I recently picked up a Yamaha G50 Series III. Nice amp, glorious cleans. Solidly built.
BUT, it turns out the headphone jack doesn't cut off the speaker output. Odd, and useless for late night practice while the household sleeps.
Circuit diagram, click on it to zoom once you're there: https://i.imgur.com/E30dpvS.png
I'm thinking that I could just use a jack that switches the off the signal feed to the power amp when a plug is inserted into the headphone jack. On the schematic, there's a "T" junction where the signal splits and heads down to the power amp section and also up to C164, and IC109 to split into left/right legs for the headphone jack.
HOWEVER, I'm a newb. I don't know if it's safe to just cut that feed of the power amp signal, so I could use confirmation on that plan. Also, do I need to have a pulldown resistor and/or something else to prevent a serious "pop" on insertion?
Lastly, do they commonly sell 1/4" jacks that also have an independent switching function built in in addition to the more common the signal switching? I know I've seen that feature in some pulled Fender board mount jacks, but I haven't see other generic jacks for sale that have the feature. What's the industry name for that sort of jack? Also, looking at the chassis, the jacks are definitely the isolated type with plastic housings. So it needs to meet that bar too.
BUT, it turns out the headphone jack doesn't cut off the speaker output. Odd, and useless for late night practice while the household sleeps.
Circuit diagram, click on it to zoom once you're there: https://i.imgur.com/E30dpvS.png
I'm thinking that I could just use a jack that switches the off the signal feed to the power amp when a plug is inserted into the headphone jack. On the schematic, there's a "T" junction where the signal splits and heads down to the power amp section and also up to C164, and IC109 to split into left/right legs for the headphone jack.
HOWEVER, I'm a newb. I don't know if it's safe to just cut that feed of the power amp signal, so I could use confirmation on that plan. Also, do I need to have a pulldown resistor and/or something else to prevent a serious "pop" on insertion?
Lastly, do they commonly sell 1/4" jacks that also have an independent switching function built in in addition to the more common the signal switching? I know I've seen that feature in some pulled Fender board mount jacks, but I haven't see other generic jacks for sale that have the feature. What's the industry name for that sort of jack? Also, looking at the chassis, the jacks are definitely the isolated type with plastic housings. So it needs to meet that bar too.