antique radio supply (tubesandmore.com) has the fender jacks.  

I've gotten them from Mouser too...but they of course list them by the manufacturer.

Can't find the old invoice...but think it's one of the Kobiconn ones at mouser...you might need to check a couple of data sheets

seriously  unless you want to learn a lot...or you are PREFORMING and NEED this take a look at preamps that go on your belt...like LR Baggs OR an endpin preamp ( try stewmac.com) They are made exactly for your purpose.

If you want to build something then there ARE schematics around for a homade endpin preamp...including kits on ebay but I haven't seen one yet I would perform with.(not shielded well enough)

OTOH it sounds like your pickup is low impedance...simply putting a mike preamp on top of the guitar amp ,even something like a 59 dollar behringer xenyx will have you in business also.

if all else fails you could borrow/base your design on Fender frontman/15/15g design The later versions of this use a TDA2050

amp doesn't have a thermistor...just a cap

Quotecan't see the wiring clearly enough but Bry Melvin may see more than myself.

Actually the info is USING A SCHEMATIC

QuoteThat Capacitor looking device could be a *Varistor* which would be in series with the mains and not to ground.
If it's a Capacitor then it would be across the mains wires and not to ground.

Again the schematic shows it as a cap and to ground.

I'd post the schematic but the forum keeps telling me it's here already so you might want to search for it.

The power cord should have black green and white wires:

White goes to fuse
black goes to switch
green goes to chassis

The power transformer black leads go to:

the Other side of the switch
The other side of the fuse

That transformer side of the fuse also goes to a .0027 capacitor which in turn also goes to ground
Hope this helps:

in short...the power amp is actually two chip amps one for each speaker. They are low cost ICs that have a tab that bolts to a heat sink usually with an electrically insulating washer and five pins soldered to a board. The chips plus installation kit (washer insulator and screw and nut) should cost less than 10USD from somewhere like Mouser.

Cheap enough to go ahead find them change them and see if it works, without diagnostic tools etc. You just carfeully disassemble enough to get to the chips replace, then reassemble.

my amp from high school was a Princeton reverb and Super Reverb. I did rent Sunns for bigger venues. FWIW I was 17 at Woodstock

I Rember wanting to try the Acoustics...the Doors were using them.

also see if voltage is GETTING to the fuse....these type of amps have problems with the header  (multiwire connector to left of fuses)

Good time to practice SAFETY meter lead clipped to earth...one hand on meter lead...other in your pocket..feet insulated

There are several China/Honkong based outfits with high ratings that have 7293/4 and 3886 amp boards kit and finished. I have bought a few of these boards for TDA20x0s without problems Have also bought bulk resistors etc also.

Just search TDA7294 or LM3886 on ebay

It looks like the bridge rectifier in your pic....Shoud have markings  usually~ ~ +- on one side of it. Not sure if 4 amps is enough for this amplifier What is the power consunption of this thing?   

BTW that wouldn't be an LED connected to that recifier at that V...probably is and looks like a neon pilot light.

QuoteIf it comes down to it, wire a dedicated ground from your sink to your amps ground plug. While your water lines will often serve as the ground for every socket in the house, a dedicated line can sometimes eliminate an unknown source of noise in your house that might be your refrigerator or water heater.

Grounding at the sink is obsolete and useless in most modern housing. Metal plumbing is only used in a few areas (at least in the US) by code.

If you own your own property you can  add a ground to the earth with copper rod Newer code usually requires this at the electrical box, but one can be added grounding your studio filtered ac

Also CFR lighting is a disaster for studios. LOTS of emissions

In modern buildings power conditioning is almost a necessity for the studio. This can be coupled with large ups units that use transformers and MOVs for digital equipment protection. If you are NOT on the grid...solar etc it can get even more complicated as many inverters are not up to running musical equipment. They can actually damage some switching supplies.

QuoteHi bry melvin,
                  You say you have to *Rebias* when pulling 2 tubes?
You must have a strange amp? headscratch.

Well probably not HAVE to...but pulling the 100W's tubes (which we only so when a 50W JCM breaks down and the place is too small) changes the tone...colder ..soooo

never had one apart, but however they contain the biasing components(resistors at least) needed for the switch (cathode bias) and voltage drop. Other wise you could just rewire a socket saver!
not really that  expensive considering you leave your original bias setting alone. You then install them with the included tubes for ~120 per pair... OR buy them without tubes for 80 a pair. You end up with essentially two amps for that price. 100 watt/20 watt or a fifty/ten. You mark your bigger tubes so the bias is perfect when you put them back in ...you DON:T rebias for the el84s. The biggest fault with them is they WON'T fit in some heads

FWIW I actually started using those when 7591s were impossible to obtain for my 64 Guild amp(only a 20% drop in power for those) However I have also found them useful for my JCM 800s. Don;t have to rebias as You do when pulling tubes. So you can decide to use EL84 or 34 At SOUND CHECK time. Pulling tubes on the JCM 100 watts always messed up the bias on mine anyway.
and of course you CAN't pull tubes on a fifty watt JCM and it is STILL too loud for small venues as those HAVE to be either cranked or modded to keep from being too trebly.

Considering a current reissue JCM800 (or equivalent) is around 2000 and an 18watt Marshall type close to that they are actually a cost saver.

Lastly they don;t add wear...Attenuators are bad for tube life You essentially are diming it all the time.
Variacing the amp is even worse.

instead of an attenuator....take a look at Yellow Jacket adapters... (or tone bones) They take 6l6 and replace with el84

They work...with no internal mods necessary.