I tried testing the voltages. I get around 35.8v ac on both d20 and d25. when I attempt to get dc voltages the meter starts out reading like 15v then really slowly drops i get as low as 9.47v or so and the meter wants to do its 5 min shut down. I get -.27v at any of the speaker connection wires.

What am i doing wrong? black is clipped to chassis and I have changed the scale the ac voltages are consistent. I'm not sure what im missing.

as for the parts. I only asked because it cost like 4-5$ for shipping each time and the parts cost less than ten $ last time. I can order every part in that section of the diagram with duplicates of like 5 or ten pieces for like 20$ and only pay shipping once. then Id have spare if I accidentally fried something and wouldn't have to wait 5 days for parts and pay shipping again just thought it would be cheaper and quicker.

Roly,
A few questions:
1. I am checking voltages on both sides of  d20 and d25 also at the speaker output. Do I need to have the 44100Hz tone injected?
2. Should the voltages be 45v or am I misunderstanding the diagram? If so Is this the voltage comming from the big 50v caps
3. Should I just order q7,12 and 13 ahead of time since they are so cheap. How about the 1N4002 (these are the rectifiers right) should I just order those and the 50v caps to save time, or am I getting ahead of myself?

I figured Id check the resistors at r106 and r98 since they are kinda a mirror to the bad ones on the q16/q17 side and r106 was bad so I replaced that.

Sorry for all the questions, but im learning a TON and enjoying the repair. I may have to build something after this. lol. Thank you guys for all your help and patience.

OK. I couldn't wait any longer for a response. Sorry im not the most patient person.

I soldered in the chips and fired up the amp with the limiter lamp. If I use only an external 8ohm speaker and turn off the internal with the switch there is now sound, but it is distorted. If I unplug the external cabinet and use the internal. the sound is distorted and the limiter lamp lights up when I play a chord. the more signal in, the brighter the light.

Where do I start looking next?

Ok the .33ohm resistor is bad testing it next to a new one. I replaced that. should I replace the  Transistors also? They are not in the board yet. Then what? I dont want to move forward without instruction.

ok I made my lamp limiter and pulled the transistors. both check out ok. they are only conducting in one direction and the voltage drop is .5v so that is ok. I have ordered all the parts. they should be here tomorrow. should I just replace them when they get here?

I get your point. I will order what I cant get locally and make up my limiting lamp. I'll let you know when I have all the parts and i'll post all the values on the transistors at the same time.

1   0.33 ohms 10W ceramic resistor
is this for r123 isnt it a 0.33ohm 5w 10% resistor?
1   100 ohm resistor, 1/4W
is this for r112? I replaced this already and have a bunch left over in case it burns up again, they come in packs of 5.
dont wann buy extra stuff for nothing.

as for the drawing the values you state are correct. so the schematic has typos. the small schematic with everything crammed on one page lists them correcty just really small.

general question:
OK the schematic shows both q17 and 18 are TIP34c but Q16 is in reality a TIP30c according to the assy drawing and looking at the actual pcb. does this matter?

JM:

yes there is still clean sound until you turn the volume way up it just isn't anywhere near the volume of the other side.

Roly:

pulled q16 the TIP30c How do I tell what pins are B,C, & E?  What kind of values am i looking for? will pull q17 next.

I will build the limiting lamp in the next few days.

No worries.

The resistor that was burned was R112.

Located near J4 on the drawing of the circuit board, top left of the drawing. J4 would be the right external speaker output jack (this is the bad one by the way).

It is the 100 ohm resistor (I believe) on page 3 of 3 in the schematics. Located on the left side of the page near the external speaker.

I wont to proceed without advice, but since we were testing voltages on u18 and u19 and those (headphone amps) were ok, should I be testing pin 5 voltages at u20 and u21? If I am understanding the diagram correctly u20 leads to the side where the resistor was burned and there should be .16v here. just an educated guess on my part, but if u18 and u19 are "amps" then I would guess that u20and u21 are also.

Please advise and correct me if any of my observations / assumptions are incorrect.

Ok how about .450v ac on the solder joints which is the same as tip and ring on the cable prior to plugging it in. guess where i was probing was not the input huh?

Shame it wasnt the cheap parts. whats next?

I got .8mv ac on j9 the source is from my laptop at max volume. would it help to know the location of the resistor I found burned on the main board?

I finally got the voltages off the pin correctly. not sure why, but i had to make contact before changing the scale or it would not read correctly.

the prior dc voltages are no different but the ac voltage is as follows,

u18 pin 5 .92V ac
u19 pin 5 .84v ac

a few questions:

If im starting to understand how to read the schematic this Is a little low since is says 1.1v on the schematic. Correct?
Is this is acceptable?
If not where is "the power amp itself" you said may be the next suspect and where do i start checking?

the above numbers are what I got with the tone injected. unless i change the scale again then i get .05v ac and .047v ac respectively. I also tested the guitar cable and it works as you stated when playing a chord. now what?

ok here are the results with a good meter.
U18 pin 5 = 7.56dc
u19pin 5 = 7.09dc
u18 pin 6 = 15.09dc
u19 pin 6 = 15.1dc
u18 pin 5 = .1m ac
u19 pin 5 = .1m ac
I went with the Ideal meter from Lowes for 58$ works great and sturdy, well worth the extra 20$