Quote from: Tassieviking on March 19, 2023, 11:01:15 PMThis might be the schematic for it

Yes that is the correct schematic, this is just the combo version but electronics are same.

Also try with headphones.  The phones jack usually also has a switching contact that disconnects the speaker.

Do you mean the 1K5's at the grids of the power tubes (Pin2) ?
That would be strange for them to all burn, I would wonder if someone even tried the wrong tubes in there.
The 100R screen resistors usually burn from bad power tubes.

Your drawing is correct.  I haven't seen it done this way before, or I just didn't notice.
Essentially, the value of R3 is being changed as the pot is adjusted.
The part of the pot in the feedback loop is standard.

Nice work, but I think VR1 must be wired up as a rheostat, like the honeytone here:  https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?msg=29583  ?

Quote from: Luthier Vandros on March 04, 2023, 12:31:48 PMonce the new silicon is in, I'll try to align voltages between green and red, along with biasing these little jerks.

On another forum J202 fet was working as a drop-in replacement for the 2N5485/TIS58 with no adjustment required.

Because these are Fet transistors, they can be a lot more finicky about being exact replacements, mostly with regard to biasing.
If the BF245's made a difference, it's possible something is off in the biasing and they were closer to getting turned on.
But also possible there is a bad connection somewhere that got jostled during the repair process and the part difference is not the issue.
You have a bunch of fets of the same type in there, so you can test them one at a time using the other channel, and swapping the questionable ones into Q4 position.

please confirm attached schematic is correct and same one you are using:
You cannot view this attachment.

Quote from: bsilverop on February 19, 2023, 03:38:17 PMIgnoring the last comment

If you are referring to me, perhaps you misunderstand my comment, or I misunderstood the original post.
You said the hum goes away when you touch the strings.  I was trying to get you to think about the issue from a different angle, or re-direct the conversation to see if others here thought the hum could possibly be normal.
Does the amp perform normally while you play?  If so, it seems there is an issue with your guitar shielding or cable.  Or maybe a bad interference issue.
Without touching any metal parts on the guitar, turn the guitar's volume controls all the way down.  Does that make the hum go away?

How can you play without touching the strings?

Are you making a parts list for the clone, or for the repair?
The fault should be located and replaced before any general part replacement.

If changing the chassis ground wire made a difference, there may be a ground loop or ground fault.
Check for any loose pot nuts, check all the pot mounting brackets (wings) solder connections as they are used to make ground connections in some places.
Check for any non-stock parts, like pots missing their 'wings' or plastic jacks that have been replaced by metal (which can cause ground loops).

Quote from: phatt on November 27, 2022, 08:12:52 PMHum,,My thought, What about Bridging R and T?
Find them at Test point 8 after IC4A also at J21

R and T are normally connected. (through insert jack, as J21 goes to J32)
However, dirty contacts in the insert could make noise, so bridging R and T would be a good test, like we normally jumper fx loop send to return.

The reason I suggested cutting the traces to the DSP was in case noise would still bleed into the signal, if the DSP is at fault.

Can you read schematics ok and translate to the board traces?
If so, cut the traces where red x's are shown.  Then connect the 2 traces shown with the blue link.
Reconnect any boards you disconnected.  Amp should mostly work.

You cannot view this attachment.

Are you asking where the power supply connections go to on the circuit board?

It's not possible for that mod to make your amp 'always on', so somehow you have made a mistake.
Pictures of how you did it will help.