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Messages - ToadMeister

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As far as I know so far, (going to recheck it) I tested 0V going into the light side of the LDR, but, as you suggest I should check the LDR itself.
I'll apply the required voltage and see if the photo-cell responds.
I'll check voltages elsewhere too

Any updates and I will post it on my other thread on this topic.


A red + and a black - alligator clip connected through a wire lead to another red and black alligator clip.
Basically like micro-booster cables.
Free up hands testing continuity, bypass things, etc.

Sooooper useful.

I don't know where mine came from, I must assume the alligator clip gods sent it to me.
Either that or it was those damn elves that leave their beer cans all over the place here, they're drinking my beer and leaving their (my) cans EVERYWHERE!!!!
You little men can't touch those cans!
Ever since I caught on to them I noticed they left me a can on the floor, a FULL one!
I'd have to assume that because they gave those test leads to me, I'd have to feed them copious quantities of my barley-aide....FOREVER?!?!
I need a beer......

Enzo, did as you suggested, still didn't work....BUT, on a whim bypassed C43 with my own 3.3uf cap and then Reverb-verb-erb!

I did solder on 2 x 1uf 63V caps, ain't hurtin nothin' probably an improvement, I don't really know.

I would like to thank you (Enzo) and phatt for all your pointers.

Now to figure out the no tremolo issue.

I have some 63v 1uf caps. (all caps are 100v at least anyway in the schem. But there is only 40 volts in that part anyway.)
Tired now and trying to figure parallel or series caps, i know the rules for batteries, series would add, parallel would average I suppose.
I have to go to bed.
Look into it tomorrow.

Been tracing through for bad connections, so far everything is good.

But I am wondering about one peculiar capacitor, not that it's a bad one, but the wrong one?

C42  in the schematic calls for a 2.2 the one in my PCB is a 0.22 non-polar red chiclet.
wima mks 0.22 100-12
A bit underpowered? Makes me wonder if it's an original part?

Any opinions from ye masters?

Holy crap I ramble on, don't I?
It all started, way back in the day when I had difficulty reading and writing, then I discovered comic books an................

Just kidding, reverb tank, CONFIRMED OK!
Loud and clear out the speaker.

Heathkit is once again alive! The company has resurrected itself and is once again in business in California, USA. Please see their new website for more information and to see what kits are now available.

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Caps Pulling up Skirts
« on: May 10, 2017, 07:58:43 PM »
It doesn't really look serious, other than the plastic skin has moved slightly on a few of them..

I guess I got the tail end of the Heathkit era.
Was there anything electronic that heathkit did not provide a kit for?

I'd go back in time just to get heathkit stuff.

Amplifier Discussion / Re: Caps Pulling up Skirts
« on: May 10, 2017, 10:01:21 AM »
Was thinking just that, but duty, the cruel master beckons. (have to go to work shortly)

Will try to do that later after work if I can find my card reader.
(found it)

Amplifier Discussion / Caps Pulling up Skirts
« on: May 10, 2017, 09:11:23 AM »
Oh these axial ladies, always laying on their side.

Do I have a couple hot ones?

I have a few smaller size capacitors in my ~40yr old amp and the problem with them is the lamination, or plastic skirt on them appears to have slid down by a few mm's.
Almost the appearance on one end like puckering up lips, with a raised skirt on the other end.

These caps seem bad, but then again, it's only a tease.

Anyone familiar with this?

What a coincidence, I was just doing a search on touching a battery to the leads to the tank the other day and didn't find much at all, but I figured I already am throwing out enough questions to you guys, so I'll ask about it later.
(Does anyone get annoyed when you search for amp problems and all you find is FENDER info? Nothing against Fender, I have a 25w Bass amp that sounds real nice, 'Rumble 25' )

My reasoning was, that if it wants V, I'll give it V, but of course I forgot completely, it's just hard getting motivated after work, and when I do, I go to bed too late because I hate to put something down when I start and time flies.

So thanks for confirming that phatt, I'll try that tonight then.

Schematics and Layouts / Re: Randall Commander 1 (rg120-115)
« on: May 10, 2017, 02:12:52 AM »
Working on a better PCB schematic, may as well, since I'm probing continuity.
Trying to label components, and add lines, colour schemes.

Will I finish, probably not, should just lift the board, flip it, check for bad solders, take a pic, flip the pic, and draw components on the pic?
I really don't want to lift the board, then I will worry about stressing other wires, and break solders.
I'll just keep probing, it just helps to know where to go, luckily with a flashlight a lot of the copper foil lines are easy to see.

By the time I fix this rig, I'll probably be able to build my own amp.

Going to do some major probing on my days off.

Schematics and Layouts / Re: Randall Commander 1 (rg120-115)
« on: May 08, 2017, 08:46:52 PM »
I took the original pic (would be nice if this person who took the pic could scan a better copy, but this was a pic just to say, "I got this with it")
Then I GIMP'ed it as well.
It was the best I could polish this turd within my time constraints.
A lot of noise in my 'enhancement', but maybe it will speed up continuity testing.

If someone can provide a better copy, it would be greatly appreciated if you could post it here.
PS Is that a pelican in the upper middle?

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