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Messages - MurphyPeoples

#16
Quote from: Enzo on January 07, 2017, 06:47:01 PM
I recommend against putting metal Switchcraft jacks in there.  First, they will not have the auxilliary switching the Fender jacks do.  Second, they will not adhere to the original grounding scheme.    The real jacks will last a long time if one simply respects them.  I have replaced many of them, yes, but think of the thousands of those amps that did NOT need new jacks.

The real jacks are easy enough to find.

They used to sell them loose, and they had the old part number.   Then they started packing them in poly bags with a cardboard peg hole top label, and they got a new part number for that packaging.

Thanks sir! It's interesting that I've found several websites with OEM Fender Jacks (#031570) for $6.95 and up. But then there's this site:
http://www.amprepairparts.com/fenderjacks.htm
And he sells 9 pin for $1.95 each. (6 packs for $9.95!) Has anyone bought from them before? I worry that "if it's too good to be true..."     ;)
#17
Quote from: galaxiex on January 07, 2017, 05:18:51 PM
Digital Signal Processor

The DSP amp has digital effects built in.

Oooookay. : ) That makes perfect sense! lol
Thanks.
#18
Thanks guys! Yes, I'm in the USA. I haven't found the schematic yet, only for the Princeton Chorus "DSP" (What does DSP mean?) - and looking at that schematic the DSP board is different.
Thanks for the leads on inputs! I'll get some on order. I appreciate the replies!
Murphy
Clinton, SC
#19
Well, I'm beginning to think that my problem is actually in the input jack. Inspecting the underside of the board, I noticed that there was flux still located
all around the #1 input jack. Plus, on second look, the jack is completely different brand the all the others. Using a 1/4" plug, it fits "okay" but not as tight as #2. Plus the #1 input is slightly smaller and doesn't fit in line symmetrically with all the other jacks on the board. It actually sits about 1/8" lower towards the board than all the others. The soldier connections might have been cracked when the board was threaded back into the housing from it sitting lower than OEM. This just screams to me... replace me!

So I'm going to order a few 1/4" fender 9 pin jacks. "A few" because the #2 input - though OEM - is missing a chrome ring just inside the female connection. As you can see... this is all new to me! LOL.
But I've been repairing Electromechanical Pinball Machines for years, so this seems pretty straight forward. I'll replace both main input jacks.

Any suggestions on where to order Fender SS electronics? I'd like to deal with someone you folks would recommend. Again, thanks in advance.
Murphy
#20
Here's a shot of the right side of the board also.
Murph
#21
Hello. This is my first post to SSGuitar. I purchased a Fender Princeton Chorus for my 16yo daughter. It's great, but boy is the Volume Control knob on Input 1 touchy!
It will go from Normal volume to 10 as you dial up or down the sound. If you fiddle with the knob back or forth, you can get it back to normal. I'm pretty handy with electronics, and I've gone ahead and pulled
the board out. I plan on checking all the suspect soldier joints and reflowing them. And cleaning out all the pots with D5.

Any other hints you might provide will be greatly appreciated! I've posted a pic of the board. Looks like it was pulled and tested in '98? Also, did the 9836 caps originally have hot glue melted between them for shock absorption?
If not, this has been done too. (I had planned on doing that lol)
Thanks again. Warmest regards,
Murphy