This is quite the setup - curious what you have for speakers/cabs? Also, do you gig or is this just for fun?
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Quote from: g1 on June 18, 2023, 08:20:20 PMThe sarcasm and derision was not directed at your request at all, rather the amp marketing.
At it's price point, I can't see the schematic ever becoming available. I would think if they are servicing under warranty at all, it would be board swap. But most likely, during warranty the whole amps are replaced, like amps on the Fender 'do not repair' list.
For parts, their support page says: 'Replacement parts are not currently offered for our amplifiers'.
All that being said, I do see a service manual for the Acoustic Control B600 at electrotanya, so maybe schematics are available to official service centers, if there are any (service centers).
Quote from: gui_tarzan on June 10, 2023, 09:36:13 AMI have a solid state guitar amp that I'd like to use different speaker cabs on to experiment with like you can do at a store with those switch racks. I did a quick search to see if there was a DIY option here but didn't see one. When I was a kid I would just put a bunch of jacks on a rotary switch (with radios) but after several decades of tube amp repair experience I know better. However, not having been immersed in the SS world I don't know the best way to handle this.
Quote from: Untilitkills83 on May 08, 2023, 12:58:21 PMGreetings all. Hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction. I own a Crate BX 160 amp, it is a beast. Recently, when it is powered on, regardless of a bass guitar being plugged in, there is a consistent for lack of a better term 'raspberry' sound coming through the speaker and a minimal / intermittent crackling effect think listening to a record / turntable. All the input and master volume could be turned all the way down and it is still present. When I plug my bass in, all noises remain. If I turn the main volume master and input up, the noise is there but it doesn't get louder. More often than not, the bass can drown it out. I thought I had confined the source to the cable that connects the speaker itself to the main input Jack on the electrical board. After getting a new cable, nothing changed. I've even tried the line out into my preamp interface for recording and luckily it is clean, no raspberry sound or crackling so it would seem that the issue is the connection on the circuit board from where the input Jack is to the main electrical component. Hoping someone might know of a fix for this. Thanks in advance.
Quote from: saturated on May 04, 2023, 12:19:19 PMI went back and read most of the posts in this section going back to 2009 and stuff. lots of success stories.
I enjoyed reading the unselfish contributions of the heavy hitters here and wonder where some of them are if they have moved on or passed on R.I.P.
anyhow its a gold mine of technical info and entertaining as well.
my hat is off to those with the knowledge and experience helping out in all of those threads, asking nothing in return.
Quote from: Tassieviking on April 21, 2023, 12:21:13 AMWelcome Saturated, yeah I know , a bit late but I am always a bit slow.
If you are new to soldering then the best thing you can do is get a soldering iron with a temperature control and some small tips.
I use a 50 watt iron with a digital temperature display, 50 watt lets it keep the heat better then a smaller iron.
Never buy solder cheap online, you will just produce *s!!t* solder joints that might not make a connection.
I use a 1mm solder tip and good solder that is 0.5mm thick, 0.8mm is ok as well.
I use a magnifying loupe 10x or 20x to check all my solder joints, its amazing how much you will miss if you don't check them properly.
I have been building stuff since I was a young smart-arse way back, my first serious project was a 16 channel mixer desk (ETI I think) around the mid 70's, along with 2 x 100 watt amplifiers that a friend used as a mobile disco.
Once you start building your own stuff you never stop, and why would you when you can make your own amps and pedals cheaper then what you can buy them for.
Shop around for parts as you can get some stuff a lot cheaper if you do, I buy a lot of stuff from Tayda because the price is good.
Quote from: phatt on April 21, 2023, 09:37:27 PMWell it might be Lead free solder which is really hard to work with at home.
For the humble home hobbyist far better to use lead solder.
Label will say 60/40, 60% Tin, 40% Lead.
Lead-free (Pb-free) solder really needs to be done in a factory that is setup for it. Yes it crumbles and does not flow like 60/40 solder.
Quote from: saturated on April 22, 2023, 03:07:05 PMthanks its a 1980 Bronco
T18 and 300 six
it will do anything you ask
just not in a hurry
Quote from: rockaffe on April 17, 2023, 02:31:14 PMHello everyone, I'm doing the veroboard layout for the honey amp but, as I'm not yet very familiar with reading schematics, I'd like to ask for some advice.
The first concerns the connection of the headphone jack, which I solved as follows:
You cannot view this attachment.
Is that correct?
The second concerns this part of the circuit:
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Does it mean that pins 1 and 8 of the IC need to be connected to lugs 1 and 2 of the gain pot?