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Author Topic: filter cap replacement  (Read 5949 times)


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Re: filter cap replacement
« Reply #15 on: April 01, 2013, 10:35:19 PM »
Good to hear you are winning on the amp.   :dbtu:

That is why "hum-buckers".

First thing to check is that the grounding wire in the cavity hasn't broken off (or whatever) and has continuity to the strings etc., (measure resistance between socket sleeve and strings/tail, should be close to zero).

A popular treatment for buzzy guitars is to fully line the wiring cavities with copper flashing or similar, connected to guitar ground.

{I'm reminded of a woman who brought in her "valve" Gibson amp for service.  Look inside - no valves.

"This isn't a valve amp; it's solid state"

"Are you sure?"

Am I WUT???

Full 'orrible saga here.}
If you say theory and practice don't agree you haven't applied enough theory.


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Re: filter cap replacement
« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2013, 06:22:30 AM »
Just a little practical info on 6L6's if you want the to last you don't bias them to the datasheet's rating , if biased beyond 70% of max value you will be burning up expensive tube regularlly . 2 6L6 tubes cannot produce over 60 watts so logically 4 6L6 tubes cannot produce over 120 watts . Also if you pump over 600 volts to these tubes kiss them puppies goodbye.

P.S. on a telecaster shielded cable is your friend.