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Quote from: Jazz P Bass on April 08, 2018, 11:54:59 AMFair points. I think I will go back to the previous repair and not mess with it myself
It was never stated exactly what is wrong with amp.
"Doesn't work" does not lead to the opamp.
Quote from: g1 on January 31, 2018, 08:50:10 PMI meant to ask about the switching part. I want it to switch off the speaker when a plug is plugged in. Is it just called a switched jack?
They are sometimes called 'Cliff style' but that is a brand name. Maybe 'leaf' style?
Neutrik NMJ4HF-S would be an example.
Quote from: flester on April 08, 2018, 07:20:18 AMSorry I see you answered that already.Quote from: Jazz P Bass on March 27, 2018, 01:01:03 AMYes that is the first step. If it is to be replaced, what are pros and cons to using a socket rather than soldering chip to board?
Sure you can socket the ic.
First off, I would prove that the ic is bad.
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Quote from: Jazz P Bass on March 27, 2018, 01:01:03 AMYes that is the first step. If it is to be replaced, what are pros and cons to using a socket rather than soldering chip to board?
Sure you can socket the ic.
First off, I would prove that the ic is bad.
Quote from: galaxiex on April 03, 2018, 08:32:15 PMThanks I will try that. Actually not too greasy. Just dirty. Some paper caps look dead anyway but most of the other components look intactQuote from: flester on April 03, 2018, 07:24:19 AM
Whats a good way to clean something like this? Its got 69+ years of dust, cobwebs and kitchen grease.
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I use compressed air first to clean old guitar amp chassis.
Just to blow the loose dust, cobwebs, and general grunge out.
Then scrub with Naptha (lighter fluid) and/or alcohol and an old tooth brush,
blowing off the loosened muck with air.
Naptha and alcohol are fairly benign to most things, and certainly ok on metal chassis,
but on something this old,
I'd be cautious about using any solvents near anything that looks like paper or waxed and maybe even plastics.
Test a small area first.
Quote from: solderer25 on March 31, 2018, 11:45:23 AMThanks all. I think the best would be to fully restore it as a radio. Apparently the first step is replacing all the capacitors. I took out the chassis just to clean it up and it all came out in one piece - nothing looks damaged. I love the fact that it was made here in Ireland. My grandparents had something similar up to the 80's at least
I can see it has a 'magic eye' tuning indicator tube. These look the dogs nuts when working and glow flourescent green usually. Worth bringing back to life just for that I think!
Quote from: flester on January 23, 2018, 06:24:42 AMAmp seems to have got more 'scratchy' since I first used it. Usually if I slightly overdrive it but its OK when I run it flat out (i.e. give it the full 0.75W !). Could some component have deteriorated from being overdriven? or did I just not notice at the start?Quote from: flester on January 16, 2018, 02:10:25 PMWorks as a harmonica amp too. I made the mic using a headphone speaker. The black box on the right contains a Kemo preamp module, needed to overdrive the amp. A Danelectro overdrive pedal works too. https://flic.kr/p/22mhiVvQuote from: phatt on January 12, 2018, 08:14:07 AMA friend has a 12" guitar speaker I can use. Time for a bit of joinery I think
Hey some nice blues riff there :tu:
BTW, looks like you are driving a hifi type speaker box,, if so then be aware they are woofers and generally have a low SPL,, a real guitar speaker will give a much bigger sound,, louder per watt of input.
Phil.
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Quote from: flester on February 11, 2018, 02:37:12 PMBTW i put a Kemo 12w module into the original enclosure. I found it breaks up nicely with a mic'd harmonica (as did the TDA2003 in fact). Goin to add a back to the enclosure to reduce feedback. Just learning how important enclosure design is by trial and erroer.Quote from: flester on December 02, 2017, 02:57:56 PMHeres the beginnings of my stereo 2 x tda2003 project. Sounds a bit better than my previous enclosure with the 5w 4" 8ohm speaker. These very cheap 4" car speakers are rated at 4 ohms and 80W rms. Seems optimistic but they should be able for 4W rms. Still need a preamp for guitar use - any suggestions?Quote from: J M Fahey on May 29, 2016, 06:48:11 AMOK here is plan B. I've been playing around with the Lm386 opamp and decided it might suit my little enclosure better than the TDA2003. I thought id use 2 of the TDA2003 modules with each one driving a 4" car speaker in some sort of cabinet. Maybe shaped like the Roland Street Cube https://m.thomann.de/ie/roland_cube_street_bk.htm
You can't reduce gain very much, I guess minimum is around 20X , because it becomes unstable.
So reduce R2/R1 ratio to about 20:1 but not less, any ectra reduction myst be input padding."Which is not all bad, you can add a passive tone conrol which will be lossy anyway.
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I also want to see if it works as a Smartphone amp. Planning some wine-themed styling on the wine box enclosure.
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Quote from: flester on December 02, 2017, 02:57:56 PMHeres the beginnings of my stereo 2 x tda2003 project. Sounds a bit better than my previous enclosure with the 5w 4" 8ohm speaker. These very cheap 4" car speakers are rated at 4 ohms and 80W rms. Seems optimistic but they should be able for 4W rms. Still need a preamp for guitar use - any suggestions?Quote from: J M Fahey on May 29, 2016, 06:48:11 AMOK here is plan B. I've been playing around with the Lm386 opamp and decided it might suit my little enclosure better than the TDA2003. I thought id use 2 of the TDA2003 modules with each one driving a 4" car speaker in some sort of cabinet. Maybe shaped like the Roland Street Cube https://m.thomann.de/ie/roland_cube_street_bk.htm
You can't reduce gain very much, I guess minimum is around 20X , because it becomes unstable.
So reduce R2/R1 ratio to about 20:1 but not less, any ectra reduction myst be input padding."Which is not all bad, you can add a passive tone conrol which will be lossy anyway.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
