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Messages - joecool85

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Abominable Pedals, God City, Chase Bliss Audio, and Cooper FX are some of the latest companies to start actively promoting the end of racism.  I hope that this continues and eventually gets to the point where it isn't necessary because racism dies out.  Call me a dreamer, but I'm not the only one.

Guitar News / Re: DryBell releases "The Engine" - $299 preamp pedal
« on: June 05, 2020, 09:10:47 AM »
I quote the vid at 7.18

"So there you have it folks the Engine truely evokes the feel and tone of those classic Amps."

Meanwhile using a REAL JMP 50Watt Marshall. Durh???? what a load of crap :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Which is much the same as promoting A Boss fender 64 reverb pedal sounding like a real 64 reverb Amp.
And demonstrating it through a,,, real 64 Fender amp.
Yeah right,,,,, And I can make a  banana flavor taste like a real banana just buy using a real banana.  :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

This crap goes on all the time on these pedal demos,,
The REAL ACID test is how good some wizz bag pedal pulls off great tone through a small bedroom amp. 8|

Don't get me wrong the pedal sounds good but at least test it through some basic amps as well as through the obvious Big name Valve gear.
That would give punters a much more realistic impression of how well the pedal will suit their setup.
For every Big name Valve amp Owner there would be 10~100 times more basic amp owners out there.
Which equates to far greater profit if they had a even half a brain. :loco

For those that don't know, the touch response mentioned in the vid has more to do with the Valve amps used than the pedal.
The Sustain at 1.24 is simply the Valve amp feed back which has little to do with the pedal. Any basic pedal with boost up will cause a valve amp to feedback like that.
Again this has little to do with how good the pedal works. The wank factor is in a lot of these demos and it's time the young ones woke up to the hype.
Rant over,, Phil.

I honestly overlook most of this now because it seems all major players do this game.  You are right though, it would be interesting to see what this sounds like through a simple Fender Frontman, Marshall MG, Vox Pathfinder etc.  My guess, it'd sound okay.  Which is basically what I thought during the video, it sounds good, but not anything that blew me away.  Everyone has their thing though, maybe this is it for some?

Guitar News / DryBell releases "The Engine" - $299 preamp pedal
« on: June 04, 2020, 01:47:43 PM »
DryBell has announced it's newest pedal, The Engine.  Selling for $299, this is a preamp pedal "for all those that love 1960's style non-master volume amps."  The concept sounds good, and the clips sound pretty good.  But it seems a convoluted way to get the sounds they are shooting for.  There are two preamps on board, A and B.  You can control either one, or put them together with A or B coming first in the signal chain.  They both have tone controls but not your typical TMB stack.  Preamp A has Level, Gain, Tone, and Shape.  Preamp B has Level, Range, Low, and High.

Perfect?  Too complicated?  What's your take?

That Klick Knob has released their eponymous product.  For $20.99 you can get a knob that you can "set."  The short of it is that you can pull it up and turn as per normal, or push it in and have a settable detent to your favorite position.  Neat idea, but not sure how successful this will be.  First, it only comes in "strat style" knobs.  Second, is this even an issue?  Many guitarists I know just run their guitar wide open.  The ones that don't, change settings on the fly regularly and don't have a "sweet spot" necessarily.  Still, A+ for innovation, it's definitely something I've never seen before!

What do you guys think?

The Newcomer's Forum / Re: Tda ICs Pentawatt PCB
« on: May 29, 2020, 01:07:58 PM »
Thanks a lot...  :tu: About the heatsinks, do you think any piece/sheet of metal will do the job, or it is worth to use a proper one. Aluminum or denser... ?

Aluminum is the typical go-to for heatsinks.  Also, I hit edit by accident on your post, it's been a long day.  But I didn't actually edit the post.

Schematics and Layouts / Re: Teisco CheckMate 22 schematic
« on: May 27, 2020, 08:40:03 AM »
Bumping this cuz we seem to have reached the limitation of the tiny output transistors.  ::)

The new 18VAC transformer and resulting 25VDC rail is just a bit too much for them.  ;)
Playing the amp for more than 30 minutes at full volume causes the output transistors to go into thermal overload.

At less than full volume I have not reached the limit...
but this thing sounds so darned good at full.  8)

So options are...

1. Better heatsinking on the output transistors
2. Better (higher rated) transistors and better heat sinking.

I'm leaning toward option 2 but might try cobbling up a better heat sink for the originals.

I do have a couple of NOS T0-3 PNP Germanium transistors looking for a home...  ;)

I'm always a fan of giant heat sinks:

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Frontman 212R
« on: May 22, 2020, 09:19:36 PM »
Was the switch you replaced the overdrive switch?  It seems that is the issue here.

Obviously the top OD input SKT has failed and ideally you need to replace that socket but as it might be hard to source the exact part then here is an option using only one input socket,, probably similar to what *Joe* mentioned.
Now as it's possible the input for Supercube 100 might be different to the cube 60 schem I'm working from I can't be sure this would work so you will have to tread careful and double check.
This requires an N/C switched Socket and a DPDT switch to work.
N/C means Normally Closed,, opens when you insert.

As to your Q re those ribbon wires, you can just gently use your fingernails to split them, might have to nic between them to get it started but they should seperate fairly easy.
If you need more length then use a piece of strip board and then add more wires.
With out a pic of how the ribbon connects to PCB it's hard to give advice.
Hope it helps, Phil.

