I have a problem with my 2 Warheads in that the effects circuit gives me trouble. Firstly, the effects LED in the footswitch burns out. Then the effects circuit stops working altogether. Does anybody have an idea of what causes that?

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I'm guessing your output is good. Try maybe something in the power section?

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Thanks.

I was wondering because I use channel 1 for my rhythm channel and channel 2 I use for my lead channel. I like allot of gain because I use allot of harmonics in my playing and the extra gain helps to make it easier to do with better sustain with more gain. I don't want it muddy though. My style is similar to Dimebag Darrell 's, George Lynch, CC Deville, Reb Beach, and Bill Leverty in that I use long natural harmonics.

Anybody? 

Hey. I gave up on the Randall for a while. I replaced the regulators and output transistors and it  kinda worked for a bit in that it had a hum going through it for a bit but it never passed a signal. I'm gonna start working on it again soon I just got aggravated with it. Also I had a couple circuit tracks that lifted and I think some of the through the board hole taps came out. Ugh! xP

Nice. Is there anything I can do with the OD1 channel to get more gain out of it without changing the amp voicing?

Oh. The A1M is a variable resistor? A 1 Meg? Perhaps for the OD1 circuit? VR1? I'm sorry. I'm trying. Lol.  :dbtu:

Cool. I noticed the OD1 circuit has an A200k pot (VR1) and it has less gain than OD2. How does that work when I replace the A50k pot with a A250K pot  (VR3)? What value would I replace VR1 with to get it hotter? I'm trying to understand how that affects the gain structure. Ultimately I'd like to end up with an OD1 channel I can more easily get better pinch and natural harmonics and an OD2 make it my lead channel where the harmonics are almost effortless. I don't want to introduce allot of noise into the amp though. I looked and couldn't find A1M.

I'm just trying to figure out how I could get more gain to hit the distortion circuits of the amp. I don't know if it can be done but maybe someone who knows how to read the schematic better than me could give me some pointers. I'm attaching the schematic to my reply.  8|

I looked more closely at the volume pot and it appears to be a linear pot. It says B100k. I never did like the way the volume went from 0 to 4 abruptly when was working right. I think an audio pot will fix that but I don't know what it'll do to the tone. Right now the tone at below 2 sucks but at almost 2 and greater it's awesome. I hope it fixes that too. What do y'all think?

Ok. I took my amp apart and was surprised to find a dual rotary split shaft 100k potentiometer made by Alpha. I couldn't tell if it was an audio taper or linear but the one I ordered was an audio taper. I ordered one off of Mouser but they only have the "D" shaft. I found one on ebay that said it was made by Alpha but it looks a little different than the one in my amp. The original one has a full Metal casing with the word Alpha stamped on it then the value. I was afraid the one from Mouser I ordered wouldn't work with the original volume knob so I turned to Ebay. I ordered ones on there under the description "3 pcs Alpha 100KA / A100K Dual Audio Pot Potentiometer 15mm 1/4W Volume Control". I added a picture of it. I hope it shows up. Do y'all think I did right by my amp? Thanks.  :dbtu:

Sorry y'all.  My phone died and I had to get another one.  This is awesome!  I'll check it ASAP.  I had a 300 ohm resistor and it looks like it calls for a 330 ohm.  Is that enough to make it act like it is or should I be looking elsewhere still?  Btw it sucked being away that long.  Lol.  May God bless each one of you.

And I powered it up when I measured it.

Lol. I'll check it asap. I have a dentist appointment this evening so it may not be until tomorrow when I get to it. Drip.....Drip.....Drip :duh