Thanks all, I haven't opened up again yet.  I realize I have some perfect wire for that repair.  Now a local guy wants to get it from me to fool with it (or maybe make it into a non-powered stage monitor) I might let him buy it.  I'll let you know if I go back in.  I'm a little afraid of taking out that TDA7294.  I guess I'll need a more pointy tip for my soldering iron.

One other question. I have a little peavey kb1 that I'm going to use as a powered monitor is there a merit in using this (now semi-famous) speaker, in the peavey?  Both are 4 ohm.

I'll let you know what happens after I hear from this guy.

Thanks that helps.  Here are the voltages I got with speakers disconnected. 

brown and orange lead -5.75 
black and red leads,    .13

Here's a picture of the front.  Hope this is what you meant.

Roly, Regarding the speaker.  I've attached a photo.  Again, sharing my ignorance.  I would assume that the hf (red and black) leads would go to the clips that go to the main speaker cone (further down toward the front) and the lf (orange and brown) go to the connectors on the very back of the speaker (where it says powerline) Of course, they are remaining disconnected until we feel it's okay to connect. 

Okay, thanks everyone.  I'll look up some info on what wire to use to bridge the trace.  I'm also going to check and make sure, but I'm pretty sure the tech that had it replaced that tda7294.  I think I'll talk to him some about what he did and tell him what I'm doing.  At least I'm having some fun working on this. 

@Roly, We're living in about the middle of Texas right now, USA.  I have a brother who lives in Warrandyte, Vic.  It was pretty cold the last couple of days but not like in the north. 

@DrGonz, I'll look over that sheet.  What I do is just pretend I know what I'm doing and so far so good.

The only weird thing on the numbers was at TP18 where it's supposed to be a +14.6 and I had a -.7  I might recheck this after fixing the trace. 

So I guess I just need a real fine wire for that trace repair (like the size of the connects on the other components?  I forget where I need to use heat sinks.   

Thanks all, this is quite fun.

Update....  I went ahead and began checking some of the other test points, since the thing is open, I have those numbers too, however, part way through the testing I noticed that the limiter bulb dimmed significantly.  I actually couldn't see the 100 watt bulb glowing, I put a 75 clear in there and could see some glow but it was pretty dim.  I went ahead and finished with the idea of posting this.  I went back to look at a few things on the circuit as I was reading some earlier posts and found a flaw in the board.  It seems to be the link from c27 to earth?  Not sure I'm reading it right.  Here's a pic.  Does this put me out of the game?  Can I drop a bit of solder on to repair? 

I can't tell you how excited I am that I was able to get readings.  They don't say what the schematic wants, but we'll see.  Since I'm not sure of myself on the procedure, I'll share what I did and you can laugh or cry.   

First, I disconnected the speakers and plugged the amp into the light limiter (which I'll always do)  :tu:

Second, with the guts pulled away from the box. I connected the black lead on my DMM to the black ground wire that normally runs from the board to the speaker frame.  I then touched the red lead to what I think are the points we're speaking of.  I just went to one side of (say D12 then D14) or the other.  I quickly figured out which side was which.  I hope this is right.  Again like where D12 goes into the board I just touched the red lead of my DMM there.  (I know some of you are cringing right now)

Here are the readings I got.  Oh and also, since some were asking earlier I rechecked the speaker output and it was... on the brown and orange lead -5.75  on the black and red leads, it was .13.

TP1     7.5 VAC
TP2     7.6 VAC
TP3     7.82 vdc
TP4    -7.73 vdc
TP5     19.1 vac
TP6     19.1 vac  (first time out it was 20.8 for TP5 and TP6)
TP7     19.1 vdc
TP8    -19.1 vdc
TP9       14.4 vdc
TP10   -15.6 vdc

There you have it.  I think, according to the schematic, that all of these are pretty low.  Also I noticed on that gray multiwire tape that runs from the power supply to the amp, the far left wire on the amp side was loose.  I pushed that back down into the clip and hope it's connected properly.  I did that all before the testing.  Thanks in advance for the advice.

Actually, I checked the ac voltage coming in and that's around 76 volts, I guess due to the light limiter.

Re: the earth.  Yes I ran that to the ground post on the outlet.