Looks good to me, Phil.  Your drawing adds in the switched jack so that when nothing at all is plugged in, both inputs are grounded.  Nice touch.

To niftyprose, the DPDT Phil shows does *not* need any connections between the top pins on left and right.  What he is showing is the switch in the overdrive position.  Also remember that wires traces that cross don't connect unless there is a filled black circle connecting them where they meet.

Good luck!

Joe, step back and look again.  That line "connecting" 1,2,3,4,5 and has the dashes in it is not a trace, it is the border of the board.  It is not a conductor.

Ignore the dotted line, and reread phatt's description.

If you follow the dotted line around it would also"short" all three legs of Q11, or whatever transistor is at pins 6,7,8.  Clearly it is not a circuit trace.

Wow, very poorly drawn indeed.  But you are right, definitely a PCB edge.  Confusing since each pin label has a circle, typically representative of a node/connection.

The good news, my plan still works exactly as described in my previous post  :dbtu:

In looking at the schematic again, it is either wrong, or very poorly drawn.  It shows on the Normal circuit that the tip goes to ground (tip goes to pin 2, pin 2 is tied with 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and sent to ground right next to pin 3.  There are some dashes in this line connecting them, which may indicate that under curtain circumstance (unplugged lead etc) they are not all connected.  Regardless, as drawn I don't see how the Normal channel could pass signal at all since it is sent straight to ground.  I think that this may look more complicated than it is.

Here is my proposed solution:

Use a mono jack.  Send sleeve to ground.  Send tip to DPDT switch.  On this switch it will either send it to R1 for Overdrive or pin 2 (I think) for the Normal channel.  On the other side of the DPDT you can ground out the opposing channel.  IE: If switched to Overdrive, send Normal channel's input to ground via 270k resistor (R101 on schematic).  If switched to Normal, send Overdrive channel input to ground (R1).

For the record, I prefer: Op-amp clean boost to a tight (2-pole) hi-pass at about 100Hz into a chain of low-gain MOSFET inverters, just about any FMV tone control circuit, (pre-gain for clean channels, post gain for dirt), make-up gain and single pole low-pass at ~5-7kHz depending on the circuit

That's also close to what I like.  I've found that I like to have a hi-pass set to around 80hz running into most any clean boost (op-amp or BJT typically) into a 2 band Vox or 3 band FMV tone control (always post gain), some make-up gain if the power amp doesn't like the amount coming out of the preamp, and then a low pass set to around 10-12khz.  For built-in dirt I like to use back to back red LEDs, though my 5th Gear OD uses a red LED and 1n914/1n4148.

Also, I'm currently on a single channel kick.  I really enjoy being able to turn back the gain and have a nice crystal clear clean.  Turn it up a little for a slightly edgy/jangly voicing, or wind it up for anywhere between classic rock and just below 80's metal.  For further gain I'm fine running a pedal.

Everyone has their thing, that's for sure!

Hi All,

Just to let you know, it was the earth connection back to the board.

Some of the cables became disconnected. I sorted this and now it plays!

Heck it gets LOUD!

Thanks for all your help.

Glad to hear you got it sorted!  Seems like it almost always ends up being a simple thing in the end.   :dbtu:

Simple jack failure.  It doesn't need to be modified, it isn't like the jack breaks once a month.  Just fix it and it will continue on.

True, but fixing it as per OEM would be a lot more (unnecessary) work as compared to my suggestion.

The Newcomer's Forum / Re: Orange Crush 12 repair
« on: May 19, 2020, 01:17:45 PM »
Thanks for the tip. I now have some lead solder and it is indeed easier to use.

I decided to use wire links instead of repairing the broken traces and have good connections now. I am left with 2 issues, which I can live with but would be nice to fix if possible. One is that there's still quite a lot of hiss.  Also the overdrive still goes crazy from about half way up, after which I get a very loud low frequency buzz.  While half way is more than enough overdrive for me most of the time,  theres obviously still something wrong.
The pot is new, works smoothly as measures correctly (250K linear). All pots have been cleaned with contact cleaner. Could this point to the opamp or the clipping diodes?

Sent from my Acer Chromebook R13 (CB5-312T) using Tapatalk

Sounds like poor grounding to me.  Alternatively, possibly a short between traces as this can cause the gain issue you are having.

Looks to me like a common TRS with cutouts.  Tip with cutout, ring with cutout, ground?sleeve.  Five terminals.

This was my thought as well.  I do agree with Phil though that matching it on the old PCB could be difficult as the pinout seems odd.  But point to point wiring on it should be straight forward enough.  Between a multimeter and spending some time tracing where the PCB connects which pin to what, you should be able to figure it out.

Does anyone have a schematic for this amp?  That could help as well.

Not sure how I missed Phil's clipout of the model 60 schematic.  Assuming this is similar to the 100, I think point to point would be super easy.  Basically on the switched jack it simply grounds itself out when unplugged.  Also, I would change it and just use one jack.  The only difference is that one jack goes straight in and one goes through a 270k resistor.  Simply use a single jack that goes through a 270k resistor.  Then use a spst switch to bypass the resistor.  Put the switch in the hole for one of the inputs.  Done.  More robust, no stupid switching jacks to deal with, and an easily switchable boost circuit instead of swapping your cable to a different jack.

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