The Thomas organ paragraph about TO3's (Output Transistors/paragraph 5) was the problem. The old TO3's grease dried out, two overheated and shorted. I need new mica washers and dielectric grease and maybe new sockets?

The premise of the article (Output Transistors/paragraph 1) is the old Germaniums are $20 each and  matched pairs are hard to find. I can get them from "guitarampsky" for $50 with shipping  (eight with a foot of fusewire.

I will still need a new driver transformer ($35 with shipping), even for the silicone replacement fix.

Here is the copy of the schematics from Arkansas and a picture of the output amp area. If I get the model with aluminum heatsinks they may stick out the back. If I get the LM3886 without the heatsink it may be bolted to the Baldwin's chassis/heatsink were the TO3's are.

Thanks for the second look. I will use a chip amp to replace the output amp on the Baldwin.

The space where the capacitor/holey board/ output transformer was is 12" x 4" x 2" deep. The Channel 2 board with tremelo is on the other side and the Channel 1 is on the rear side to the left of where the new amp will be going.

I will need point to point instructions for hooking it up. The LM3886 can be purchased assembled with heat sink for under $20. The heat sink will stick out the back if

I think the schematic shows +43v (pin4) & -43v (pin11) or +32v (pin3) & -32v (pin10) from the existing Baldwin power supply on the bottom of the amp. The LM3886 wants 20-28v?

Will the old light bulb limiter be saved?

I found the schematic with voltages. I have no voltage at one side of the driver transformer to 3 TO-3's (beside the two germaniums that are shorted emitter/case).

The transistors (7) will be $50 including fusewire and shipping and the transformer $35 more.

Here is the schematic. It is hard to read and may be the single 12" model.

I found an old schematic. It shows the NPN's with the 0.47 fuseable links across from the emitter to collector? Could the TO3 sockets or mica gaskets be causing the "short"? There is green (CU) on the connections.

Is an ASZ1015 a replacement for the old RCA TO3's?

I bought the Baldwin for the speakers. I needed a 4 ohm for the KPM4060's stereo amp (60 watts RMS @ 4 ohm). I am not sure I need to spend more time or money on the old amp but wanted to learn more and see if I could nurse it back to health.

There were 7 fusible links (.47R) on the rear of the amp. One was missing when I got the amp. I soldered in wires the same dia., turned it on and now have 3 smoked fusible links instead of 2!

Without the "wires" (=no smoke) the voltages seemed to check out (the first TO3 had +30 and the other 6 had +40).

The speakers may have been series wired (4+4=8). They were unplugged when I got the amp and I put white-on-white & black-on-black. Could this have lead to such a disastorous result??

I am now using my Kustom 4060 pa amp to play guitar (with the Baldwin 4 ohm speakers - one on each side).

Can I use 2 watt flame proof metal oxide power resistors to replace the blown 0.47ohm wires (fusible links)? Do I need more wattage like a cement ceramic?
Will Motorola MJ15004 or MJ2955 replace the shorted 36312 RCA's?
I think the 500uF 5WV in the output stage is shorted and want to use a 50 VDC to replace it.

My attachments are not coming through. The schematic I had was baldwin_schematic.gif from Teemk on Sept.14,2008

I have two TO3's with shorts (no resistance) from the emitter to case.
There is base & emitter voltage to the small transistors and output from all but the Ch.2 fed from the volume pot. (Jim002) and output board with orange dot (Jim001).

I have a Baldwin Professional that has "smoked" two of the six (6) R47 wires that are soldered on the lugs bolted across the rear of the heatsink of the TO-3's. What is going on? and what would replace them with?(after I fix the problem).
A knurled nut & 8-32 bolt fell out from where it was wedged between the Ch.2 board and the chassis (Ch.2 had not worked before - zero/nada). Now both channels "work", but are weak & distorted.