Thanks for the continued help Roly.
This is indeed a mylk[386] amp build now. I think there is going to be some speaker cabinet building thrown in too, but I'm going to try to get the amp squared away first.
So I started putting together a BOM for Tayda electronics, and I have some questions on part choices. I attached the BOM as well as a copy of the vero board in .png format. These questions are more or less in the order of your reply.
1. By far my biggest concern is electrocuting myself. Just to make things crystal clear, a 12VDC, 200mA wall wart will power the amp sufficiently, correct? The amp will be switched on and off by the input jack too, correct? You mentioned a filter cap; what value should I use and where does it go on the board? It is okay to completely do away with the battery power, correct? I loathe 9V batteries for some reason.
2. Unfortunately the mylk site is down, but I remembered to save some of the pages. For the decoupling cap (C9), they wrote "If you are planning to build the circuit with lower gain and /or using it through a full size guitar speaker you may want to raise the value to 10uf. 1uf is perfect for a tight high gain sound but may leave the clean and semi clean tones a little bit glassy and sharp for your tastes. 10uf sounds great for clean and "just breaking up" Jimi Hendrix tones but may lead to high gain sounds being a bit farty and unfocused." I don't want farty sounds, that's why I thought in between (4.7uF) might be good. Are you saying that I should go with the 10uF cap?
Is the 2200uF cap you refer to here what I should use for the power filter cap from question 1?
3. I was planning on using IC sockets. I've used machine tooled sockets in the past, but saw that there are some cheaper sockets. In regards to quality, you're talking about the machined sockets right?
4. So, without the 3k3 in series, does that mean I can use any LED, or should I change the 3k3 based on what color LED I want? I specced for a red 3mm LED. What size is usually used on amps?
5. Some questions as I put together the BOM.
I specced for 1/4W resistors (except for the power resistor which is 1W). Is 1/4W enough for this application or should I go up to 1/2W?
Likewise, I specced the capacitors for 25V or more. Is this adequate?
I was looking over the parts list I saved from the web site and the output jack is specified as a switched mono jack. What is the purpose, if any, of a switch in the output jack? Can I just substitute a standard (guitar) jack.
Is there any rule for mounting pots, switches and jacks? I mean do I have to worry about pots/jacks/switches being too close to each other? Ideally I'd like the pots, switches, LED and input jack on the front (with room to add two tone controls down the road), but that sounds a bit cramped for a standard enclosure.
Finally, how do I mount the PCB board to the enclosure? Standoffs glued to the box? Is there a good place to buy these?
That's enough to deal with for now. Thanks for reading.
Edit: Whoops . I just noticed I put down the wrong value on the BOM for R9 (power resistor) it should be a 10ohm, 1W, not a 1k. It's actually specced as 8ohm, so hopefully the extra 2 ohms aren't a huge problem.
This is indeed a mylk[386] amp build now. I think there is going to be some speaker cabinet building thrown in too, but I'm going to try to get the amp squared away first.
So I started putting together a BOM for Tayda electronics, and I have some questions on part choices. I attached the BOM as well as a copy of the vero board in .png format. These questions are more or less in the order of your reply.
1. By far my biggest concern is electrocuting myself. Just to make things crystal clear, a 12VDC, 200mA wall wart will power the amp sufficiently, correct? The amp will be switched on and off by the input jack too, correct? You mentioned a filter cap; what value should I use and where does it go on the board? It is okay to completely do away with the battery power, correct? I loathe 9V batteries for some reason.
2. Unfortunately the mylk site is down, but I remembered to save some of the pages. For the decoupling cap (C9), they wrote "If you are planning to build the circuit with lower gain and /or using it through a full size guitar speaker you may want to raise the value to 10uf. 1uf is perfect for a tight high gain sound but may leave the clean and semi clean tones a little bit glassy and sharp for your tastes. 10uf sounds great for clean and "just breaking up" Jimi Hendrix tones but may lead to high gain sounds being a bit farty and unfocused." I don't want farty sounds, that's why I thought in between (4.7uF) might be good. Are you saying that I should go with the 10uF cap?
Is the 2200uF cap you refer to here what I should use for the power filter cap from question 1?
3. I was planning on using IC sockets. I've used machine tooled sockets in the past, but saw that there are some cheaper sockets. In regards to quality, you're talking about the machined sockets right?
4. So, without the 3k3 in series, does that mean I can use any LED, or should I change the 3k3 based on what color LED I want? I specced for a red 3mm LED. What size is usually used on amps?
5. Some questions as I put together the BOM.
I specced for 1/4W resistors (except for the power resistor which is 1W). Is 1/4W enough for this application or should I go up to 1/2W?
Likewise, I specced the capacitors for 25V or more. Is this adequate?
I was looking over the parts list I saved from the web site and the output jack is specified as a switched mono jack. What is the purpose, if any, of a switch in the output jack? Can I just substitute a standard (guitar) jack.
Is there any rule for mounting pots, switches and jacks? I mean do I have to worry about pots/jacks/switches being too close to each other? Ideally I'd like the pots, switches, LED and input jack on the front (with room to add two tone controls down the road), but that sounds a bit cramped for a standard enclosure.
Finally, how do I mount the PCB board to the enclosure? Standoffs glued to the box? Is there a good place to buy these?
That's enough to deal with for now. Thanks for reading.
Edit: Whoops . I just noticed I put down the wrong value on the BOM for R9 (power resistor) it should be a 10ohm, 1W, not a 1k. It's actually specced as 8ohm, so hopefully the extra 2 ohms aren't a huge problem.