Solid State Guitar Amp Forum | DIY Guitar Amplifiers

Quote from: Pepe on April 11, 2021, 12:49:21 PM

I tried the cable jump method and it seems to work okay, channel a is good and channel b seems a little off but is doable. What causes this issue?

I assume this means you are placing a cable connecting the effects loop in and outs. Dirt, corrosion and worn out metal switching contacts are all possible reasons for the cutting out. But I don't see effects loop on the schematic so I am not sure if this is what you meant.

Yeah that's pretty much what I did

If the audio cuts out like clock work then it is always possible there is a cold solder joint. I would then input a test signal into the amp and when it cuts out I would scope or trace the signal in the amp. I would confirm preamp and power amp voltage while it is working and after it cuts out.

It's not always on time, but it happens within that time frame. I'll try that out and see what pops up.

Anyone got the schematic for the new(er) JC-40 with 2x10” speakers? I am aware of the awesome JC-120 ultimate thread on this forum and also found the JC-50 schematics here as well. But now specifically seeking the JC-40.

Thanks,

Will

I tried the cable jump method and it seems to work okay, channel a is good and channel b seems a little off but is doable. What causes this issue?

I assume this means you are placing a cable connecting the effects loop in and outs. Dirt, corrosion and worn out metal switching contacts are all possible reasons for the cutting out. But I don't see effects loop on the schematic so I am not sure if this is what you meant.

If the audio cuts out like clock work then it is always possible there is a cold solder joint. I would then input a test signal into the amp and when it cuts out I would scope or trace the signal in the amp. I would confirm preamp and power amp voltage while it is working and after it cuts out.

Thanks for purchasing your Honey Amp!  Time to put it together and start making music!

None of the parts in your kit will be labeled to match component numbers in the schematic.  IE, a capacitor won't be labeled "C1."  This means that you need to know how to read component values.  Luckily, this isn't difficult and there are a lot of resources to help you along the way.

AMZ's Capacitor Calculator: http://www.muzique.com/schem/caps.htm
Capacitors have varying types of labels on them.  Electrolytic capacitors (they look like tiny soda cans) are usually labeled with plain text that will tell you the size and maximum voltage of the capacitor (10uF / 63v etc).  Pretty much all other capacitors use a code.  To break this down, use the link above.

Resistor Calculator: https://www.resistor-calculator.com/
Resistors don't typically have values printed in numbers on them.  Instead, resistors use color bands.
 Thankfully there are charts, graphs, and calculators online available to help you decode this color band system - I like this one for it's simplicity.  It's easy to use, and it makes it easy to start learning how the color codes work so they make sense.

The rest should be pretty straight forward by following the silk screening on the PCB.  IE - it shows the direction to put the IC in, same with transistor and even diodes.

Now that you have identified your components, it's time to start soldering.

Always start with the shortest objects first.  When I say this, I mean the components that are the closest to the board.  In the case of the Honey Amp, it works well to start with the 1n4148 diode and resistors.  Put them in place, bend the leads slightly and then turn the board over.  Solder them on and then clip the remaining lead.  Continue on until you have installed the tallest component.  Now you are ready for off-board wiring.