Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - tonyharker

#31
You will have blown the power amplifier by connecting the external amplifier. It will be an IC or discrete transistor device.  A photo will show which.  If an IC it will probably easier to replace if you are competant to do that - can solder properly etc. A Transistor amp will be more complicated. If you are not sure it would be better to take it to a tech.
#32
Amplifier Discussion / Re: Repairing a Roland JC-50
June 25, 2018, 01:42:32 PM
Power transistors, and driver transistors are in the top right of the schematic page 3, Q18, Q22, Q27 & Q28 for later serial numbers, 25xxxx or Q11, Q12, Q13, & Q14 on page 7, for earlier serial numbers 24xxxx. The box around Q13, Q14, Q27 & Q28 means they are on a heatsink or mounted on the chassis
#33
Amplifier Discussion / Re: Sunn Coliseum 300 Issue
June 09, 2018, 06:35:19 AM
First thing clean both Send and Return jacks and try again.
#34
Glad to hear it. Enjoy playing.
#35
Tubes and Hybrids / Re: Tube shields on EL-84's
May 08, 2018, 05:17:18 AM
Don't use shields on power tubes like EL84s, you will only shorten their life and maybe overheat them.  Shields should only be used in preamp tubes where they are likely to pickup RF.  So hi gain hi impedance first stage amplifier tubes only. Tube retainers ie spring clips can be used on any stage.
#36
Yes, although putting  7v  approx across the speakers doesn't seem right.  Try biasing at a lower voltage first say 3v and see what it sounds like. Do you know what power the speakers are?
#37
You need to adjust the 1M bias preset on the AD130 #5 which drives the speakers so that the collector is at half supply voltage. This is a class A stage driving the speakers directly.
#38
Sounds to me like a bias problem or the transistors could have failed after all this time. - they are germanium after all.
First check that there is a voltage supply out of the bottom power transistor (No 6) - this is a hum reducing capacitance multiplier stage and should output about 15v. If this is present then the other transistors need taking out and checking for gain and leakage.

The symptoms you describe appear to be one of the transistors not conducting and the increasing signal being eventually rectified by the base/emitter junction and switching it on.  This would sound loud but distorted.
After all this time it may be necessary to replace all the transistors if you can find them or equivalents, or replace the complete amplifier for a modern one.
#39
The Newcomer's Forum / Re: Orange Crush 12 repair
April 08, 2018, 09:09:44 AM
You really need to find out why it is failing.  If you replace it odds are that it will fail again.. Op amps don't just fail for no reason!
#40
Check T8 BF245 & D24 the slow start circuit.  Sounds like T8 is on all the time.
#41
Looks like a thermistor to me not a diode.  Diodes are usually cylindrical.  :)
#42
Preamps and Effects / Re: Active pickupa
January 07, 2018, 12:40:41 PM
Is this an EMG 81? If so you need the connection board as shown here: http://www.emgpickups.com/guitar/humbucking/active-humbucking/81.html .  Have you got it?
#43
Amplifier Discussion / Re: Heatsinks for your poweramp
December 10, 2017, 12:57:54 PM
The LM386 is not an op amp but a power amp, albeit low power.  It could be getting hot because it it is oscillating. It should be cool if it is idling ie not passing a signal.
#44
Can you show us some pictures and the schematic you used?
#45
Instead of that class a amp you might like to look at a chip solution eg. LM1875, TDA2030, LM3875, LM3886.  There's a lot of information about these on the 'net also check out their datasheets - google. Kits and bare PCBs are available on Amazon and even eBay if you want to risk it. The LM1875 although listed at 20w will put out more at higher voltages into 8 ohm speakers.  The boards will be OK even though the IC may be suspect but they are cheap and a good starting place.