One more thought about this... I am not certain but does this transformer have a thermal fuse on the primary section built into the tranny? Since the primary is reading open it makes me wonder if there is a thermal fuse that blew open. I have read many times where people went into the transformer and either replaced/removed the thermal fuse to get it working again. I have never had experience dealing with such problems but I know others here have. Sometimes it's even a bad connection point right at one of the wires leading into the tranny. Just a thought...

This question will be asked 100% of the time and should be... Is the transform bad or missing? If bad>> How have you tested to know its a bad transformer?

Here is the Stereo Chorus 212 1989 version...

Welcome to the site  :dbtu:

Well here is the schematic... Please look at the components where there is a capacitor between signal ground and chassis. Please let us know which caps on the schematic so we might have a better way of visualizing what you are thinking about that one. Also, I am confused by " amp randomly buzzes when a cable is connected to TS/boost jack" since all I can see is there is a boost switch but not a boost jack.

Anyway we know there is a random buzz occurring and that you twist some cable to make the buzz disappear. Which cable is this one? The Input cable from guitar or cable for footswitch?

Schematic>>>
https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4011.0;attach=6242

I am actually not familiar with this model and have not worked on one before. Basically we just need to break the amp up into sections, Preamp & Power amp. If the preamp is putting out a good healthy signal then the problem is pointing to the power amp and vice versa. Conquer and divide is the term for such an exercise and we want to know where in the circuit to focus our attention.

Edit: Typical issues are sometimes good to look at but can easily get us looking the wrong direction for the fault in the amp. Best to troubleshoot in a logical way first. Once we determine if the amp has a preamp problem or power amp problem then the next steps to to troubleshooting will follow. For example, we might have a power supply issue where signal is not passed through either the preamp or power amp. So honestly testing for power supply voltages might actually be the very first step in the process. Since testing preamp and power amp is simple we sometimes just jump right in to check that first.

I think that EL34World website download is the Japan version. Either way just email Stratopastor and he'll help you out, he's a nice guy.

First thing to check is the preamp output and poweramp in mono jacks. The main instruments signal path passes right through those jacks. Often those jacks get dirty and the signal starts to fade as heads through to the output section of the amp. Easiest way to test the jacks is to just simply connect the two jacks together using an instrument cable. Does plugging this patch cord from preamp out to poweramp in make any difference the volume?

Later you can connect the preamp out (Acoustic 220) to the poweramp of another working amp to test the preamp section. Then take the preamp out of another amp (Guitar signal, iphone preamp works too) and input it into the power amp input of the Acoustic 220 amp. That way you can find out if there is a problem with the preamp or poweramp.

https://elektrotanya.com/acoustic_220_guitar_amplifier_sm.pdf/download.html

Look inside the amp chassis and confirm if there is a 2030 type opamp power IC. Not sure how closely related your amp is to the schematic posted but we'll find out as we go. Start by confirming the 2030 and then we're off to the races.

Recently, I did a purchase order from Peavey and was a bit surprised at the cost of the MJ15024 & MJ15025 transistors, $10 each. I ended up buying them from Mouser for about $5-6 each.

When I have one failed output transistor failed in a set I typically will replace the entire set. Not only that I will replace the drivers and pre-drivers that associate with those output transistors. You want to get it just working again but you want it to keep working for many years to come. There was one case where I had replace 3 output transistors on one side of a PA system and left the working originals in place. That amp still works to this day and that was over 5 years ago. In that case I was feeling mighty frugal and got really lucky. I still recommend against trying to get lucky. 

Quote from: Roly on October 14, 2012, 06:58:54 AMAmps with actual electronic problems generally don't "magically come back to normal".

I sure do miss Roly. Very good quote to get stuck in your head. I have many statements like this one in my memory bank from so many great techs I have met here and other places online.

So if you get no luck calling Acoustic there appears to be an option to buy the service manual/schematics on this site here for $20.
https://www.musicparts.com/products.asp?Company=Acoustic

Check out this link and all the information to see if any of it relates to your amp.
https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?topic=4398.0

For some reason the link to the pictures is broken and not working.

Typically a solid state amp does not have an output transformer but this amp has one. Are you using a load on the output? The norm with solid state amps is to not have a load connected while servicing the amp and once it is stable you connect one. So should smackoj have a dummy load or speaker connected to the amp?