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Messages - Superpunky

#1
SOLVED: I borrowed another working 212R to make some cross tests and it turns out that the distortion depends on bad speakers (both of them). I had them tested in first place, but I didn't realize they are bad (lack of experience). I feel so stupid  :-\
Thanks for your precious support  <3)

PS: I ordered a low cost function generator and an oscilloscope because I would like to keep up with this hobby
#2
U6 OA voltages:
Pin 1: 5,1 mV DC
Pin 7: -235 mV DC

Drivers base voltages:
Q18: 1,225 V DC
Q19: -1,17 V DC

Output transistors base voltages:
Q20: -0,62 V DC
Q21: 0,56 V DC

Is it possible that the distorted output is the effect of this little asymmetry in polarization?
#3
TP3 is +42,7V DC  0,56V AC
TP4 is -42,8V DC   0,6V AC
TP5 is +16,5V DC
TP6 is -16,3V DC

I can't measure the ripple on TP5 and TP6 because the measure is floating, anyways I unmounted and tested C75 and C76 and they are good.
#4
A little update on what I have done:

- I tried the chopstick method as suggested, unfortunately I had no change in the output
- I measued the DC power supply: they are OK
- I reflowed every single soldering: no changes
- I swapped the OA U6: no changes
- I unmounted and tested every single electrolitic capacitor from C40 to C60, they are all ok

How should I proceed? should I unmount all the transistors and measure them? Is there a way to measure if Q18 Q19 Q20 Q21 are working correctly?

I attach the audio of the amplifier with a guitar attached directly to the PWR IN, maybe it could help

#5
Hi forum,

I have a Fender Frontman 212R (not FM212R) with an issue of distrorted/crackling sound when the guitar is played. The distortion/crackling happens only when the guitar is played, when the source is muted there is no sound on the speakers. Both speakers are working correctly.
The issue persists connecting the guitar on the Power Amp also, so there's something wrong in the power amplifier section (lower right section in this schematic). https://idoc.pub/documents/fender-frontman-212r-schematic-ylyxvo69mznm

I tested all the capacitors on board and they seem to be ok. Solderings seem to be ok as well.

Did this happen to any of you? What tests should I do to find out the issue?

#6
SOLVED!

Sorry for long time without update. I received the LM1875 today, I changed it and the problem was still there   :grr
I decided to remove the surrounding capacitors and measure them one by one. It turns out that C12 was damaged, but not in short so I didn't detect it before. It measured some kohm in resistance and 0,5 uF instead of 4,7 uF. That damned capacitor drove me crazy.
Anyways, I changed it and the amplifier is now loud again.

I would like to thank a lot everyone that helped me, in particular dmeek that made a lot of work with reverse engineering.  :tu: Without the shematics I would have been lost. I hope that these posts will help people with the same amplifer.
#7
Quote from: dmeek on December 06, 2020, 07:16:58 PM
Both the External Speaker and Phones jacks have switches that could cut out the speaker, also check the .1 ohm resistor R16.

Wow, man! Thanks for your work, good job! I owe you some beers  :tu:
I was working on the reverse engineer as weel, I made the model with Target 3001!, but I exceeded with the number of pin/pads of the free version so it was not possible to generate the schematic. At least now I have a nice 3D model  of the board :cheesy:

Actually, the switch of the headphones jack cuts the "ground" for the rest of the chain, this doesn't happen with the switch of the external speaker. In fact, if you notice, the + signal of the line out jack goes in series with the ampli speaker. I don't know if the LM appeciates this :D
The resistor R16 is ok. It measures exactly 0.1ohm.


