Thanks for replies,
looks like I won't be looking for fine wire to repair original tank.

Phil..
I've read all your posts regarding  reverb; don't think you could be off track with an answer, but thanks for being polite.

Your comment about not fully understanding the workings, was right on the money as I stated in my previous post...
"Not sure if I understand why the absence of the "fine" wire between the two posts terminating each spring at the Green (output) end  affects the output sound so dramatically, but  doesn't affect the resistance measurement of the input or output leads?,  I need to do some more reading to understand the magnetics in play?"

My confusion came from the fact that the "wire" that I was looking at was either something left over from production that got stuck on the end of the spring post(s).. or perhaps a fabric thread that had somehow  (in this poor little amps previously hard life, based on all the damage I've found thus far), got wound around the two  spring posts,  and under normal magnifying glass looked like a fine wire. I'll repost that pic below and if you save it and blow it up you can see that it is actually thread not wire. (that also explains why when I tried to "tin" it with soldering iron it burned to half it's length immediately).
I could see the other remnant of it on the other post, that is why I couldn't understand why there would be a fine wire between both the spring posts.  (that appeared broken)
Now that I have completely disassembled the tank, read your posts,  and looked at these diagrams (the two below) from Tubes and Mores website.. I do now  understand the electromagnets and the wiring...

I looked at the wires from the windings on the magnets to the connectors and they are actually OK,  I did find one of connectors wasn't fully engaged... connected but not "tight"...

I am posting pics of windings to connectors (where we thought the problem might have been), thought might be of value to someone else in the future... if they have these tiny "tanks".
Cleaned it up, checked all the push connections, stuck in in amp... and now REVERB ....,  So now I need to get some double faced foam tape to mount back in cardboard tank, and then more tape to anchor to cabinet.

SO both amps will have working tanks in them... I might play around and make a metal tank cover, and rivet tank to it (I have some light gauge aluminum sheet stock), and see if it makes any difference.

Regarding wanting the golden reverbs from 60's era Amps...
 
I guess I'm getting a little greedy for a $20 1999 SS amp... and with all the free help here, only $4.50 in parts,  It is a nice little practice amp. 

Now to find the two D shaft knobs and I'll be set...

I do have a SuperChamp XD that can produce a fairly nice reverb blackface sound ...the amp, not me...lol.

I have "looked" at this pedal, Boss FRV-1 '63 Fender Reverb, excellent review, but I haven't played through one.  But for the little I play (so far) hard to justify.

Thanks again
Dave

Yep... identical tanks , So I'm done with this one.

I would still like to play around with the "bad tank" and see if I can find a suitable "Fine wire" to repair as stated in the earlier post, so if anyone knows of  a product that may work I'd be interested in trying, like maybe a winding from a resistor or a magnetic bobbin or something?...

I know it's not worth the time or effort, but the education I have received from all here has made the repairs so far enjoyable.
I'll check back to this post occasionally to see if there are any ideas, and continue to view the forum on a regular basis, and I may have some excellent photos to share of what CAN go wrong on a solid state amp....
Dave

Gentlemen...
Perhaps I overstated the "weak"; I believe it's relative to a nice rich reverb that I remember from the classic Fender amps of my youth... the 60's.
I think I have reached what this amp is capable of (or at least how it was initially sold), I might look for a better tank, (read, better specs), if I can come up with one cheap.  With the understanding that it would only help "some".
I have read many of the posts on this site regarding reverb and if I could use a quote from Phatt...

"... but my answer was based on the high likelihood that the owner is chasing a ***MUCH MUCH MUCH better Reverb*** and unknowingly assumes that the *TANK itself* is where the mojo (Killer tank slapping) reverb comes from."

