And additional question...
Taking everyone's advice and trying to be very careful of the board and traces, I did notice there was a "bridged" solder joint between these two (in photo below, not sure if I caused),  used desolder iron quickly to remove most, is there a preferred method for getting the remaining that bridges between without risking damage?
I think it's between the legs of C48 and C49 (labled >IJ63 part number?)
thanks

Thanks for everyone's help thus far...
Couple of observations.
1. Still have 3.5-3.7vdc across speaker leads (unconnected).
2. When I power down, small light pulse from gain cuircuit indicator light (maybe that's totally normal) but I thought it may mean something to someone.

3.I ran DC voltage tests on C37-40, and have one result that wasn't what I expected on C40 the (-14.2vdc showed up on negative leg not positive leg?)

attached is sketch of what I found.
(I think I have it sized ok...)

So... I wasn't going to mess with this for a day or so (but I can't help myself with all the help)

Thanks to Tonyharker I have the schematic...  and to answer his question, I haven't read Schematics before. I am familiar with basic A/C home wiring, and D/C simple automotive type wiring. 
But I'm going to need some help, what the schematic "should" be telling me,  on the test procedures now.
I did go buy a cheap Radio Shack desoldering iron/bulb combo.
Phatt..
I'm still thinking back to the number 1 guitar input jack swinging by two legs from the board when I first opened it up.  Is there reason to think that either the soldering (that I did or a defect in the jack ) could still be causing my issue...
Otherwise
I"ve located C37,C38 and also C39,40 on both the board and the schematic.
Looking at the Fender load comments on the schematic:
To test C39 & C40:  Test DC with no input signal?
1.power amp on (speaker unhooked, and light bulb limiter not in circuit), no guitar plugged in, all knobs to 0.
Then test between ( + )  leg of each to chassis ground
and C39 should be +13v dc?, and C40 should be -13v dc?
It looks like can be done from the top of board easily, if that's what I'm really looking for.
Now... C37 & C38
C37 positive leg to chassis ground =   +15vdc
C38 positive leg to chassis ground=  -15vdc
Again little tighter but still looks like can get probe on + leg from top of board.
Pics below.
Comments/direction?
Thanks

So...
1. I tried the light bulb limiter, with a 40w bulb, get a "low" glow when turned on.
2. Again hum is REALLY loud, unusable... didn't see to change after reflowing some more joints... but I need to get some desoldering wick... some aren't too "good" (tried to add a little solder)
3. Did plug in guitar and I can still get sound,  with enough volume (on amp and guitar) it equals or rises above the hum, since hum doesn't change with volume. The bulb didn't seem to change much/any with playing briefly.
4. Did seem to be a some amount of distortion (like  the gain channel) almost.
That's all the farther I'm going to get for a day or so, but welcome any other suggestions/next steps.
5. I did make the mistake of wiping off the thermal grease between pan and alum. block.. so if sucessful I'll need to replace.  (but it has made no difference)

Thanks for help (again),  just changed laptops no photo editing programs.  Your suggestion IS very handy, (and the fact it's from CNET download),  made it feel safe.
Here are downsized pics. (hopefully)

Here are a couple of pics of transformer... looks a little worse than I  thought... hmmm.

I'll get some pics of board etc, up latter.

I'll try light bulb limiter as well.

Is there anyway to check the jack that was lifting from the board intially... continuity , etc? that would tell me if it was broken as a result of only being anchored by the back "legs"

Wow...

what response, I'll be away for a few days, I get the photos and upload those upon return.

I did see the light bulb limiter in a search before I posted, so I can try that as well.

I did have the speaker disconnected with the 3.4v dc read, sorry I wasn't clear, I'll try a read with the speaker connected later as well.
thanks for all the help thus far

Hi...

Looking for some help with an amp problem.  Retired now and looking to get back into some playing.  Picked up a Fender Champion 30 with a problem hoping for an easy fix for a small practice amp.

Amp has a very loud hum, unusable, when turned on.  Here is what I have observed or tried so far.
1.   Hum is present with all controls at 0, doesn't change with movement of any controls, did seem to be a pop, crackle (dirty pot type noise) with reverb control, after some movement now doesn't seem to cause any change/noise
2.   Plug in guitar hum still present at same volume, can hear guitar in/behind hum.
3.   Pulled chassis and number 1 input jack legs were loose (the 2 legs closest to front of amp) to the point the jack actually lifted slightly off of board when turned over.
4.   Resoldered jack, no change in hum level
5.   Looked for other cold solder joint, reflowed a couple, no change
6.   Disconnected reverb tank, no change
7.   Tried this speaker with a different amp, sounded fine
8.   Checked DC voltage at the speaker leads... consistently 3.6v dc when turned on, bleeds off to 0 when turned off.
9.   There are a few brown sticky dots on the transformer and a series of dark spots on the bottom of the aluminum pan in a pattern out about 8"but it doesn't look like "tar". Not knowing the former life of the amp, could be as simple as a spilled/splashed soft drink?, they wipe off with a wet cloth.

Suggestion for next steps?,  I don't have any other test equipment, but my trusty mulitmeter. Thanks for your help.