Hi Joe,
         Yes I did both, simmed it and bread boarded it.
has a nice peak at 1kHz and rolls off the treble early, which does tend to deliver the more classic tone shape.

Impossible to get any cleanish rattle even with guitar Volume rolled back, it's all crunch so I played around with the values.

The low freq is fat due to C4/C5 but still does not fart out like some circuits do so that's nice but does make it a lot harder to make it dynamic.
Larger values for R6/R7 will make it softer/smoother but that is why I breadboard things ,,so one can find these little tricks to a given circuit.
Sadly Simms don't tell you how it will sound,, dratt!

If you don't need the clean then just delete the switching and parts involved.

I ran it from a split 6-0-6 VDC battery pack but should work the same with
a 9V Batt.
I 've never found there to be massive difference in swapping opamps,, I tend to use whatever is in my draw at the time.
Depends what the circuit does. With simple circuits like this I doubt you will hear big changes.  :tu:

Hey DJ Phil,
                Far from scrambled mate,, a darn fine explanation of the situation. :tu:

My concern is the preamp  It looks a little suspect?
If time permits I might set it up again and try a shootout between my setup.
I've never been able to get the noise down enough when using Fets like this.
Hey that could be just me missing something? :lmao:
Phil.

Hi Joe,
        Tested it and it does the job well. :tu:

Way to fuzzed up for my style so I made a few alterations to make it a little more touch responsive. See Circuit.
Did not like the big difference in freq response between the clean and drive so I added a 500p cap across the clean.

I did not bother testing the tone section as I have my *PhAbbTone unit* which is darn hard to beat.

So yes it could work as a pedal if you change it to a single supply and add a reference voltage.

BTW, in my experience hanging a tone control off the end of these circuits never seems to work well.
I have had far more success with tone *In front*. Just a thought.
Cheers, Phil.

Hi kin0,
            I'm not the expert with this LM386 chip but experience tells me most 1 or 2 watts chips Amps are not likely to have a clean sound no matter what preamp you insert in front.

You may need a 10 watt poweramp before you get a useable clean sound.
Phil.

Yes Joe,
            The second stage is an inverting config,, so input imp is expecting a low signal from preceding stage.
By deleting the first hi imp stage you upset the balance,,,Still works but not as good.

I just did some simulations of the first 2 stages and it certainly has a big hump at 1kHz so it will be a smooth OD sound as the high freq are surpressed giving the classic warm tone.

Sw1A is a bit confusing so I might BBoard test it and see how it works in real life.
Cheers Phil.

Phil.

Hi kin0,
        Judging by the comments ,,you are likely out of your depth.
You might be far better served by building the ESP preamp and running the other circuit as a pedal.

The Vellerman power chip kit is only a small wattage unit and the complexity of the preamp setup you wish to design is overkill for such a small Poweramp.
If you wish to mix and match circuits DON"T go buying PCB's and think you can swap a few things and have it magically work first go.

If this is your aim then wether you know it or not you entering the world of *design* and that can test the patience of even the most hardend electronics freaks.
Sadly this modern SS PCB world might look easy to hot wire some cheap circuits and achieve tone heaven but,,,,,

30 years ago I was asking the same Q's as you have here.
In 30 years of fiddling with stuff I've only had about 4 success stories. Needless to say
I now have a shed full of DUD circuits. What is not used as spare parts will one day become landfill.
Take my word for it (my shed is proof) it is not as simple as it seems.

Rod E has gone to considerable effort to make the circuit work and the average joe will waste lots of solder to even come close to building a circuit as good as His.
Yes it's still not "the perfect" SS Amp but in your situation build the ESP As shown **FIRST**
Then as you learn more you can move on to the bigger more complex side of Audio circuits.
ESP circuit will be a good workhorse Amp that will run reliably and give no grief if built well.

If you are serious about designing your own stuff then go purchase a bread board and some jumper wires as these will save 100's of hours of wasted time trying to refine circuits.

I still use my BBoards,, when I get an idea I just whip up a quick circuit and test it out.
If I like it **Only Then** Do you start to plan for PCB's and other stuff.

If you want a good circuit don't take shortcuts.

The only short-cut worth taking is if someone has built Exactly what you want and has at least one working circuit,, preferably a lot more.
Then you might take a chance.

meantime Read Teemu's PDF Book on SS Amps,,, download from this site ,,,an REeeeAD.
Cheers, Phil.

