Well thanks for your help g1. Hmmm I'm pretty sure it wasn't a typo (I guess that means typing error?) So I will check those voltages again. Very strange.

It's all gone quiet!

Right g1, I've took some more measurements and here they are all VDC
Q6 B=-58 C= +58 E = -58
Q7 B=-58 C=-58 E= -58
OUTPUTS
Q1 C=+59 B=-58 E=+58
Q2 C=-58 B=-58 E=-58.
I also checked the other transistors
Q1 B= -10(this was falling with time), C=+59 E=-2(steady).
Q2 B=+59 C=-58 E=+59
Q3 B+59 C=+59 E=+59
Q4 B=-57 C=-58 E=-58
Q5 B-57C-58 E=58
Also when I touch red lead to Q6 C something smoked around q1,q3,q2,c6 area but was hard to see what component as didn't smoke after that.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Sorry I forgot to check if it was - or + volts, I think they were all plus but I will check in a mo.

Ok I have read the voltages. Let me just point out there are two different sets of Q1 and Q2 , one set are on the board, and one set are the output transistors and are off board. I put the black lead of multimeter to ground and red lead at the Base, Collector and Emmitor at Q6,7 and Q1,2 (that is the output Q1,2), and all readings are the same at 60vdc. I then put the red lead to Q2 Collector on the board and suddenly R32 burned up and smoked. ?

Ok g1, will do.

Right then, I 've found the short causing the fuses to blow, it was R11 and R13 were shorting where they had been badly soldered.After rectifying this  I Tried the lamp limiter test and this time the bulb flickered for couple of seconds and went out, so all good there. I then turned on full power and no blowing fuses  :tu:. However I have full rail voltage at the output, that's 60vdc. Any ideas please?

Cool! Thankyou Enzo, that was a bit of a confidence boost, and a clue I think. which are both rather needed in this case  . I will get to the bottom of this fault if it's the last bloody thing I do.  :duh

You are a top man Phil, and that was some really useful info, thankyou. Yes, funny enough, most amps I've worked on successfully have been Valves, as I love the old valve amps. I'm not so clued up on ss so that is a good explanation for me. When I found those dodgy components, I presumed I had found the fault, I guessed one had failed due to just old age and then took the others out, but clearly there is another problem. I really do appreciate your help Phil, so please keep it coming. Also, sorry about the delays in some of my replies, I am rather busy at mo, but really do want to get this thing back up and running again.

Okey doke phil, will do.Thanks for your advice. Although I wouldn't say I've just shot gunned a load of components. I did actually use a structure as I always have when I've successfully fixed other amps. I always first check the power supply and then the signal chain. But like I say this just instantly blows fuses so I first checked the obvious and took it from there, and then discovered all the blown components listed earlier, so replaced them. I don't really see what I've done wrong there, or what I could've done differently?

I still have the same problem folks. Any ideas at all please?

Thanks Phil, I will defo check that link out when I've got time.

Wow! Good advice Phil, I will certainly do that as I do struggle and get lost at the mo. I do have an NC in electronics, but that is only the basics really. But I do have a massive appetite to learn. Infact most of my learning has came from books and the internet, so I will certainly take on board what you've said. Thanks.
PS. I will try toput some photos on later.

Thanks for your reply Phil. I will check those traces on the board again against the schematic and make sure everything is as it should be, I may have followed them wrong. Also thanks for explaining what each of those resistors do especially the R31 as I was wondering what that S stood for. I will have a good look at it in a couple of hours time.

Well I've done all I said above and no traces are touching each other now. So I tested it with the lamp limiter and the bulb lit up Once again I'm stumped! Can someone give me any ideas? Those two traces I was talking about in my previous reply are now getting a 33ohm resistance across them so no longer directly shorting together but are connected some how, does that seem right?