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Messages - zedonetx

#1
Thanks to j.m.fahey and phatt.

-Arrangements were made according to the warnings.
-Piezo and battery is far from each others :)
-pcb layouts were designed by me after auto routing (it must be double-checked).
-I tried to make the minimum space for the board.
-A board with 50mmx65mm sizes would fit. The rest is your ability :)

Of course, first i would like to test the circuit on a breadboard. It is important. Firstly test it :)



Quote from: phatt on October 25, 2016, 07:54:29 AM
OK you score 10 for your enthusiasm :dbtu: but don't get ahead of yourself this is not as simple as it looks. :-X
Auto route is fine if you are making mother boards but this is not the same on several levels. 8|
For audio circuits like this auto route is the fastest way to make more land fill. :'( :'(

This is a very high impedance input and highly prone to picking crud noise.
Keep the input away from output.
Don't make very fine tracks and pads (I'm assuming you are going to hand etch & drill this PCB)
You are bound to end up needing to change a component and tiny tracks & pads are only good for one or two shots. There should be a global menu to set pad and track dimensions,, so use it. :tu:

I've edited your schematic to give you some idea of how to wire it up.

Hand route the PCB and try to keep the layout much like the schematic i.e. power on one side and ground plane on the other and that should work ok for a small board like this.

Note:  I changed D1 to be in series with the battery,, works either way,,, fors and against both ways.
If IRC, Diode in series puts less stress on the diode if battery is inserted wrong.
Oh the extra cap is just extra filtering and I have read it may even help the battery.

Now;
I forgot to mention,, you might want to consider an output buffer (to drive long cables better)
just a simple BJT is all that is needed. See my PhAbb Fet Boost output on previous page for how to insert that. The circuit will work without it but a buffer covers any situation.
If there is anything I've missed I'm sure others here will see any mistakes I've missed and chime in to help.
Cheers, Phil.
#2
As I am very interested in that topic, I decided to make a PCB schematic with PCBwizard v3.5. I added *.pcb file now to let you see the diagram. After making sure of the drawing, i will make auto-routing and it will be ready for PCB print-out. :) As you see, i only did the piezo part of the circuit, as @Phatt said, i didnt take the magnetic part of the circuit as long as it is for my nylon string guitar :) thanks to @Phatt

Battery should be supplied with 9V, right?

Any suggestions for the schematic that I have drawn is appreciated!

Quote from: phatt on October 24, 2016, 09:05:02 AM
As you are likely not yet fully conversant with this type of setup I don't recommend a microphone addon.
Yes it has been done but requires a special mic and some specialized knowledge.
Even the best on board mic setups can have feedback issues and still will not sound as good as a normal outboard mic.

A piezo PU is ideally suited to Nylon guitar and in my experience actually often better sound reproduction than most microphones. (outside of a pro studio setup) 8|
Phil.
#3
Thank you very much for your answer. it really helped me. one more question: Ok, i will take the upper part of the circuit for my classical guitar. but can i also add a microphone to this circuit? microphone gives more natural sound. i mean the circuit can be with Mic and Piezo at the same time? i want to used both. :)

thanks in advance,

Quote from: phatt on October 24, 2016, 07:16:28 AM
Hi zedonetx,

*Bridge* refers to the Piezo element usually located in the bridge of the guitar.
*Ring and Tip* is the term used to describe the 6.5mm plug/socket of the common guitar cord.
A Mono plug is called a TS (Tip Sleeve) and a Stereo plug has the extra contact ring, TRS (Tip Ring Sleeve)
It is common practice in guitar preamps to use a TRS Socket in combination with a Mono 6.5 Plug to switch on the preamp.
The Ring contact in the socket is bridged by the mono plug and connects the negative of the internal battery to the ground/common of the preamp turning on the power.

The same idea is also used in most battery powered pedals,, inserting your guitar cord completes the circuit and power stays on until you remove the plug.

As you have an *Nylon* string guitar you can't make use of the Magnetic section as they only work on steel string guitars.
That means you only need the top part of that circuit so you can delete everything after C4 (the cap after the Volume pot).
hope that helps.
Phil.
#4
Can i ask some terms in the schematic?

BRIDGE?
RING?
TIP?
Can i learn what they refer to? I am trying to match "piezo", "under-saddle pickup", "jack" and "microphone" terms with them. thank you

Quote from: blues dog on September 21, 2011, 11:43:28 AM
My effort of tracing the LR Baggs Piezo-Pickup preamp from a Godin guitar (the guitars belongs to my customer). I triple check the trace.. Hope don't miss something there..  :D






#5
thanks for reply , and sorry for topic resurrection  xP A time comes and i am so much eager to make my own preamp project for my acoustic nylon string guitar. Then after a time, i forget it. then i remember again and search. and i find my postings here again. :) kind of weird, isnt it?

thank you for your info. i would rather like to make my own preamp since im an electronics engineer and a amateur musician.

Quote from: Enzo on October 28, 2015, 01:51:12 PM
And Baggs and others already make a selection of such pickups and preamps.  Unless you are just into making a project, you might consider a commercial product, one that has a pickup designed to work with it.  My friends at Elderly can help you, and other places like Sweetwater as well.

http://www.elderly.com/accessories/cats/PUA.html

http://www.sweetwater.com/c985--Acoustic_Guitar_Pickups
#6
do you know the model of this Godin guitar? I need something for my classical-flamenco guitar. and i want to make a good natural tone Preamp. :)