Thanks Joe! I didnt know if anyone had previous dealings with morley but from what i gather thier products are rugged so I beleive its dirty. Will hit it with some detoxic and post results.

I have a Morley classic wah pedal i bought for 25$ US at a pawn shop and have been using it now for a year. I have noticed that it doesnt quiet have the "Wah" i guess im looking for. The wah doesnt start until the pedal is about 1/2 way down. Is it possible the optical sensor is dirty? There is only a on/off switch and the footboard.
Is there a way for me to Fix this so it will have more oomph and to note: Im running this first in my chain right after my boss tu2 pedal. Ive used this with a peavey vyper 15 and my Peavey A260 SS with same results.
To specifically describe what i belive is the problem it does not have the volume Ive heard from other Wahs weather i use a fresh 9volt or a 9volt power supply.

Thoughts Ideas?,

WAH NOOB..lol

Yes it does, the input/ouput for the booster and footswitchjacks are 1/4 not din connectors so i guess i can use a 2 button footswitch for this for the effects. The booster output as Enzo explained I will leave alone, i cant imagine needing this beast any louder...lol. thank you sovery much for your help and time.

cheers, :tu:

Lance that Retro sounds beast. Also to add to some humor, I jam in a garage very similar to the one in your youtube video with your  band. At first i was like wow when did you guys setup in my garage? :lmao: Ok cheeziness aside, when can we purchase one of these bad boys and how much. If this is cheaper than a tube head put me down for one. :mobile :tu:

Quote from: kin0 on October 14, 2010, 07:12:06 AM

8. Do you have any good guide for how to build a cab and how to choose speakers?

KinO,

As far as Cab Building is concerned you should check out my post on building a cab. My project is going slow but its coming together nicely.I give a parts list im using but i would suggest choosing your materials and parts based on whats econimical to your budget. Dont skimp on the speakers and make sure the speakers can handle the amp head your building in terms of Ohm load. Also be sure to use at least 3/4 Subflooring Plywoodif you must use ply wood. This is where i found my info for my project.
http://www.duncanamps.com/technical/speaker_cab.html
Good luck mate

Its an A 260 standard as far as i can tell. I know the standard series had many versions mostly pa style. I am going to look for a pickture and see if i can post it or the link to it.

http://www.govdeals.com/photos/2387/2387_169_1.jpg

unfortunately im having a hard time finding pics of this online but finally found one. Mine is exactly like this minus the cab.
When I post pics of my cab project ill take some good ones and post them then. My Rig is at my drummers house right now.

Enzo its a 260 A as far as i can tell. I would like to be able to switch from clean to distortion via footpedal. Im runnig my effects thruthe clean channel now on the 2 input so its no earsplitting loud. i do like the classic rock crunchy overdrive the distortion channel makes. so swtichin back and forth is the desired goal. ab  pedal would work but id rather do it with a footswitch if pevey made one... ill google it but in the meantime, thanks for your help. ill post my findings.

Luca

I know this topic is old but i will contribute my .02 for future reference for the site for others since i own the same amp as you.
I own a Peavey 260 standard A also.

Clean channel: volume, bass, mid,treble  then booster input and footswitch inputs. 2 Inputs for instruments.

Effects or Distortion channel if you will: Volume, bass, mid,treble, then distortion and reverb. 2 inputs for instruments.

I have found that pluggin into the lower input on each channel lowers the output or gain signal to the speakers from your amp. I have a 212 sunn cab that I run it off of and it cranks tones from country to metal. I have used a Boss mt2 with it on the clean side as well as a tech 21 GT2 and it really cranks. I do recommend getting some detoxic spray and unlpug your amp b4 you do this btw, spray all the inputs and take the knobs off and spray the pots. I did this recently and went from only being able to turn it to 3 to 6 without the "pain: because it is a very loud amp setting the volume at 6 oclock would be as loud as any small gig would need. Try adjusting your clean settings to volume 6 oclock, bass 3 oclock, mid 12 oclock, treble 4 oclock. I found for most rock and metal styles this is the best place to set the tone and then use a good effects pedal for distortion. I recommend this one to give you a nice real tube pregain in a pedal.
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Blackstar-HT-Series-HT-DISTX-Tube-High-Gain-Distortion-Guitar-Effects-Pedal-104778568-i1395624.gc.

The distortion channel on the 260 gives you a nice classic rock overdrive! I love the spring reverb, a little goes a long way. This thing will out live me if i have anything to do with it. Also you can slave a smaller "practice amp" to it for effects. I've done this and it was ok but nothing sounds better than a effects chain direct into the clean channel.

