Ok,
    I may have posted about this before, but I cannot find it. I have an old Princeton 65 SS amp. It is so noisy it's unusable. I've resoldered and then replaced the power caps and no change. I've resoldered all of the connections on the PCB and it made no difference ('refreshed' the solder). I've tried several guitars, cables, etc, and can not change the noise that way. It's 60-cycle hum. I have conditioned power to plug it into, a shielded studio (HAM radio operators made that a necessity. I basically have a Farraday cage in my basement HAHAHAHAHA!), have tried it in several circuits, in several locations (inside and outside of my house), and no change.

   I've also swapped out the input jacks and have not had any luck. Fender SS amps are 'noisy' out of the box but this is insane. ANY help would be appreciated. I was an electronics tech in the Army and work in the industry now, so I'm not a novice, but I simply cannot figure this thing out! I love the amp (when it works) but am about ready to set it on fire! Thanks in advance!

I have a reverb tank and a phono preamp. I am going to make a satellite reverb unit to use with my Laney AOR 100 Pro Tube (yes, a tube amp. I know it's a "nono" here haha). Do I have to use a balance potentiometer to make a "wet / dry" adjustment or can I use both sides of a standard pot? Thanks!!!! Erich

Howdy, All! Love the forum.
I got a Kustom KLA-10 amp from a friend and I want to fix it for my nephew. I had to replace the input & headphone jacks because the plastic I.C. mounted ones were both broken. I have power, the transformer works fine and I have low volume through the headphones and none through the speaker. I think it's the IC mounted on the heat sink ("power" portion of the amp). I'd like to know how to check it with my voltmeter to verify that's the problem. I am actually pretty hndy with this kind of thing, just not much experience with small SS audio circuits. I recondition tube amps and build guitars for a hobby!!
Any help you folks can offer would be appreciated. Oh, yeah, the IC has what looks like TBA2030A on one line and 8BA41B on the second. Thanks, again! Erich