Inexperience does not always equal stupidity.  Not only is this a TRS jack, but has 2 internal switches (normally closed), one on the tip, one on the ring.  Thus the 5 pins.
The schematic representation for that jack would be diagram XII on the attached page.
And they get much more complicated than that.  Switchcraft has a whole other page of more complicated type jacks, this is the "simple" page. 

  Those jack switches look to be bent in a way that prevents the switching function to work properly.

  Also, there may be a short to ground from where ever those screws connect to, that's why the picture will help.

Can you post a pic of the underside of the board in the power transistor area?

  Some amps are picky about only using 1458 in certain positions, many are not.
I think this is one of the fussy ones.  (along with the input IC on some of the smaller Marshall amps)

Quote from: Hawk on August 06, 2015, 03:36:59 PM
I should test to make sure the collector isn't grounded out to the heat sink

Yes

schematic attached. 
There are 2 very common mods to darken these up a bit.
1)  If it doesn't have the bright switch, clip out the cap across the volume control.
2)  There is a "presence" cap in the PI circuit.  In the attached version, it is C11 in the PI area.  Remove it.
  Those are 2 quick easy things to try.

  The quote about the bulb wattage said to use the wattage of the output power, not the input from the AC line (120V).  The 450W is input wattage, the actual amp power output is much less, I think around 150W ?
If the bulb lights up (more than dim), then there is a problem.  That is why the voltages are so low.
  Check for low resistances across the supply rails, which are usually caused by shorted power transistors or rectifier diodes.

  Thanks for the update Roly. 
Your amazing contributions here and at ozvalveamps are greatly appreciated.
At times in my life, due to exceptional circumstances, time has passed in a non-linear manner for me.  It doesn't stop, but slows down in a way that what I can accomplish in the allotted time seems miraculous. 
  I can only hope for the same for you, and wish you all the best.

inkaholic85, I've sent the original and modified drawings, please let us know how it works out.

It's not a simple circuit.  Apparently, other 4 button fender footswitches will not work with this model, however, I think they could be modified to work.  That might be easier than building from scratch.
Attached are schematics for the footswitch and also for the amp itself.

  The statement that you have seen such a cap can is perfectly acceptable.
What was not acceptable was the statement that in this particular cap can, he could not disable part of it and use the rest because it might have a coil in there.

Quote from: LateDev on July 03, 2015, 12:45:24 PM

QuoteA shorted Q13 could be C-E, so it would not necessarily affect the bias.

Actually it would be a miracle if it did not effect the base as the emitter and collector is physically separated by the base on a bipolar transistor, unlike an FET which you may be getting confused with.

No I'm not getting it confused with anything  .  We often see C-E shorts in power transistors yet the base is shorted to neither C or E.
But this is aside from the point, you were originally speaking of it as a driver.  In which case a C-E short would have affected the bias.  So no need to argue a point you never originally intended, right?

Quote from: LateDev on July 03, 2015, 12:45:24 PMNever assume you can run the amp with one O/P transistor removed, as this could blow the rest. If you need to know why, just ask.

Ok, I'm asking.  No one said to run an amp with one O/P transistor removed.  What was said was that when there are multiple pairs, extra pairs can be removed, for test purposes at lower power levels.  We do this all the time in the repair world.  You saw the caution about power levels when doing this?

  Please keep in mind that this is a guitar amp forum, and we speak in that context here.
  No one has ever seen a cap can with built in coil in any amp similar to the one in question.  So we don't talk about it as an option because of the context.
  To speak of esoterica it should to be mentioned as such.

Quote from: Hawk on July 03, 2015, 10:20:51 AM
Re: CR9 and CR10. Other diodes that I tested in circuit test normal using the diode checker function on my meter. But with these two, in circuit, I get a read of .553v in one direction and .555v in the other direction.

Look at them closely, they are parallel but opposite polarity.  So either way you connect your meter, one of them is forward biased and gives you a reading.  This is normal.