Welcome
@t0neloc!For reference, The Who bass rig.
http://www.thewho.net/whotabs/images/equipment/bass/jae-bassrig2000-2002_whocoll.jpg (http://www.thewho.net/whotabs/images/equipment/bass/jae-bassrig2000-2002_whocoll.jpg)
Okay, my 5.5cents worth...
Design rules - general.1. What have/are other people doing in the field? Genuine research.
2. create an ideal/optimal/full-blooded image/plan
3. compromise it into the time/money budget
Q - Some of the typical characeristics of bass rigs (guitar incl. keyboard/synth).
A - 1.
Lots of EQ; both shelving and Graphic
Compression & limiting
maybe some Fx
Lots of clean power (no overdrive/clipping)
Cab or cabs that can reproduce it.
There's a gotcha with the e-Bay.uk offering; it's rated 20W into
2 ohms; that's four 8 ohm drivers in parallel. Unless you are going to be brave and try automotive boom-box type drivers, finding four or two ohm drivers could be interesting.
Since you intend
battery operation reduced power consumption into a higher load impedance for more limited SPL, then "wattless mechanical amplification" arises, the
horn, which is vastly more efficient for turning
watts electrical into
dBSPL.
After building a few, e.g.;
Siamese W-Horn with tweeters, (50W amp).
E-Tone 15 inch nominal 200W. Note the two forward facing letter-box tweeters which can provied any required "gar-dang" and poppin' Bootsy-style.
And a classic SS bass rig,
Acoustic 360, 361;
After a lot of calculating and graphing I now feel that the best bang for a given volume of cabinet is a front-radiating, back-loaded
J-horn, e.g.;
Possible to mount a letterbox or up to four bullet tweeters around the driver.
http://www.ozvalveamps.org/cabinets/fane-loudspeaker-book-pages-34-41.pdf (http://www.ozvalveamps.org/cabinets/fane-loudspeaker-book-pages-34-41.pdf)
More here;
http://www.ozvalveamps.org/cabinets.htm#fane (http://www.ozvalveamps.org/cabinets.htm#fane)
The
Who system in the heading may well be
bi-amped, or
tri-amped, (2+2mid+1+1horn); that is the frequency spectrum split up in the preamp stages to provide an
active crossover, that only the frequencies you want goes to each driver/cab set (and the higher end is covered by port-tuned direct radiators).
A poor man's active crossover is an stereo upgrade
graphic equaliser. {for a minimal rig these often also come free or for $10 at a garage sale, with a large space inside the case and a bit of DC power to mount any other desired electronics, e.g. compressor/limiter. Etc...
So yeah,
Hi. :dbtu:
{digging for some MPF102 pre sims.}