Thanks Teemuk,
That's some good reading, had to take some asprin after that.
Well, I went with Version A.
Got Brand spankin new 3055's and mica washers, all the other components checked out.
Its idle-ing on the Variac and light bulb limiter right now.
Bringing it up slowly it was thumping pretty heavy but  it slowed down fairly fast and the 40W bulb sank into its soft glow, a nice dim sunset orange. The heatsink is Ice cold. I'm getting anxious to run it full throttle.
I'll see what happens with it tonight.

I really want to thank everyone here for making such an open forum possible, It's a good thing.
I never have messed with SS to much before so thanks for the lessons.
_matthias

Crap!
I've been using C whenever this comes up!
Thinking about it A makes alot more sense. but still whats up with B?

Hey Forumites,
I'm re-capping my Slave and I ended up going with a Bank of capacitors to cover the needed value,
Well, I got into a conversation about it with this old timer at my work (not electronics related), He grabed a bar napkin and drew up something like this:

Now this is somewhat confusing to me because I thought that Selection C was the way to go.
Selection A kind of makes some sense but..............Selection B just seems out there.
He stands by what he says but I Just don't trust it, He is the know it all type who is "never wrong" if you know what I mean. help me out here is this guy just in some "parallel reality" or is this guy really dropping some Phat knowledge on me?
-Matthias

Thanks Teemuk,
I think Q1 is good, but whats another $1.50.
I figure I'll do 'em all.
What do you mean by "equal model"?

Trevize, yeah, that pre-amp does look nice and simple, but I have the Slave head which is the poweramp only. But I guess there is enough room in the chassis if I wanted to clone the preamp.

I've got a question!
I have a Sunn Concert Slave head, sounded killer by the way!
Blah blah blah, long story short,
3 of the 5 power transistors have failed.
When testing them I noticed that 3 were 3055's and 2 were HEP704
the 3055's had #'s hand written on them, 86 and 87.
the HEP704 were not.
I'm wondering if these numbers represented thier original voltage drop? as in .86V or .87V.
But then on testing a known good (as in new) 3055, the voltage drop is around .5+V
one 704 and one 3055 survived.
NTE says that 3055 is a work alike for 704.
these transistors are all transformer coupled.
Do these need to be matched?
by what parameters are they matched?
Is there a method by which I can match a set my self?
here is a schem that seems to work, poweramp only: http://sunn.ampage.org/schematics/concertbass.gif
Previous schems I posted were wrong, sorry.
-Matthias

hello steve,
Man that looks good!

I'll try to measure the transformer with out a load and see whats up there.
Alright, I think I'm comming to my senses.
I think It's the pre-amp that I like anyway.

By the insulation thingies I mean the mylar type washers that keep the collector from contacting the heat sink.

O.K.
D.C. offset=1.184V
not sure what to do with this.

Transformer First time thru:   20.86V- 0 - 20.86V (did not notice any fluctuation)
Transformer 2nd time thru :  20.96V - 2.2 mV - 20.96V (on this measurement I did notice some fluxuation)
so From what you say joe, this doesn't look so good?

Oh Yeah, hitting the top of the amp, a.k.a. the old "fonzie" move, that was tried way back.

well, just to see, I Isolated the pre out and power in jacks and heard nothing different.
I checked out the board for cold/broken joints, reflowed anything that was somewhat questionable.
I beeped out all grounds and even disconnected the chassis ground, grinded off the paint and sanded the terminal lugs clean and reassembled 'em just to make sure we were grounded.
HUMMMMMMMMM...................
maybe I'll go all out here and use one of these Mr. Yuk things..........
I guess I could change out the transistors...........I have two new ones but I dont have new Insulation thingies

Alright so,
I just disconnected the preamp from the poweramp board, so it is not part or the circuit anymore.
The hum is still there. So, at least I know that its not the pots nor the jacks or anything in the pre-amp. I guess I'm down to the poweramp or the transformer,  I'll check the ground for the Poweramp again. Should the preamp out and the poweramp in jacks be isolated as well?

Hello Joe,
It claims 60 Watts RMS.
the PS caps are 4700uF.
As far as going up on capacitance, could I just parallel each with the same value? That should bring it up to 9400uF at the same 35V rating.
I guess if I do this I would also need to beef up the rectifier diodes? Right now I have some 4004's in there.

Hey RDV,
That makes some sense about the poweramp not being it, except that the hum is there when you plug into the footswitch or into the line in.
The Input jack is a regular metal one, but I have ISO washers on it.
also, like you Imagined, there is no seperate tranny for the preamp, I'll have to look into which way it is powered
Crystallas, Hello.
Check the pots? I'm guessing for DC and/or cold joints?
I'm not using a power conditioner at the present time but I have tried that with one used for computer set-ups and that one made no difference.

I'll check these ideas out tommorrow..or ahh.....later today.  Thanks alot guys.

Hello RDV,
When I got the amp it hummed, also both input jacks were trashed so the guy was plugging straight into the footswitch jack which allowed him to get straight to the poweramp section. I don't know if this is right, but I have no schematic for it so? 
I ran a cord from the line out into a valve jr. and the hum came along for the ride.
I noticed that the speaker jacks have Iso washers (of course) while the line in/outs do not.....should they?
The caps that I replaced are located on the power amp board but are the PS caps, the rect. diodes are right there as well.
As far as age, yeah it old and its seen some heavy abuse, but it does sound nice..........well, minus the hum of course.
the Transistors are cheap enough to just go ahead and replace. I believe they are 3055's as of right now.
don't know if they are original.
the tranny, well I havn't checked it out at all runs cool and I havn't noticed any excessive vibration from it.

well, first off ...............
Hello. I've been looking for a place like this, although this seems more on the building side but I'm sure that some of you are great at trouble shooting  failures. If this is absolutely the wrong place for this post, just say. and/or point me to another SS forum, that would be great.
So, here goes.
I have this Crate CR-212 and it Hums, bad.
The hum is still there and unaffected with all pots at zero, same volume as when all knobs dimed.
I've checked the ground
I've replaced the input jack for the 0db and shorted the proper traces for the -6db
I've replaced the filter caps,
and I've replaced the rectifier diodes.
the hum is in the realm of a Baritone low C.
Where to next?