Cool thanks for the tip. i was gonna just gonna use some wallmart cloth stuff in the craft sectionlooks like carpet
or felt in a USMC camo pattern. wonder if i can glue that on or just wrap the frame pull it tight and staple the material on the inside of the cab before the front and back go on.

on my 260 i see it has 6 inputs 2 for clean channel 2 for distortion channel. It also has a booster input and another input near the power on light. What are these for and why doesnt a FS5U pedal switchthe channels from clean to the distortion channel.

someone at Guitar Center suggested bridging both channels with balanced speaker cable (running the #1 input from the clean side to the #1 input on the dirty side). what will this do? The booster input doesnt do anything when I runa FS5U to it and neither does the other input. is ther a special footswitch peavey made for this head? Its dam near older than me... :lmao:

Quote from: J M Fahey on October 11, 2010, 09:20:42 AM
Nice cabin in the woods !! Quite roomy for a family of 4 !!
He he, you won't be moving that 4x12" around, will you?
Hope you have a truck, or at least a van.
Definitely, it will give you a lot of gut kicking bass.
Don't worry so much about the speaker position, simply leave some even space around each, since you have the room.
Don't worry about sealants, just run a bead of glue.
The wood you used is excellent.
The 13 ply baltic birch bit does not hurt, if available, but has more incidence on the marketing department than on the acoustic one.
FWIW I have seen Hartke and Peavey cabinets made out of humble OSB, yet sound good.
I gave it a try, and decided against it not on acoustic or strength problems but because of the pesky edge splintering , even with a new blade, and because it dulls my router bits quicker than I care for.
Post some pictures taken along the building process.

JM
Thanks for the support. I Figured the 3/4thickness would compensate for the OSB ply wood. I had read that gluing the edges together will help. I realized the cabin...lol will be a bit boomy. I want to yield a sound that has a tight bottom, scooped mids and punctual highs. I play alot of metal/numetal and favor Mick Thompson and Darrell "Dimebag" Abbot styles of playing. I play rythyum guitar mostly with lead accents and harmonies. In short i play aot of drop D and drop B/C modified. Now for the parts list.

corner guards (Chrome to match the head)
2) 150 lb rated handles (like on an SWR bass cab)
4) casters 35lb rated each with brakes
2) 1/4 inch Neutric Female Jacks or jack plate with installed already? is there a difference from guitar and speaker female ins? balanced maybe?
1) XlR female in Plate ( Plan on miking the inside of the cab for cleaner recordings)
4) Celestion GT75K 12" speakers in 16ohms (thanks guys for the info)
25') of 14 guage speaker wire (someone suggested  16 guage will 14 guage be better or rob power or overheat?)
1) 20 yard roll of covering material (excess is best and if i like my finish job im gonna redo the Peavey 260 head and Sunn 2x12 Cab)
4) Cans of 3M Spray adhesive to tack up the covering as well as stapling the hidden seams.
2-5) Cans or rubberized undercoating ( Not real sure how im gonna use this but i was thinking it would dampen any rattle or buzz from the wood).  I plan on treating the baffles and corners with this before I cover it.
1) 36x36 speaker cover not sure on the material but it will be heavy duty mesh and protect the speakers from damage.

Add custom authentic logo and project "Claymore" is done! Place Front Towards The Enemy, i mean Audience..lol (TM).

Hey guys thanks for the input and help. Right now the cab is put together (unfinished, just a box) I built it 36"x36"x16" and I did something a little wierd i guess. I made it so the front panel the speakers mount to (baffle i believe you call it) recessed in about 3/4" and sealed the back instead of the front. i made it so the front panel could come off after taking out the screws. I figured I'm gonna be the one replacing the speakers or wiring so servicing this badboy would be as simple as pulling the font panel with all 4 speakers bolted to it, unplug or unsolder the 8 connections and replace the speaker(s) that nneed servicing should it ever come to that. The cabinet lumber is 3/4" Subflooring Plywood. Iknow i know you say get birch or mdf, im not complaining the lumber was free/given to me so i had to use what was available and im on tight budget. I'm not going cheap on the speakers so i hope that will not negate the material the cab is made out of. I also plan on using rubberized undercoating spray on the inside to give it a nice airtight seal after i glue the box frame together. I screwed everything together today so that the wood would not warp after it was cut. The biggest delima im having is trying to do the math on exactly how far apart the speaker should be from each other and the edgesfor optimum sound. I heard something about box resonance and qt's on Duncan amps webby. i have no idea what math is involved in that but my carpentry skills are decent. I sketched out with sharpie how far each speaker should sit in the cab and it came out to a 3 inch "bubble" around each one .Given the mass of the cab face that left 6 inches between each speaker side by side and top to bottom. Should i go closer in?

I love my peavey260 guitar amp and i think it deserves a nice custom built 4x12 cab. It saw 400 watts on the back and I understand that this may be peak output but it is also saying it is 4 ohms. I searched this site a little b4 i decided to post this but what im trying to do may not have been done here for this amp. I recently refurbed this monster with some detoxic spray and resoldered all loose connections and put a new power cord on it. She breathed back into life like i never imagined. I cant complain about the distortion because i always selct a good tone from clean and then run my pedals to it. Even at unity and a good eq pedal she competes with the lead players marshall neck and neck. I have a project im doing and i need some specific info in laymans terms that i couldnt quite understand elsewhere. Im building a 412 cab for a peavey 260 guitar head and need to know what celstion speakers to use and since its 4 ohms as marked on the back of the cab, how do I achieve the best output without damaging the head or sacrificing sound. now most would say go buy a brand name cab and be done ....i say nay im a diy guy. I needto know if series or parralell would bebest in wiring this project. Any help would be appreciated.

Jason