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Messages - krunssg2w

#1
Super info, thanks! I've made the mods as you suggested -- desoldering C3 and turning as described (clever PCB layout!) and wiring the input jack to pin 2

I ordered a couple different jacks and am waiting for them, and the pcb mounting hardware, to arrive. Mouser actually resells the adafruit PCB mounts, which is convenient. My PCB is a mess of wires, haha.
#2
A follow up for question three above. If I decide to remote mount the AUX in and headphone jacks, what are the specs for the non-PCB versions of those jacks? On Digi-Key (for example) I see many jacks with 2, 3, 4, and 5 contacts for mono, stereo, TRS, TRRS, TRRRS. It's confusing  :P

It would be nice to use this so headphones have both 1/8" and 1/4" support -- https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-sine-systems-corp/ACJS-MHD985/10443364, but I'm not sure how to wire it up.

As far as the AUX in is concerned should that be stereo 3-pin connector?

Links to recommended chassis-mount jacks on Mouser, Digikey, or Jameco, etc would be great!

Thank you!
Ken
#3
Hey! I'm a little late to the game, but started building out my Honey Amp PCB this past weekend. My intent is to use an 8 ohm speaker from an old Fender Champion 30 amp and likely power it with a 12V wall wart. I am building the "clean buffer" version, as I will be using this amp mostly to bench-test guitar pedals (a new hobby!)

My questions for the clean buffer build are:

1. C0 is shown on the schematic as 22pF. Does the type of capacitor matter? I assume any ceramic disc, MLCC, or box film cap would work, but wanted to check. I have a 22pF MLCC on hand and plan to use that.

2. The third line of the clean buffer instructions says "Attach C3 input to C2 + pad. [Audio jack] Input + will now need to be connected to pin 2 of RV1."

Can I get some clarification on these instructions? For the second part, it looks like the easiest solution is to solder a jumper between pads 3 and 2 of RV1?

I'm not sure about the first part -- C3 is soldered in place, correct? And I guess a jumper on the underside of the PCB between the pad of C3 closest to C0, and the C2 + pad? It's not to the pad of C3 closest to C7, correct?

3. Unrelated to the clean buffer alterations, what is the best way to mount the PCB in an enclosure? I will likely use PCB-mounted jacks for J2 and J3, but use wiring to remotely mount the Vol and Tone knobs. What's the best way to secure the PCB to allow access to the aux and headphone jacks?

Many thanks!
Ken