I had tested the tanks in both amps and got virtually identical resistance readings on both input and output leads.  Coincidentally both of these relatively inexpensive starter Fender starter amps were made in 1999.
I used the table I found here,  http://www.tubesandmore.com/  to estimate what that would mean for Impedance.  My tests for both tanks were 26 ohms input and 200 output static, equating to the 150, and 2250 respectively at 1khz.
Below is a pic of the "bad" tank removed from the cardboard tube, with the Fender part number and the codes show the BB in positions 2 & 3, which according to the tables in the above website I believe confirms those values.
Not sure if I understand why the absence of the "fine" wire between the two posts terminating each spring at the Green (output) end  affects the output sound so dramatically, but  doesn't affect the resistance measurement of the input or output leads?,  I need to do some more reading to understand the magnetics in play?
The amplifier I took the tank from would have a dollar value less than a new tank, but the enjoyment of the learning experience continues, so I think I'll continue to research the above, as well as if there is a method to find a wire with "solderability" that would have similar resistance characteristics of the missing "fine wire" attempting to repair the "bad" tank.  I don't see much support for that effort across the web, (even for more valuable, classic tanks) much less the cheap cardboard one, but... that's what makes it interesting.

Thanks again. 
Dave

Done !!! (I think).

Thanks for clarification on grease...

So , the reverb was a little more work than I thought,
1. Went to reflowing everything...
2. Noticed with the right light, that the pot for reverb was cracked down the back, see pic below,  (by the way, that was one of the two knobs that was missing when I received it, looks like it must have taken a good impact).
Still need to locate a couple cheap push on D shaft knobs.
Pulled pot from board, it tested open.  Ordered new pot... PITA, mini, snap in, Fender proprietiery..., Got new pot today, stuck in board , and expected instant successs,  Nope...
3. If you look at the pic of the cardboard "reverb tank" I posted back on 1/27, I now see the fine wire was broken always, at the time I didn't know it was a wire.
4. Pic below is a closeup of tank fine wire, after I pulled tank (read, cut the double sided tape it was mounted with.)
5. Tried to stretch wire with tweasers to reach the other post to solder ,too short,  unsucessfully I broke it from the post it was anchored too.  Just to see what it would solder like I "pretinned a post and tried to solder and it appeared that the heat from 30w iron  actually melted the wire more before the solder could attach to wire.

QUESTION... anyone have an idea it there is a wire type, substitute that I could play with to try to fix this one?  I know a reverb tank is only $20-30, but so far only spending the $5 on the reverb pot thanks to all of your help, has been very rewarding.

6. I did have a matching dimension and input/output tank from a small Fender 15R that this amp will replace,  that I pulled and installed, although not very "rich", it does the job.
So fixing the old reverb tank would be to stick in the little 15R.

Thank again to all that helped

I won't get back too it until later this weekend.

1. Thought you all may find another SS amp I have interesting... hopefully from what I've read I never have to ask for help on this one, as I understand they can be a bear.

http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573733998UhWDVL

2. I may be mixing terms up here,  I didn't demount the chip so the white thermal "paste" is still between chip and heatsink.  When I first took apart there was a block of aluminum between, L shaped aluminum that chip is mounted to (with the white thermal "paste"),  but between the block and the L shaped aluminum, and the block and the metal pan, there was the "Vaseline" style grease.  I have seen some other reverences to late 90's Fender solid state amps having it but not what it is or replacement options...,   Almost seems more like a dielectric grease to just prevent corrosion on aluminum to aluminum and aluminum to steel?.

3. I wasn't getting any of the traditional "bong" from anything I was trying, but it was only for a couple of minutes,...  and I haven't reflowed everything, so I don't want to get to carried away until I get that done. ...  (also I need to move everything from the kitchen island... )

Excellent forum,  you folks really go the extra mile in helping the newcomer,

joecool... RE-Looking at your post you did say ALL and that you had seen instances where a few WERE bad but... 40-50 COULD cause problems latter... AHHH...makes so much more sense now, I should have paid a little closer attention.
Plus I was really scared of damaging the chip ...

JM Fahey... Thanks for staying on the low DC voltage at the chip... that finally got me back to it, and the actual problem. (and the picture resizing program)

Tonyharker... early on for link to schematic

Phatt and Jhow... your specific directions for test points and values  kept getting us back to the root cause...   I did try the plastic "chop stick"  pressure on the board to find any changes,... but with the heatsink bolted to the chip obviously didn't get any movement. I also appreciate the resizing and mod program for pics you provided.