I finally managed to make some decent measuring on the signal:
- My test guitar generates 40-50 mVac at full volume
- The exit of the first opamp (pin 1) is between 300 and 400 mVac
- The exit of the second opapm (pin 7) is between 700 mVac and 1Vac
- The + input of the LM (pin1) measures always 25 mVac, with or without the guitar signal, so there's something wrong
- before R11 (exit of treble pot) the signal is ok and is up to 200 mVac
These measures suggest that the LM1875 is broken and is dragging down the signal (consider that I already tried to disconnect C23, so it can't depend on the reverb section. C11 and R12 are ok as well).
So, now I'm waiting for the replacement LM from China, I will update you asap

#8
Quote from: phatt on December 05, 2020, 07:33:37 PM
OK if the speaker contacts are intact then I can see you have 2 likely fail points the *power chip and the relay*.

Yes, the relay is working. I already tested all resistors, capacitors and opapms of the circuit. Maybe there can be some undetected short between the tracks, but my suspects are on the LM1875, so I ordered two from China. For that price (about 1€) it's worth a try.
Furthermore, R13=68k, R15=68 ohm, C12=224n, so the gain in this configuration goes up to Av=1000. It's difficult to measure the input signal without an oscilloscope. At this point it's easier (and really cheap) to make a guess and change the LM.

Quote from: dmeek on December 05, 2020, 08:20:23 PM
The way I draw a schematic from a pcb is to scan or photograph the foil side, flip it mirror image in the computer, print it on paper and draw the components on.
Works great for single sided boards.

I'm working on that, I will share with you the results as soon as I have done. Meanwhile, I attach the images of the back side and of the component side.
#9
I controlled and cleaned all the contact switches, they are ok on guitar inputs and outputs. I tested the output with an external speaker as suggested, the volume is still low. The external speaker plug is not designed to disconnect the main speaker. Only the headphones disconnect the main speaker. Odd...
Anyways, all the possible ouputs have a low volume.

The relay is a double contact. It switches when the overdrive switch is turned on, so I guess that it sends the signal to different paths on different opamps. The low volume issue affects both the clean and the overdrive channels, so I think that the following opapms are working. I'm still working to find out the schematics to track the signal path, but it's quite difficult.
#10
I tried to trace the inputs of LM to find where the signal comes from. I poorly drew a schematic (in attachment, sorry for low quality). It turns out that the signal comes from pin 1 of IC3.
As suggested, I lifted C23 to isolate the output of the opamp in IC3. I measured 0Vac and 0Vdc on pin 1 both before and after taking out C23.

The really weird effect is that if I play the guitar without C23 I still can hear the speaker working with the same volume as before.  I can't understand where does that signal come from.
The output on the speaker is 0,2Vac
#11
The opamps are supplied with +-15V (+15V on pin 8 and -15V).
I also tested the AC voltage of the various pins of the LM1875. The tester measured almost 0Vac on output pin 4 (?) and on both + and - inputs (pin 1 and 2). Am I doing something wrong? I made this test with the speaker disconnected and with the speaker connected, same results.
What source could I use other than the guitar to test the signal? I don't own a function generator
#12
Amplifier Discussion / Coxx GG-30 with low volume issue
December 02, 2020, 08:29:57 AM
Hi everybody,
I have a Coxx GG-30, a 30W combo solid state with a low volume issue which is driving me crazy :duh. The guitar can be heard only with all volumes (including equalization controls) at max level.
I tried to search for the schematics online, but they are impossible to find and there's not an official site. Maybe it's a rebrand?
The circuit board is based on an LM1875T and uses two 072D IC for pre and effects i guess (attached images).

Here is what I did/found:
- The low volume issue affects also the heaphones output
- The volume is low both on clean channel and with overdrive. I tried to use both inputs (high and low Z).
- I made a reflow of almost every soldering
- Potentiometers are OK
- The power supply is OK, +- 25V are everywhere needed
- I tested the resistors and they seem to be ok
- I tested all the capacitors onboard and none of them seems to be shorted
- Update: i tested both 072D. All 4 OpAmps are working correctly

Considering that I don't have an oscilloscope here at home, are there any tests that you can suggest to do to find out what's happening? Also, is there a way to find the schematics online?

Thanks!