-out preamp kind of device.

I think the best way to do that would be to lift the cap right before the power-amp input, and add a switching jack that switches it back into the circuit when nothing is connected to it, so you're taking your output from the preamp only.
I wouldn't recommend trying to get a line out from the power amp, as it's a bridged circuit.

The amp by itself is fairly capable of driving large cabs. If you have a regulated 12v @ 1A adapter (I'm pretty sure you could use as low as 500mA, but 1A seems more common), that will squeeze about 2w out of this unit, as long as you keep the load at 8 ohms. That's pretty decently loud for home and recording.

 

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