Great work! I split the topic though and made this it's own so it can be an easy resource for others later.
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Quote from: Carriage on July 18, 2022, 05:38:17 AMParts have arrived from tayda.
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Quote from: smadin on January 18, 2022, 07:54:56 PMThe great thing about DIY practice amps that run off 9V power is that there are so many to choose from! (The other great things are that they're inexpensive and usually fun and easy to build, of course.)
Off the top of my head:
- The aforementioned Honey, of course, which I had a blast building. (and I'd definitely be interested in a Honey II with a different IC!)
- The Noisy Cricket Cabell mentioned.
- I got started with runoffgroove.com's Ruby, and their Little Gem mkI and mkII are also worth a look. They have some mod suggestions for their designs, as well.
- Bruce Zinky's Smokey is as simple as it gets, it even omits the Boucherot cell from the LM386 datasheet's "minimal" schematic. (The Noisy Cricket page I linked also shows a couple of simple Smokey mods.)
- At the other end of the spectrum, Electrosmash's 1wamp crams in all kinds of features. Looks like kits/PCBs aren't currently available, but full schematics, KiCad files, etc., are hosted on their forum.
Quote from: Loudthud on June 15, 2022, 05:05:14 AMInteresting that it uses an external power supply. The jack on the back looks like the same one used on pedals.
Quote from: willpirkle on June 13, 2022, 10:08:21 PMYep - I didn't get the name of the company who did all of them, but was told something similar about the power amps, and that each model was designed in partnership with each respective company, so there are differences in the preamps that could be interesting to study. Have not seen any schematics for any of them tho.
Quote from: BenGunn on June 03, 2022, 06:19:15 AMHow many posts do I need to create to get access to the PM?
Quote from: krunssg2w on May 31, 2022, 12:50:25 PMA follow up for question three above. If I decide to remote mount the AUX in and headphone jacks, what are the specs for the non-PCB versions of those jacks? On Digi-Key (for example) I see many jacks with 2, 3, 4, and 5 contacts for mono, stereo, TRS, TRRS, TRRRS. It's confusing
It would be nice to use this so headphones have both 1/8" and 1/4" support -- https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-sine-systems-corp/ACJS-MHD985/10443364, but I'm not sure how to wire it up.
As far as the AUX in is concerned should that be stereo 3-pin connector?
Links to recommended chassis-mount jacks on Mouser, Digikey, or Jameco, etc would be great!
Quote from: krunssg2w on May 31, 2022, 12:29:31 PMHey! I'm a little late to the game, but started building out my Honey Amp PCB this past weekend. My intent is to use an 8 ohm speaker from an old Fender Champion 30 amp and likely power it with a 12V wall wart. I am building the "clean buffer" version, as I will be using this amp mostly to bench-test guitar pedals (a new hobby!)
My questions for the clean buffer build are:
1. C0 is shown on the schematic as 22pF. Does the type of capacitor matter? I assume any ceramic disc, MLCC, or box film cap would work, but wanted to check. I have a 22pF MLCC on hand and plan to use that.
2. The third line of the clean buffer instructions says "Attach C3 input to C2 + pad. [Audio jack] Input + will now need to be connected to pin 2 of RV1."
Can I get some clarification on these instructions? For the second part, it looks like the easiest solution is to solder a jumper between pads 3 and 2 of RV1?
I'm not sure about the first part -- C3 is soldered in place, correct? And I guess a jumper on the underside of the PCB between the pad of C3 closest to C0, and the C2 + pad? It's not to the pad of C3 closest to C7, correct?
3. Unrelated to the clean buffer alterations, what is the best way to mount the PCB in an enclosure? I will likely use PCB-mounted jacks for J2 and J3, but use wiring to remotely mount the Vol and Tone knobs. What's the best way to secure the PCB to allow access to the aux and headphone jacks?
Quote from: BenGunn on June 01, 2022, 08:42:58 AMQuote from: phatt on June 01, 2022, 03:03:40 AMHi Ben welcome
Regards to IMG_4223.1.JPG
My guess is that green wire you mentioned goes to the Chassis.
The idea is to re-route how the ground paths return to the main Common/Ground point,, which is the Chassis. I'm not sure about the 2 dots?
It would be best if you PM "bajaman" as he will be able to explain it to you.
Yes it must be hard when you have to translate.
hope it helps, Phil.
Thanks for the answer, phatt! But, unfortunately, I don't have the rights to send private messages. Maybe bajaman will appear on the forum and answer my questions...
Quote from: Trino on May 28, 2022, 05:38:30 PMHello joecool85 Hello, I need a thing
, can you give me a photo of the pcb of your k20x please?
Quote from: phatt on May 07, 2022, 06:37:30 PMYes open back delivers a more spatial sound hence fuller effect especially in small spaces but can present weird sonic issues in larger venues.
You may notice that a lot of big pro gigs tend to use closed back cabinets.
A player friend noticed this weird effect at an old wooden school gig where his open back rig was giving him a crossover of out of phase in the position he was limited to in the building. It can mess with your brain and the sonic result can be off putting.
That does not happen as much with a closed back cabinet.
Although it can still effect a closed back cab it is not as bad.
Venues with big Glass windows can have really bad reflections.
Quote from: phatt on May 04, 2022, 08:26:15 PMFor me personally I tend to like Sealed Cabinets for single speaker combos.