Thanks for the info J M. I did find that info on the relabeled 2030's when I found my 2050 went into meltdown and that is why I went to Line6 Direct to get a replacement. You can find 2050's for as low as a $1 each on eBay right now and there are a lot of sellers. I bought the amp used and for all I know it could have had a chip replaced already. I'm hoping that by getting it directly from line 6 I won't have an issue. Time will tell.

 :dbtu: I installed the Amp IC today. Used a DMM to make sure no continuity between IC and chassis, plugged amp into test lamp and a temporary 6" speaker I knew was good and ..........NO FIRE!!!!. HUGE thanks to Roly and Doc for the help. As soon as I get the replacement speaker in from back order I will be 100% good to go.


Thanks Again!!!!
Joe

Excellent..........  I will post back in acouple weeks. I just called the supplier for the the chip and speaker to find out why I haven't gotten a shipped notice and I am being told they are special order parts and they are waiting on them from Line 6 and it will most likely be 2-3 wks from the original order date. 

I am using a DMM and I am using the black to ground. These are my readings.

H1+ is 20.3+
H2- is 20.3-

C35 is 20.3+
C36 is 20.3+

C31 is 9.4-
C32 is 9.4+

Speaker is dead. no reading and no sound.

Are these numbers good or bad and what's my next move?

Quote from: Roly on December 04, 2014, 08:54:58 AM

Quote from: pudge211the H1- and H1+ voltages are 20.3 respectively

Plus 20.5V at both H1- and H1+?  Not minus20.5 and plus20.5V? (the polarity/sign is critical).

HI+ is 20.3+
HI- is 20.3-

Okay, try and locate C35 and C36, large cans 2200uF/25V, near the transformer and rectifier diodes.  You should get +20-odd volts from the +ve end of C36 to ground, and a similar negative voltage on the -ve end of C35.  This is the spilt supply for the output/power amp.

C35 is 20.3+ (you say this should be - but nowhere I test gives me -20.3 except for the point where the amp
                       IC gets connected to the board)
C36 is 20.3+

Somewhere nearby you should find C32 and C31, smaller 10uF caps.  C32 should have around +9V on its +ve end, and and C31 should have -9V on its negative end.  This is the split supply for the preamp.

C32 is 9.4+
C31 is 9.4-


Also please carry out the speaker tests and post results; we need to be sure the speaker isn't damaged, either as the cause or result of the amp fault.

Speaker Test complete and its junk. No scratchy noise, shows OL on meter and has no sound when hooked up to stereo. Ordered a new speaker today too.



We'll get you onto a 100 watt valve amp with 700V HT next, and you'll feel right at home. 

That's sounds interesting

I'm not too good with reading schematics and I only see H1- and H1+ marked on the board. If VA and Ve are referring to where the chip I removed is connected those voltages are 20.3, 20.3, 5.2, 4.5 and 0.1 the H1- and H1+ voltages are 20.3 respectively. All voltages phase to ground

This is what I've come up with and let me know if I don't have some thing right

H1+ as marked on board = 20.2

H2- as marked on board = 20.3

VA is the voltage @ audio out connection?? If so VA+ = 3.7

                                                        VA- = .1

And VL is line voltage from transformer?? Which is 3.0

Thank You Again for all the help!!! I work with high voltage at my day job and am fumbling thru this Low voltage stuff I guess so any help is appreciated. Sorry if I have something wrong but if so just let me know where to test and I will get it done.

ok cuurent status.... I removed the burnt Amp IC and plugged it in via the test lamp. It looks like the voltage at the test point is 3.3v DC as it is suppose to be. 

Is there anything you would check Right now before installing the new chip? The amp was smelling hot the last two times I powered it up.

Thank You for the reply Dr. I placed the order for the 2050 and will do the DC power check on the speakers.. I will post what I find once the part arrives and I have it installed

Hello...First Post...
   

I have a Line 6 SpiderII that quit working and started to smoke. upon opening the back of the amp up I plugged it back in and when I flip the power switch, the amp IC turns red hot and starts to burn. I have searched the net to find info about it but don't find much. I can make out TDA20 and the rest is burned off. I found a replacement TDA2050 at www.fullcompass.com but I Think the power is too high for a 15 watt amp. can anyone shed some light on if it is a TDA2050 or TDA2030 in there?

Thanks