Yeech. Marshall JTM 30.

[Amp]

Talked about it a bit here.
http://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?topic=2898.0

You guys weren't lying about the heat issues.

I thought I had it conquered with cleaning contacts but today, I plugged in for a little jam, got no action and a bit of smoke out the back. Haven't even cracked it open to see what I'm up against, but it's non-functional at this time.

Seeing as I have a whopping $35 in it and I could part it out and make 5X that on the auction site, I'm comfortable with putting a few dollars into this one and making it right.

No sooner than I talk about doing a project that requires soldering, I get this. Speak of the devil.  :lmao:

So, the situation is this.
Marshall JTM 30 1X12.
Not working.
Got a bit of smoke.
What is Step 1?

Also, I've got my soldering iron in but have yet to purchase solder. There's an array of choices which I do not understand. What is the best type for this sort of work?

Thanks much guys.

[phatt]

OH! Sad to hear,, but not surprised 
Just Pull the lid and see what smoked and maybe some pics of the damage.
I think Roly mentioned get the biggest transformer you can find that can actually handle the current needed.

As to solder,, plain 60/40 solder is what is needed anything that mentions *lead free* stay well away it will likely hamper progress.
A cheap $15 40Watt soldering iron is all I use.
Phil.

[Roly]

This is very much a matter of firstly "follow your nose" and secondly "have a good look".  Once you find out what has fried it will point you to what to do/test next.  One of the most common things to fry are the resistors in the screen grids of EL34/6CA7's when they fail.  But have a good look - smoke generally means a short or really excessive load.  The burnt resistor will tell you what and where, then you have to find out why.

The best sort of solder for electronic work is resin-cored 60/40% lead/tin, and "copper loaded" if you can find it.  You don't need very fine gauge - about 2mm.  Do not touch anything that mentions plumbing, acid flux, galvanized soldering, or 50/50.