A little board protocol, since I've asked so many questions, I have enough posts (although they are all questions, not help)  I can "award" chips... should I do so for above the help received?, or is that something reserved for "regulars"?

I'm not going to spend a lot of time of the Input 2 volume, as I did research and discover it's a darker channel for active pickups and I'm testing with a cheap Fender Tele.

I am going to look at reverb, as I like a touch when playing,  It has spring reverb in a "cardboard"  pan (see pic below).  (I do think I had some reverb day 1, with the pot  very noisy, but it was hard to tell as lound as the hum was previously. Physically it seems that is the only control pot that turns with no physical resistance, which I understand is very subjective).

I did a quick resistance test  of reverb pan input and output wires, R/B was 202ohms, and G/G was 27, I tested another Fender SS with a physically similar size, and it tested virtually identical at 202/28.

I tried to test millivolts at TP13 and TP14 on a 4 vdac scale and got .095 at TP13 and .004 at TP14. converting that gives me 95 millivolts (s/b878m, off by a factor of 10?) and 4 millivolts (s/b >5m, close).  That was with amp on, no input, reverb at midpoint on control.

I also need to put thermal grease back on between chassis and heatsink and spacer?,  any recommendations or cautions?, It was a clear almost like vaseline with just a tiny amount between each.

I haven't pulled the board again (or reflowed anything...yet),  I want to play it a day or two to see if it holds up.

Dave

Opps sorry for the spelling: J. Fahey,

So... Some Sucess!!, as a result of inspecting pins closely for testing and replacement on TDA1514A... I found a cold solder joint on pin/leg 1. 

After all of the joints I reflowed and looked at I never saw these smaller pins as a problem even with the magnifying glass I was using.

So I have virtually all of all humm gone and 0 dvc at the speaker leads,  thanks everyone.

There are still some issues I need to figure out.
1. There is no reverb.
2.  Trying briefly input jack 1 and 2 and the gain/volume impact seems off or wrong ...  but the clean (on channel 1) I think seems OK with enough volume for a small amp..

I need to look at those and do some basic trouble shooting on those before I bother all of you on those items.

Should I continue on this thread, or start a new one (if needed for each of the other problems I discover?>?)
thanks again, great help...

Dave

Went to check on testing method for TDA1514A... pins 1,9,6,4,5 per J.M.Farey, per my post above,
I assumed that I would test each pin to chassis ground, but looking at the spec sheet below, now I'm not so sure.
  It does look like pin 4 is ground?, so assuming chip is isolated ,  it would be the same as going to chassis ground?
I'll hold on until I get advice and don't kill the chip (or something else).

From Phillips spec sheet

http://www.next.gr/components-datasheets/TDA1514A.pdf

Thanks
Which raises a couple of (more) questions.

To test : 
1. unit powered on
2. NO input? nothing plugged in
3. speaker leads disconnected
4. Each lead (numbered left to right looking at chip mounted to heat sink) from the top of the board is numbered 1-9.)
5. Each will be tested individually for pins 1,4,5,6,9 (tested from the solder points to chassis ground)6. I "tried" looking at what I would exect to see for results on schematic (since my meter isn't autoranging...
-noticed they don't specify dc volts...
Pin 1= ?
Pin 4= -27v
Pin 5= 0?
Pin 6= +27v
Pin 9= ?

If you gentlemen could fill in the ?? above before I test.


Regarding the replacement chip,  it is a US "fender" repair shop,  I need to call and discuss the glut of fake chips before if I order.
I'll have a few more questions regarding front vs. back identification, mica insulator, white thermal paste,and thermal grease, assuming I get that far...

It's not a repair... it's a quest...

Jhow... I posted before I read last post regarding your chip comment.

I'll let a couple of folks listen to youtube recording and see if you all agree with the testing that I/we have done, resoldering the loose jack,  still having the 3.5vdc on the speaker leads,  that I need to get the chip and replace it next..

Does only having 3.5 vdc on the speaker leads (vs. the much higher that was suggested there would be if the chip was "blown" ) mean it's "somewhat" failing?, also the fact that there is some input from the guitar that still passes through to the speaker through the chip (as shown in the youtube clip as well, although it was very weak and had to be turned all the way up).

