Schematic says it's a 2K linear.
EDIT: Ooops... 5 days too late... Have you fixed it yet?
EDIT: Ooops... 5 days too late... Have you fixed it yet?
30% off all Honey Amp kits, check it out at https://store.ssguitar.com !
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Counterfeit VS. Authentic TDA2050 audio amplifier ic test
Counterfeit parts have been a problem for many years. Let's do a comparison test of the TDA2050 audio IC to see the difference in performance.
Quote from: dazz on November 25, 2018, 01:44:14 PM
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So someone suggested a charge pump chip to produce the symmetric supply (an LT1054 or ICL7660(S)), but I decided against it because for all I know, the result is not really symmetric, being the negative rail weaker (my LTSpice simulations show that with a 10mA load it's more like +17V/-16V) and I fear that might induce asymmetrical clipping. Are my concerns here justified or am I simply talking nonsense?
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Quote from: flester on November 10, 2018, 03:27:41 PM
Yes the plug that won't work is TRS and it's the same with my other pedals. Explain?
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Quote from: dlbraly on July 17, 2018, 10:50:51 PM
Let me rephrase that
Please teach me how to figure out a replacement part.
Do I look at data sheets?
quick google someone said 2n5457 - so I guess I need to compare data sheets on those.
Quote from: phatt on June 17, 2018, 08:20:21 AMI've recently run across your PhAbbtone circuit, and will be the next thing I test. A usable midrange would be nice, though I've found a flat midrange is enough. I haven't noticed much issue with noise in the ToneMender circuit, but then again, maybe I'm just used to it
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As to tone controls, be aware that "Tone mender" has a noise penalty but then most passive tone circuits do come with the old *Insertion loss* and as they are Hi Z they tend to pickup noise if your design and layout is a bit sloppy.
I spent many years bread boarding and building tone control circuits and the one that impressed me most was the HiWatt circuit. <3)
The most frustrating part was learning how to circumvent the noise problems. I doubt one will ever win the S/N battle but my PhAbbtone circuit is very quite when compared to Tonemender.
This will certainly work and (unlike fender and similar) has a midrange control that actually WORKS.
This gives a big round bass as well as bright treble,, May even be too bright for your liking but you mentioned adding a top cut which is a good idea,, I just use a cab sim which has similar effect.
QuoteThe other circuit that impresses me is a simple compressor that a FSBI've seen that one as well. I like the simplicity. I've thought about having a compressor/limiter on the end of the chain just before the power amp just to keep things tame going into the watt generator, but that might not work as well as I think. I prefer a comp at the beginning of the chain, and even then mostly for clean stuff. Come to think of it, maybe a good compressor circuit might work well as a second channel if I decide to make this a channel-switching amp. Not that I do much clean playing... 8|
member *mictester* designed and posted.
Original post here BUT you will have to be a member to read it.
http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8581&hilit=really+simple+compressor
QuoteIf any interest I can post my Cab sim circuit as well?By all means. That might make a good dedicated-out for headphone practice or in situations where I don't have access to a computer to play cab simulator (Yes, I know...). Most cab sim circuits I've tried range from "is this thing on?" to "Good lord, what speaker is THAT supposed to be?". Hopefully yours is different.
QuoteRegarding Power Amp design.Thank you for your insight on that. When I first ran across the CFB idea, it simply made sense to me, even though I suspected it wasn't a huge difference in the sound (or else we'd ALL have CFB amplifiers in our home and car stereos). That and Rod Elliott mentioned that CFB might add a little margin of safety for the speakers (emphasis on 'might' and 'little' ). I also have one of those 70 volt PA distribution transformers, which I bought a loooooooong time ago in anticipation of building a low-wattage tube amp. Maybe I'll save that one for the eventual MOSFET experiments...
In My limited experience (hey it's only a hobby for me)
I've researched and tested Current FB setups on SS power amps and although it does alter the outcome it's a not mind blowing difference.
I've played a few SS peavey amps with Sat control (I think that is what it's called) and it does alter the outcome a bit but I suspect that a SS power stage running an output transformer might reap far better results. but that bumps up the cost
At high volume CFB seems to help but for home use it may not be audible.
I have a massive Factory type PA amp which has 70/100 volt output transformer as well as an 8 Ohm tap which does a good job of replicating a cranked Valve power stage but same limitation, you don't notice it at low volume.
QuoteOh yes,,good looking job on that guitar. :dbtu: :dbtu:Thanks, I haven't been able to put it down since I built it, which makes things a bit inconvenient when I think about doing a few details like shielding the cavities, taming a few wily fret levels, or tweaking the tone control. I've also noticed it really does need a belly cut. Age and a wife who's an amazing kitchenista has not bode well for my midsection.
Quote from: J M Fahey on June 17, 2018, 11:10:38 AMHoly smokes JM, those are some fancy lookin' amplificators. :dbtu: :dbtu:
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here´s some of the new stuff, which I introduced at the 2018 Convention of the Audio Engineering Society Buenos Aires branch:
Quote from: R.G. on June 17, 2018, 01:31:56 PMI remember you from the stompbox forums. Your viewpoints have always been helpful, heresy or no 8|
As usual, I have a mildly heretical viewpoint.
QuoteChip amps do have fundamental limitations on their ability to dissipate power. As a practical matter, the TO-220 packages like the LM1875 can only really do a 20W amp out at the edge of reliability. The LM3886 and similar packages can get to about twice that and be reliable without gigantic heat sinks.Thank you for the insight. My current intention is to refill the unfortunate carcass of a late-80s Crate 'mini-stack' with my own design stuffed in the head and replacing the two 4x6" speaker arrangements with one 12" per cab. Using one chipamp per speaker would fulfill my wattage desires, and have a little more beef than what was originally there (two TDA2030s, one for each speaker, running at 10 watts each). Making these higher-powered chips run a little cooler would save me on power supply and heat sink costs. Glad I wasn't the only one thinking on those lines.
My solution to this is to use the LM3886, which is an incredible deal at about US$5 each, and use more of them. There are circuits to parallel them up for higher currents and better power dissipation, and to run them bridged for higher voltage. However, I would not use them that way.
The LM3886 is quite reliable (given a decent heatsink) at 30-40W output. Most guitar amps run one 12" speaker on about 30-50W of amplifier power. When it gets over that most amps run two 12s or four 12s. Why fight the 30W per speaker practice? Why not make one highish quality amplifier per speaker. They're easier and more reliable that way, as well as more adaptable to situations and portability.
I just went through this in designing a replacement/repair power amp for the Thomas Vox amps. I opted for using an LM3886 per 30W speaker load. This covers the Buckingham and Viscount with 8 ohm loads with one amp each. The Royal Guardsman needs two modules to run two 12s at 60W, and the Beatle needs four for 120W.
It is far easier to get a 30W amp to run right than to get a 120W or higher to run right. And replicating several small things can be simpler than making one big one.
I did a PCB that is about 2" by 3" and runs one LM3886. I found a suitable heat sink for under $8 at heatsinksusa.com. Antek offers the AS-0522 toroidal transformer for $17.50, and this is a nearly ideal transformer to power the LM3886. You can fit the whole amplifier on one heatsink serving as a sub-chassis, power supply included.
And if one fails, you've thoughfully made one more power amp module than you really needed, so you swap in the spare while you fix the broken one.
Just sayin' ...
Quote from: flester on June 16, 2018, 06:03:28 AM
I like the guitar project. I also took inspiration from Ovation electrics using the Viper body shape.