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Crate g60-gt no output from distortion and wimpy reverb

Started by Duojet, August 15, 2012, 03:20:40 PM

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Duojet

Well, first I scrubbed the board, and then I replaced both resistors and the cap. Nothing changed, so I tested IC1. If pin 1 is the one closest to the dot (upper left) and pin 8 is on the opposite side facing the pots (upper right), I got:
1. cold
2. cold
3. cold
4. (bottom left) -15
5. (bottom right) cold
6. -15
7. -15
8. +15

Checked the one zener diode I could find on that side, and it has voltage on both sides.

????

J M Fahey

OK, IC1B is dead. Carefully replace it.
Use a good solder pump or solder wick.
Pamper the board.

Please identify the "Zener diode you found" and quantify the "voltage on both sides".
Vague statements don't help. :(
And ... good luck.   :tu:

Duojet

Success! Thanks to you guys, I got everything working again!

I did end up going with the 4558, as it was easy to get and I didn't want to worry about pin assignments. I used desoldering wick to take off 80-90% of the old material. I popped it in, carefully resoldered and turned it on. JOY! Two blinkenlights!

Soundwise the dirt channel is meh. But hey, now it works! I like my peavey's "transtube" gain better so I don't think this one will become the daily driver. Having said that, I learned some new things, and I'm very happy.

Roly

Ex-cell-ent.  I'm glad you stuck with it and didn't throw the towel in 'coz you had to be close with the rest of the amp working.  Next time you encounter something like this remember how distant this one seemed, but was really not far away at all.  Well done.    :dbtu:

Something that might give the dirt channel more mojo is to unbalance the LED clipper, say by changing one LED for a different colour that has a different forward voltage, or perhaps by wangling an ordinary diode in series with one of the LED's, so the clipping is asymmetrical - this sometimes sounds better.
If you say theory and practice don't agree you haven't applied enough theory.