Only other thing I noticed the guitar volume as well as the ambient noise level was higher when the gain circuit was engaged with both gain and volume  vs. the standard channel?

tks

Duh... might be easier if you all could hear what it sounds like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOjYjR-2WQ4&feature=youtu.be

hopefully it's ok to post links, otherwise go to youtube and search for

troubleshooting fender 30

I did find a US repair shop that has a single td1514a available, but the $20 to buy and ship will equal the cost of the amp... so I'd like to see if we can narrow it down to that before I pull the trigger.
thanks

So heat in the wife's car...
Thanks again to all who have responded so far>

1.   Tested Jack Inputs with these results:
Tested with meter for continuity.
Both Input 1 & 2: W/O cord inserted both of the top "tabs" were to ground.
Both Input 1 & 2: W/ cord inserted,  front (closest to threads)  "tab" was still to ground but back "tab" was open on each.

2.    With the chassis out checked the solder joints on the "legs" of each  jack to ground.
Interesting results, I'll look at schematic and see if I can figure out if this is right... (if I need to upload sketch to make clear let me know)
   JACK 1   (bottom view)      JACK 2   (bottom view)
Leg 1   leg 2            Leg 5   leg 6
Leg 3   leg 4            Leg 7   leg 8

•   With NO cord in any Jack
Legs (2,3,4)&(5,6,7) are to ground
•   With Cord in Jack 1
Legs (2,3) & (6) are to ground
•   With Cord in Jack 2
Legs (2,3,4) & (6,7) are to ground
3.   Here are the DC test points
      S/B      ACTUAL
TP 3       +25.9      +26.4 vdc
TP 4      -25.9      +26.4 vdc
TP 5      +15.1      +15.0 vdc
TP 6      -14.8      -15.3 vdc

I rechecked the earlier test on :
      + lead   - lead
C39      +14.2      0
C40      0      -14.2

4.   I tried a couple of A/C test points:
      S/B      ACTUAL
TP1      20.3      20.2VAC
TP2      20.3      20.2VAC

Still have the 3.5 vdc on speaker leads (speaker unconnected).

I did borrow a "better" meter a UEI dm383b ... Didn't seem to make me "better"... it does have capability of mvolts... but I think it needs an input load?, and load on speaker leads to test>

Regarding the TDA1514A, I did notice the EBAY sellers before, but ALL are Hong Kong, and most are still "branding" as a Phillips part, I did see on some other places there is some complaints regarding Fakes blowing up.    I also saw there was a bunch of late 80's Phillips and Marantz CD players (of all things that used this,that foks are canabilizing).


Next steps?...

I'll recheck c38, and I do (now) see the test points and values, I'll take a look and see what I find.

My wife seems to think putting a new blower motor in her car before snow flurries tonight should take priority over this IMPORTANT project...

I also see that the TDA1514A may be tough to find?,  (and a little expensive?) if I end up needing that.

Thanks...
Does that make the reading on C38 in the earlier post suspect then?,  as I got a (-15.8vdc) on the POSITIVE leg?  When looking at the schematic it looks like it should test like the  C40,  you are referencing, meaning it should be testing  (-15vdc) on the NEGATIVE leg ? , or is it dependent on how it's used in the circuit? ( I'll double check readings today).
Can you provide a brief description of the DVM testing for the jack you suggest?,  here is a pic of the jack I believe is in question.

Thanks
Dave

Ah...
Younger more knowledgeable eyes, Yes I do see now looking at pic, it is on same trace, so I'll just solder back up.
The pic below show what the legs come from , white block "things", they are labeled  C48 and C48 so that means they are capacitors even though they don't have the traditional canister shape?

Still don't understand what the reading on (-and +) legs of C40 in post above means?

and why I have 3.5+ v at speaker leads... unless the TDA151 is "partially bad"?,

Also if there is any way to check number 1 input jack since that was the only visible issue when I started or remove or jumper it somehow  to eliminate that possibility. I'll try to look at schematic , (or if I can pick up a jack local might be easier to replace then troubleshoot)


thanks ALL...