We live in an RV so I can't leave projects out.  I'll probably open it up again tomorrow and try some of the tests, will let you know.    Regarding the red and black vs orange and brown, that's how it was hooked up when I opened it yesterday.  I'm assuming the HF is the main speaker connections, and the LF refers to the connections on the unit labeled 'powerline' which is at the very back of the speaker.  This thing unscrews from the speaker itself.   I'll leave both of those sets of wires disconnected during the tests. 

I can see pretty clearly the transistors the other tech replaced. I'll see if I can identify them so we know what's been done.

Regarding the test points.  What am I testing between?  Is this with the amp powered up? I really haven't done anything like this since high school.

Also, I'm wondering if I can really tackle this.  That fine unsoldering and soldering is not something I'm particularly talented at.  I do have a little Peavey KB1 that I aquired that works pretty well as a stage monitor for us.  Perhaps I should just try to sell this cheaply to someone who wants to tackle it.  Thoughts on this are appreciated. 

If I do work on it, I think in my case it will be best to remove the stuff I'm working on from the case so that I can minimize my clutter as I'm testing.  Again, we don't have that much room, and I also have three cajon drums I'm building in the living room at this time.  Thanks again.   Unless I get other advice, I'll probably open this up again tomorrow morning, run some tests and post my results.

Okay, I plugged the amp into the limiter light unit and turned it on.  Then I turned on the load limit switch.

The 75w bulb illuminated but not too bright, maybe halfway light.  I got a hum in the speaker but not too loud.  I ran my electric guitar in and tried to play it and no sound came out at all as far as the guitar.  The hum remained.  I did this all pretty quickly and got it shut off again.  That's where it stands at this point.  I guess I'll take it apart and put a meter on the speaker outs instead of the speaker and see what that says first.

When I do the next batch of trouble shooting, should I just unplug the speaker without the meter so I have it for other trouble shooting?

I disconnected the speaker.  The orange wire was on positive and the brown on negative so I tested that way.  With positive lead of multimeter on orange I got a reading of -19.85 or so. After I switched off the unit it slowly dropped the voltage back to zero.  I also tested the red and black leads to the powerline unit attached to the back of the speaker (which seems to be loose from the speaker) and they showed .11  That's the extent of what I'll do until I hear back. 

Here's my load limiter light.  Hope it works okay.  I'm going to go back to the page for that, but basically I ran the common to that side of the switch, ran the hot to the switch, from the other side of the switch to the light and from the other side of the light to the hot on the outlet.  Just wondering if there's a test before I plug it in.  Thanks so far.  (you can see my tip jar in the background of the photo..... empty as usual.

Just about done building the light limiter.  Is there a test for it?  Does the light come on only when there's a load plugged into the outlet?

Sorry for the additional post.  I looked up the light bulb limiter.   I'll build that today.  Looks too easy.  Looks like a 100 watt bulb is recommended. I have a 75 on hand, but can grab a 100.

Oops, got my email notifications set up.

I've made a point of not turning it on since I got it back from the tech.  He was using a limiting lamp.  I'll see about making one. He said that the last time he had it powered up through the limiting lamp, there was a small hum.  He also told me that he has replaced all output transistors on the power amp.  He further said everything he replaced is attached to the power amp heat sink.  I have a solder iron, very limited high school electronics (in 1971) and a volt ohm meter.  The tech suggested that he needs an oscilloscope to test it further?  It's possible that I could wait until May when I'm back in Colorado, where my step-son may have access to the O scope.  I'll look up the limiter and see if I can build that so I can power it up and tell you all more. I'm a bit excited about attempting this myself, however, I'm a little skeptical of my abilities.  (the forum gives me confidence.)  Thanks for your input.  (is there a way to turn on notifications so my email tells me when someone posts?)

Not sure if anyone will see this as it's an old thread.  I also have a 1270P that is not working.  I don't do my own work, but took it to a guitar shop tech who's reputable. I don't have a list of what he replaced, but he did several replacements as he went through it.  The original problem was that as soon as you switched it on there was a loud hum, I mean really loud.  The 3 amp fuse was blown,  I replaced that, and that's when I was able to switch it on and get the hum.  So the guy says that it's now in the power supply and he doesn't have what he needs to test it.  I've considered sending it to Fender to see what they can do with it.  The thing is, I don't have much in it, but it's a perfect sized unit for what we do, I think if it works it will be a perfect addition to our stage setup. 
Is this worth pursuing? Might anyone from this thread have some insight I can give my tech guy?  I can post a list of replacements if it will help.  I appreciate any advice I can get on this.