Of course there's always the possibility that the decision to LOOK at the equipment forked you into another universe :lmao: :lmao:

although I try to avoid them. NTE has a cross referenced part  I would carefully compare data sheets befor using it though.

I'm a bit confused on the Peavey you actually have.

The guitar amps Peavey made in hat era usually have a DIN jack that is used to select/combine channels. How about posting a pic of the front of that amp?

those pickguards are probably very close or the same as an SX pickguard I tried from Rondo guitars (19 USD).

To be truthful the ONLY loaded pickguards I have ever been completely happy with were those from Carvin, and "Golden Age" from Stewart MacDonald Luthier supply

You didn't have specifics on the speaker, but usually a 120 Watt 10" speaker is designed for bass/pa not guitar.

With TDA20X0 amps I have best results (with guitar) with Alnico 10" (eminence or jensen) in the 30 Watt range. I usually use 2 of these. They are expensive though. I Think weber signatures are more economical

Actually I AM using that kind of setup currently with a pair of slightly modified Fender Frontman 15g amps (variable voicing DI added) and a 2X TDA2050 power amp (stereo) as a studio amp

With a good preamp you should be able to get some really nice sounds out of your project,

FWIW that Ppwer amp runs the 2050s at 40V and 4 ohms output but with a MUCH larger heatsink which is mounted to the back of the chassis.

The heatsink I used with TDA2050s is Actually a large aluminum one used originally as a passive heatsink (no fan) on HP Pentium 3 business model computers

If this is your amp: values are shown....but it doesn't show "lead section" wwith seperate pots

http://schematicheaven.com/newamps/roland_blues_cube30_60.pdf

Just a thought...I am having trouble visualizing this setup....but wonder if piezo A/E bridge components would work...would be expensive though...

actually some of these "junk" amps sound pretty good when used in the right way for the right type of music. I have a relative that never understands that...he keeps buying things like a vintage twin reverb and "boutique" (Bassman/early Marshall circuit type) to play metal, and of course is unhappy!

OTOH I have had some surprises with SS Fenders particularly some of the cheap ones!  I had bought a couple of broken Frontman 15gs for my grandkids and fixed them. When testing I plugged one of them into my old Sound City 2X10 Cabinet (alnico 10s) It had a really sweet clean sound with those speakers. Reminded me of my Princeton Reverb (my first new amp) back in '64.

One thing about these amps (Fender SS) is all of them have quite good clean tone. This means that although they were unhappy with some old analogue effects they all should do quite well with Digital effects.

shoulda used cream ones and recovered with brown tolex  would've worked even better. :lmao:

QuoteThanks for links. No hums. I tested in circuit. One problem I always had with this stack is that the effect loop has to have a cable plugged into it (one cable plugged in both jacks) to make it work. What I call capacitors might be the output tubes you referenced (JM Fahey) My pics are too large to post on this site, even when I zip the file! I could probably email.

It actually sounds like the first thing you should do with this amp is clean the jacks and pots etc with deoxit( or equivalent) and possibly change the jacks and go from there.

capacitors don't need to be replaced with the exact item.  just go to Mouser, Digikey or Newark electronics, Antique radio supply. ( or other) and use a capacitor with the same values. I assume from 2200 it's an electrolytic. I prefer Mouser. They have a search that let's you specify values and links to datasheets so you can check physical dimensions.

If one electrolytic in an amp is bad often it is a convenient time to change all electrolytics. The other types seldom go bad with age (except wax and paper covered ones and your amp is way too recent for them)

hmm  8| lot of midrange cut = extra power needed...I would look at maybe http://sound.westhost.com/project27.htm maybe TWO of these if you are going to play out possibly with a more gainy preamp
maybe the whole preamp board out of something like a crate gx??? or ampeg vh??? complicated preamps for a project but you could feasibly get a working preamp board out of an ebay "as is" (I've gotten these amps broken from ebay as low as 15 dollars)

I didn't say randall...as I don't think  they used seperate preamp boards...not sure.

example: a crate gx130c or cxl uses a preamp that is powered through resistors/zeners easily adaptable to elliot's power amps.
( you would need 2 for this preamp)
however: copying a randall/loud tech preamp would be a quite difficult project

check the tube pin contacts: they often spread and don't make good contact. Some blue is often normal with mordern tubes (often test gassy too...not as deep a vaccumm) however loose tubes can cause lots of problems. As you saw a change when tapping the tubes  would take a good look at contacts AND clean any carbon trails off of the sockets especially since you started with a redplating problem on this amp.

http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/M/P/S/6/MPS6530.shtml

looks the same...flat should be as in the layout linked earlier on this thread

looking at notes: I used 2n3642 per peavey cross reference list.

check your data sheets: make sure you are putting them in correctly

The last ones I bought had a different pin out from the original peavey transistors