One of my laboratory exercises required a 22k ohm resistor 

Up until now I haven't really been a fan of the color code system but I think I really like it now.

Because honestly it stuck out like a sore thumb

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So yeah now I think it's a cool system but I have a much better time of looking to see what colors I need and then looking for that rather than trying to decipher faded colors trying to figure out what they are 

And then the four color to me is kind of a can of worms 

It started out like geddy and ended up like geezer 

Yes sir thanks after watching that I remembered so many times waiting for what seemed like an eternity for solder to melt.
especially outside sitting there sweating or whatever
Or the solder melts and it's this big blob that sticks to the tip and it refuses to go where I want it to so it's like a booger on your finger you can't get off   
Also wow I also used to think that every soldering iron tip had to look like an ice pick 
(I know somewhere those ice pick tips have a purpose but idk what it is)

I thought it was killer 

Almost heard a little N.I.B. at 5:27 

Yes Viva I'talia for this


  

Ok maybe it's that not big of a deal. it seems R1 and R2 are "bleeder resistors" 

So the previous problems I was working had an open format

It was called a two power supply emitter controlled circuit 

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So the next set of problems it is closed and is called universal circuit biasing 

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So why all the excitement  well at least it (to me) resembles something actually encountered in real life like in the wild 

And it starts to somewhat resemble the diagrams of common emitter, common collector and common base.

Speaking of which I need to have a major epiphany because every time I look at the three diagrams I see the same damn thing so I start looking at what is connected to what and....it all comes out the same. 

But that is coming up and I saw that there are capacitaters involved so all in due time..

And I know one is the most common    and inverts a signal. 🚦

 

Well little did I know the fun actually was NOT 🚫🚭 over

I had pulled C23 as well and checked it ✅✔️

No smoking gun so I put everything back together

Or so I thought


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I plugged it back in turned it on and to my horror the relays were clicking so bad it sounded like a bowl of rice crispies (or Orville Reddenbocker)

So I thought I had plugged something in wrong or left something unplugged but it looked ok
Then I started wondering if I soldered the transistors in backwards.

Well here is a pic with C24 removed

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I had written down on my notes C24 at the top so when I glanced to look for the markings I thought top to bottom = left to right.

Oh well

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Time to do it again....more practice 

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Now it's back to where it is working like before .

 

Oh well I guess I've had my fun for the night



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Anyhow so much for my plan getting voltage readings and stuff.  Because the boards face inward and the only way I can get access to the top of a board is by unplugging everything

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Besides why do that when you can do bonehead stuff like remove components for no reason except that somewhere sometime some guy amongst the entire world 🌎 had that part go bad

Oh well I need some practice anyway.

So I removed Q24

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To be fair i did diode and resistance checks but yeah I guess in circuit they could mean anything.

So while all the cool people in town are partying and getting lit and spending hundreds of dollars on fireworks 🎆 🎇 guess what my excitement is:

Testing this PNP device on my peak atlas.

Oh wait I have a multimeter I'll do that first

 

It occurred to me that when checking transistors in circuit power on I can:

Locate the collector and emitter resistors

Measure voltage drops across each

Look at color codes to determine value of resistors

Divide voltage  ➗ by resistance to obtain a value for current

Compare Ic to Ie

Pause to reflect on discoveries

Attempt to draw a conclusion(s)

 

Thank you sir it's nice to know heavy hitters like you and Mr DMeek don't take this lightly.

Btw I found this on the interwebz

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/topward-6303a-repair/msg5382143/#msg5382143

I know it's ill advised to start shotgunning parts but I ordered some 2sa1015 anyway and I'm thinking about shooting on sight. 

I already have a bunch of 1815s.

And I already replaced an 1815....and surprise surprise it didn't fix it 

Yes sir thanks I did remove the cover power on and do some rapping on the relays and moving the boards around a little to no avail. 

But I did discover something.....

The slave voltage has full range in parallel mode 

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And stops at about ten volts in independent and series mode

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I appreciate your help I know this is pretty complicated 

It's velly intresting 

Thank you sir I will definitely give that a try this evening   

Ok sorry they are C22 and C23 and polarity is marked (duh) 

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