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Messages - thehallofshields

#1
I thought I'd bring some closure to this thread.

I've been using the amp for over a month now with no issues. I contacted the Orange rep and he shipped me a replacement multi-effect module covered by warranty. I popped that in and I'm back to 100%.

Thanks everyone for troubleshooting and the help understanding transformers.
#2
Okay. I'm gonna leave it running for an hour tonight, then open it up and check for heat. Anything else I should look for while its popped open?
#3
Okay; Painstakingly transferred the 3 pole connector. Plugged in and....

It works!

The Multieffects Unit doesn't seem to be functioning properly, I think its stuck making a mild tremolo, but the Tuner is still in good shape.

I'm very happy. Thank you all for the lesson.
#4
Okay. The Radio Shack Manager tried to sell me an 18v wall wart... I went over to Fry's Electronics and bought a proper replacement: http://www.frys.com/product/6148309?source=googleps&gclid=CJiZ0-nJk70CFYZAMgodCC8AKA

The Primary Stage reads 34.5ohms on the input. It looks ready to go.

Is there anything I should check before I wire this up? Is there a high risk that the fuse will blow in the new one?
#5
Excellent. Thank you very much.

I have an Open Circuit at the Primary Stage, and very low resistance (~3ohms) between the wires at the Secondary Stage.

The Transformer Reads:

I/P: AC115V 50/60hz
O/P: AC18V*2/1A

Thermal Cuttoffs 130*C/2A


I called Radioshack, they have a AC120V-AC18V for about $20, but it was only rated at 1 Amp. About $22. My least favorite place to buy parts, but I'd like to spend my time this weekend getting the amp running.

Any tips on where to find or order a replacement?
#6
Quote from: Roly on March 14, 2014, 08:27:19 AM
18VAC each side of the centre tap less a diode drop of around 0.7V is 18 - 0.7 = 17.3.  When rectified this will give an unloaded voltage of root(2) times, or 17.3 * 1.414 = 24.5VDC (roughly, a bit less depending on the idle current drawn by the amp).

Wow. I didn't realize that rectification increased voltage. Makes sense though. I'm not very mathematically inclined; how did you get 1.414?
#7
Quote from: Roly on March 14, 2014, 08:27:19 AMThese two observations appear to be contradictory.

I was referring to the switch. When the Switch is on I read 19ohms resistance. Maybe that's enough to drop the 120v down to 119.3v that I'm reading at the switch terminal. Either way, it doesn't seem to be a problem. - I'm sorry for the confusion.

I'm really struggling to understand what I should be checking to determine if I need to replace the transformer.

1.) How can I check the wires for continuity? - One side of each wire terminates inside the transformer which is wrapped in tape.

2.)What resistances should I be reading between the wires?
#8
Okay, I'm certain the mains switch is fine. I've also tried 2 other power plugs.

When it's plugged in and off, I read 0 Volts (negative clipped to chassis ground) on the brown wire terminal, when it's plugged in and on, I read 119.3v.

When unplugged and off I read an infinite resistance, and when unplugged and switched on I read 19ohms resistance.

Sorry about the crappy picture; the 2 unplugged connectors go to the speaker, they are still zip tied to the other wires but I should have moved them out of the way.

However: I measure Infinite Resistance (at the 2mega-ohm setting) between the positive and negative wire of the transformers input. Do you call the Transformers Input the Primary and the Transformers Output the Secondary? Do I have a bad 'primary'?
#9
Okay! Interesting discovery: No Voltage at the Transformers Output.







There are 3 wires on the connector, 2 blue AC wires and 1 black Ground. I get 0v AC whether the connector is plugged into the board or disconnected or whether the power switch is on or off.

#10
Roly,

The Switch and the Fuse have both been checked with a multimeter, and they appear to be fine.

I've also tested the Diodes in the Rectifier section on the Diode Test setting of the Multimeter, and I couldn't find any problems. - However I did this while the amp was unplugged.

I understand you right, I should have the amp plugged in and test that the Transformer Output is around AC18v as the sticker on it says it should be. Then I should check the Output of the Rectifier, so see if I get the same Voltage, minus several volts to account for the voltage drop across the diodes; I'm gonna guess I'm looking for about 15v?
#11
I'll look around for some schematics, but I doubt it will be an easy find. The only one I can find is for the Crush 15r which has been posted here before.

I had the guitar plugged in, on its stand. The amp was set to a pretty low-medium volume. Left it for about 5 minutes, came back thinking I must have accidentally turned it off.
#12
Amp died on me while I was in the bathroom. No LED Power, no Sound.

Outlet - Check
Cable - Check
Fuse - Check
I/O Switch - Check
Wires - Check
Connectors - Check

Diodes Near Rectifier - Check

What should I check next?

#13
I can bring some close to this thread.

I had the same problem. Turns out you have to remove the handle.

Thanks J M Fahey.