Quote from: joecool85 on April 26, 2011, 09:51:21 AM

I've not built one myself.  But from what I remember reading a while ago they normally just ground the connection between tip 1 and sleeve and tip 2 and sleeve.  You'll need to check with your amp if you need a momentary switch or a latching switch.  This is easy to check, plug in a stereo plug then play with the wires crossing them till they switch the channels.  Then just wire the switches to do what you had the wire doing.
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I would just try to find one, but they're hard to come by and usually cost more than they're worth. I'm tired of finding old amps and every one of them is missing the footswitch. I'm certain that what it does is each switch grounds out the effect that it's assigned to. at least that's what it looks like.

No need to be afraid.  Only 9v power source and they are easy to debug.  Let us know if you decide to go ahead and build one.
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I'm just afraid of blowing an amp is all.

In that case build a silicon transistor version, much easier to get parts.
Check http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/fuzzface.php and build the Silicon one.
They suggest a PCB too.
What the heck, you gave me ideas, I'll build one too, lots of fun. :tu:
[/quote] Thanks, Juan. Let me know if that works out for you. I still have a question, Can I just use any PNP transistor?

 Don't hate me for this, but you are *asking* for a classic Fender

I don't hate you for that. I don't really hate fenders either, They're good for some things. Remember The Doors?

Or a similar one from the same era, including Ampegs and many others.
They should use the large, full size reverb tank, similar to what Super Reverbs and Twins used.
Or you could try to find a hybrid Peavey Mace.
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I don't much believe that hybrid trans/tube amps can get the same tone. I played on one once, and it seemed to lack something that only an all tube amp has. The tone was similar, But not true tube tone. I've owned 2 tube amps from the '60's, a silvertone 1481, and an airline that was built in 1965. I sure miss those things. They had a sound that you just can't duplicate with IC's, and the vibrato was great on the airline amp.Of course, It's functionality that counts. For the reverb and vibrato, sure, I'd own a fender. But as for tone, I'd rather have a vox or marshall. You've been a big help to me. Thanks for the advice, Juan. I'll see what I can find.  :tu:

Hello again. I just tried to find that schematic you needed, But no luck. Maybe if you could get in touch with the company, or look on ebay, yu might find one. Other than that, I have no idea. Sorry I couldn't be of more help to you.

You might try musicparts.com, They have a schematic for my amp that's nearly impossible to find. They're not free, though. You'll have to buy it. But if they don't have it, no one does. I'll look for it later, and if I find it, I'll post a direct link for you.

Cool! I hope it works out for you. :tu:

I really don't know much about things like that, but I'll try to help any way that I can. Did you figure out the right size for the capacitor yet?

Quote from: J M Fahey on April 26, 2011, 05:12:16 AM
Now you've hit the nail straight in the head.
Bi-amping would be great.
Let his 15" handle what it can and send the couple 10" what *they* can handle, courtesy of an LM3886 or similar.
He might mount it on the 2x10" cabinet itself. :tu:

I think that Juan is right. Go for it and let us know what happens.

I'm not sure, but being a marshall, and in such good shape, clean it up and you should get 3 or 4 hundred dollars out of it to the right person. that's my guess.

Hello, I've been looking to get an old tube amp with reverb, But I'm not sure which one would be the right one for me. I don't like alot of bass, and I don't much care for the mellow tone that a fender gets. I like a lot of treble and midrange with very deep reverb. Any suggestions?

Thanks, I'll have to see if I can find some switches. I wasn't going to use LED's because I want to keep it simple. The original one didn't have them, but it does seem like a good idea.

Joe is right. Myself, I couldn't tell you the cause, but I know that I've had a few amps that did that. Usually, it's not a problem. If you hear any noise like a loud hum, or buzzing sound, that's something to worry about.

Quote from: J M Fahey on April 26, 2011, 12:07:23 PM
Yes, 6845 and 6847 mean late 1968, compatible with a 1970 amp.
Your volume pot should match value and taper, nothing else.
Well, size too and probably the shaft to use the same knob, but nothing difficult.
Since they were non-switching but two very similar channels, only adding "evffects" to one of them, my guess is they are otherwise exactly alike, so volume pots should be the same.
Check it.
Those other numbers must be internal "house numbers" , but measure the pots with your multimeter and you're done.

I forgot to mention that I dont have a multimeter, but I'm gonna get one as soon as I can. Getting tired of the guesswork. I understand about the pots, and you are right, Juan. the volume pots have the same numbers, but theirs are different then the rest. I'll have to get a multimeter if I'm going to start working on amps and effects, just to be on the safe side. The transistors were easy bacause the amp had been lying opren for so long that each one had a lead that was rusted off. I was still very nervous about plugging it in because it had been rained in, wires were broken(I fixed those first), and it was just in awful shape. The volume on channel 1 broke when I tried to free it up. Channel 1 does work, but it's LOUD.

I just found out that the celestion speaker in my sears amp's cabinet was made on may 13, 1980. It's date code reads EN13. The jensen speaker that accompanies it is most likley a 1961, The date code on it reads; 220144. But it makes no sense, because this is a ceramic magnet speaker. Could they have been making those as early as 1961? I understand that when the '70's came along, the codes were changed from having 6 digits, to having 7 digits. the later codes apparently show the last 2 digits of the year, insted of just 1. I guess that got rid of some confusion for the '70's and later models. :loco

The only way I can cut the bass on this amp is to turn the bass control to zero. I'm really gonna have to fix that.

Than you very much, Juan. I finally feel like I've found out some very valuable information on this old beast. I'm very greatful for your advice. I'm going to see if I can find a replacement for channel 1's volume, and hopefully I can order one and fix that. Hopefully, MCM has one. If they do, I can order it and have it in about 3 days. I'd still like to find out what the output is on this amp. I guess it's about 50 watts or somewhere thereabouts. I'm a guy who likes to know as much as possible about his instruments and amps. Thank you all for the replies. If any of you know anything else that migt help, please let me know.