Hi Autir,
           At a guess try inserting the Cap *After* the pot. :tu:
Phil.

Quote from: J M Fahey on November 15, 2010, 09:06:19 AM

QuoteYep those Fendurh tecks will never get a job at NASA.

Or maybe they were fired from Nasa after that exploding Shuttle launcher. :trouble

Humm? Now there is a new idea for a stomp pedal.
Exploding *guitar player* launcher.

You only get to use it once 0:)
Phil.

Hi Tom,  Only the Bass control can make use of 500k

And even that comes with a  BUT,,,,, and it's a big one.

The 500k **LOG** pot you can buy off the shelf at electronics warehouse stores is likely to be the modern ***Fake Log*** pot And these will be very disappointing in use as all the bass is between 1 and 3 and nothing will happen after that.

On the other hand if you *Do* happen to have some genuine log taper pots (i.e. 10% of total resistance @ 50% rotation) then yes use them.
***Remember the Mid and Treble are Linear,,, only the bass is Log***

You can use 250k for both Treb and Mid and even 100k Log for bass.
It just changes the interaction between controls. I wanted the mid to have more control than the treble otherwise you end up back at good old fender where the treble overides everything. :grr

Truth is 500k won't do much for guitar as the larger value only boosts freq below 100 Hz and as the lowest freq on guitar is about 80Hz you won't even notice it.
Bass Amp tone stack with big Amp driving a couple of bins,, then it will then be heard.

If you are breadboarding it all then heck try anything out and see how it sounds before you build.
Have fun,,Phil.

Hi, Having repaired a Performer 1000 (similar circuit) I thought I should add my observations.

At least 10 Watt resistors if you want it to survive. 0:)
I mounted these off the board to help keep heat away from the the tracks and the Zeners certainly don't need more heat beside them.
Oh and watch out for those tracks as they will have delamanted from the PCB by now.
Yep those Fendurh tecks will never get a job at NASA.  :duh

Oh while I'm at it,,, the Ext speaker jack gives a slight difference in output.
It can be used even without the ext speaker in place simply by Inserting an empty 1/4" Jack.
Try it see if it changes anything.

Phil.

Hi phydauex,
                 Good to hear some positives come out of it all. :tu:
I actually use a rotory speaker from a Yamaha B5 organ. (no Amp)
It's only a mid type driver but by a simple Bipolar cap of 10uf/50Volt (in series with input) I run it from a 120 Watt Power amp with no issues.
(the original Organ Amp was only 20/30 Watts at best)

Now As the main 8-Ohm speakers are directly connected to the 120
Watt poweramp then the rotory speaker is just like a midrange in a HiFi crossover setup.
This allows you to pump far more wattage than is normally possible.

There is a hickup you may not have thought of:
Be aware that modern Guitar Amps tend to use speakers with stupid SPL ratings,,, i.e. 102/103 dB (1metre @1watt rating)

Whereas the old Vibro speaker is likely to be more like 87dB (1metre @1watt rating)
This will make the vib sound very subtle as the old driver will be way down in output per watt used.

For me I've found that a lot of the modern drivers very harsh and although they pump more SPL per watt used they are not as sweet as the older drivers with less SPL per Watt.

This stuff is not easy to put into words you really need to hear it with your own ears in an A/B test.
Trust me the moment you do you will understand EXACTLY what I'm ranting about.
Cheers, Phil.

Hi Jerry,, Welcome.

Under *Amplifier Discussion*
You'll find a post about Amplifier Book Written by Teemu.
FREE PDF download.

If you have money to throw at books then hunt down
*Art of Elecronics by Horowitz and Hill*
not cheap but even a mug like me got the gisst of how Audio amplification works.
Phil.

Er?
    But are they MI Speakers or HiFi Woofers?
Might make life excessively hard if they are HiFi type.
Phil.

Sound good,,,,
but remember the speaker may have limited wattage so plugging a big 100watt rig *Direct* might make the novelty wear off pretty fast.
Phil.

Arrh tis Good,,,
Teemu's *Dynamic Threshold Control Regulator* seems to to capable of catching out any kind of short circuit.  (Big Cheesey Grin) :tu:
Phil.