Quote from: s3gle on May 05, 2018, 05:02:52 AMI believe all speakers are running at 8 ohms. my guess is that the splice will create 16 ohms per output, which should be ok?

It depends on how you will wire the splice, parallel or series. Typically wiring two 8 ohm loads in series becomes 16 ohms and wiring two 8 ohm loads in parallel will become 4 ohms. On the stage amp how are the speakers wired, parallel or series? Also, what is the impedance of each speaker separately on both amps? Do you have ohms meter to check DC resistance of the connections that you intend on creating? I wouldn't power anything up until you really suss this one out. 

The two black .022uf caps on the right side are coupling caps non-polarized and the stripe indicates foil side. The single black .03uf is coupling cap non-polarized stripe indicating foil side. The last two caps are polarized electrolytic caps, not sure value, but they might be cathode bypass capacitors. On those electrolytic caps what does each end connect to?

Wow a great schematic indeed. Do you have a voltmeter handy? You need to check all your power supply voltages and make sure that all checks out good. After that you need to consider how you can go about signal tracing the amplifier. Scopes are the preferred manner by which amp techs use to trace a signal through a circuit. If you do not have a scope then you need to google the term "Signal Tracer" and build a DIY version. These two steps will get you going in the right direction.

P.S. You only need one thread here about the amp you are fixing. If anything posting many threads about the same amp is just confusing "US", the people trying to help.

Post the schematic or we will have little to no way of helping. Also, it will get a bit confusing having more than one thread asking questions about the same thing.

Quote from: phatt on April 10, 2018, 09:39:10 AMOh and turn off your cap lock.
Phil.

I was thinking the volume was weak so he was making sure we could hear him.  :lmao:

I got this one here...

Sorry I had to post something to just laugh at this thread... Good thing Juan didn't chime in yet...  :dbtu:

I remember this thread... If you look back through it there are schematics given by Galaxlex.

https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3850.0;attach=7551

https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3850.0;attach=7553

https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3850.0;attach=6703

And obviously you read that the depth and speed (rate) have no effect on the chorus, which is in a fixed state. The vibrato uses the depth and rate as it is adjustable.

Here try this instead... I know OP got a copy but here is one that everyone can follow along with.

Welcome to the site!! What is your experience level troubleshooting faults in amplifiers? Simply we don't want to diagnose the amp with ideas in our head while trying to replace parts on a whim to prove such ideas. Instead we want to actually locate the fault and fix it by using troubleshooting techniques that will prove to be useful if you decide to play along. First tell us about your abilities with working on amps and what tools you have to get the job done.

Edit: Removed dead link...

Quote from: edjohansson on November 19, 2017, 07:51:28 PMAs I am a noob, I want to be sure I'm testing right.....do I put the black end of the multitester to the chassis ground and the red on the metal part?

To add to the great advice just given by Phatt and to answer your question...

Yes you would attach black lead of the meter to the chassis ground and then probe the red secondary connection points. There is the Red w/ Yellow stripe on the secondary and that is what we call the center tap. With amp off do a test to check for continuity from the chassis ground to the center tap connection. Also check resistance from the center tap to each end of the red secondary terminals.

Not saying all this as directive for response in trying to figure anything specific out. Actually just putting it out there so you can spend extra time learning it a bit, as those are thing I did that helped me understand it better too.

Not quite sure how you went about running signal from the Yamaha into the Fender? Just hope you did not plug speaker output from Yamaha amp into any of the inputs of the Fender. Probably you just sent line out signal into the power amp in on the Fender but just have to put it out there.

Blowing fuses is not good. Of course double check the right value of the fuse as solderdripper suggests. However, I think you need to be cautious going forward and even research how to make a light bulb limiter. This will prevent the amp from blowing fuses again and give you the ability to trouble shoot the amp.
https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?topic=2093.0

At this point the hum you heard could have been DC voltage present on the speaker output. Do not connect a speaker to the amp until you know that there is 0v DC on the speaker terminal connections. If you put in a new fuse and it does not blow then measure DC voltage with your meter on the speaker terminals, again no speaker connected. If the fuse blows right away again then build the Light Bulb Limiter to proceed with the repair.

Do all as Enzo said...

Also if you still have those mosfets you removed test them with a meter to make sure they were faulty, then at least it confirms that part. When changing out the output transistors due to output transistors failure it is a good idea to replace the driver transistors for the outputs. First time powering up an amp, with such a repair, it is good practice to use a light bulb limiter or current monitoring variac to make sure we don't fry the outputs or something else.

Quote from: J M Fahey on September 15, 2017, 08:59:02 PMAlthough I´d personally send that back to Fender and ask for a refund, since they can´t make it work. Period.

Yeah no doubt!! Crazy that they make these amps like this now a days!!