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Messages - joecool85

Late to the party, but still here - we've found four new amps that were released during NAMM 2022.

Blackstar - Jared James Nichols mini amp (customized Fly 3):

Fender - Frontman 20G (Basically like the old Frontman 25R but without reverb and using an 8" speaker instead of 10"):

Line 6 - Catalyst series (New and upgraded versions):

Yamaha - THR30II (10th anniversary models in special colors):
Quote from: Loudthud on June 15, 2022, 05:05:14 AMInteresting that it uses an external power supply. The jack on the back looks like the same one used on pedals.

This is becoming quite common on small amps and heads.  The Yamaha THR series does this, as does Orange Micro Terrors, Hughes & Kettner "Spirit" amps, Vox MV50 series and more.
Quote from: willpirkle on June 13, 2022, 10:08:21 PMYep - I didn't get the name of the company who did all of them, but was told something similar about the power amps, and that each model was designed in partnership with each respective company, so there are differences in the preamps that could be interesting to study. Have not seen any schematics for any of them tho.

It is the parent company, Boutique Amps Distribution.

They own a ton of companies now:
Tone King
Quote from: BenGunn on June 03, 2022, 06:19:15 AMHow many posts do I need to create to get access to the PM?

Just 1 post.
Long known for their high gain tube amplifiers, Soldano has decided to dip their toe into the solid state arena with their new amp, the SLO-Mini 30.  The SLO-Mini 30 is a small 30w head, with two channels and an absurd amount of gain.  Priced at $249 USD it is also (by far) the least expensive Soldano unit.  Well worth watching the video!
Quote from: krunssg2w on May 31, 2022, 12:50:25 PMA follow up for question three above. If I decide to remote mount the AUX in and headphone jacks, what are the specs for the non-PCB versions of those jacks? On Digi-Key (for example) I see many jacks with 2, 3, 4, and 5 contacts for mono, stereo, TRS, TRRS, TRRRS. It's confusing  :P

It would be nice to use this so headphones have both 1/8" and 1/4" support --, but I'm not sure how to wire it up.

As far as the AUX in is concerned should that be stereo 3-pin connector?

Links to recommended chassis-mount jacks on Mouser, Digikey, or Jameco, etc would be great!

Thank you!

For the aux input jack you will want a non-switched TRS (standard 3 pin stereo jack).

For the headphone jack you will want a TRS with switched pins on tip and ring.  This makes it a 5 pin jack.  When you don't have anything plugged in, the switches are closed and pass signal onto the speaker.  When you plug headphones in, it opens those switches and the signal goes to the headphones.

As for links, this is what I use for the kit for aux input:

And for chassis mount, this would work well:

For the headphone jacks I use these:

And something like this would work well for panel mount in 1/4" (use an adapter to step down to 1/8"):

These are listed as 5 position sometimes, but really they are 3 position jacks with 2 poles for the switches.

Hope this helps!
Quote from: krunssg2w on May 31, 2022, 12:29:31 PMHey! I'm a little late to the game, but started building out my Honey Amp PCB this past weekend. My intent is to use an 8 ohm speaker from an old Fender Champion 30 amp and likely power it with a 12V wall wart. I am building the "clean buffer" version, as I will be using this amp mostly to bench-test guitar pedals (a new hobby!)

My questions for the clean buffer build are:

1. C0 is shown on the schematic as 22pF. Does the type of capacitor matter? I assume any ceramic disc, MLCC, or box film cap would work, but wanted to check. I have a 22pF MLCC on hand and plan to use that.

2. The third line of the clean buffer instructions says "Attach C3 input to C2 + pad. [Audio jack] Input + will now need to be connected to pin 2 of RV1."

Can I get some clarification on these instructions? For the second part, it looks like the easiest solution is to solder a jumper between pads 3 and 2 of RV1?

I'm not sure about the first part -- C3 is soldered in place, correct? And I guess a jumper on the underside of the PCB between the pad of C3 closest to C0, and the C2 + pad? It's not to the pad of C3 closest to C7, correct?

3. Unrelated to the clean buffer alterations, what is the best way to mount the PCB in an enclosure? I will likely use PCB-mounted jacks for J2 and J3, but use wiring to remotely mount the Vol and Tone knobs. What's the best way to secure the PCB to allow access to the aux and headphone jacks?

Many thanks!

Awesome that you're building the clean buffer version.  This version uses the clean buffer of the Crybaby wah wah pedal from Dunlop and sounds really great.

1.  Yes, any 22pF capacitor is fine to use.

2. For C3, you will use the pad closest to C7 and the pad of C2 with the + on it.  Basically you are turning C3 90 degrees counter clockwise from where it is silk screened on the board.  If you have already soldered C3 in the stock location, you will need to remove, rotate by 90 degrees, and resolder.

For the second part, take the positive (tip of guitar plug) on the input jack and wire it directly to pin 2 on the board.  This will send it straight through to the circuit, pin 3 will be completely disconnected and of no use because you aren't installing a gain control.  No jumper required.

3. I have always mounted the board by the onboard potentiometers I spec with the kit.  Past that, you could use PCB edge mounts like these:
Quote from: BenGunn on June 01, 2022, 08:42:58 AM
Quote from: phatt on June 01, 2022, 03:03:40 AMHi Ben welcome 8)
Regards to IMG_4223.1.JPG
My guess is that green wire you mentioned goes to the Chassis.

The idea is to re-route how the ground paths return to the main Common/Ground point,, which is the Chassis. I'm not sure about the 2 dots?

It would be best if you PM "bajaman" as he will be able to explain it to you.

Yes it must be hard when you have to translate.
hope it helps, Phil.

Thanks for the answer, phatt! But, unfortunately, I don't have the rights to send private messages. Maybe bajaman will appear on the forum and answer my questions...

You should be able to PM now, you just have to have a few posts to your name first.
Amplifier Discussion / Re: My K-20X
May 31, 2022, 11:40:00 AM
Quote from: Trino on May 28, 2022, 05:38:30 PMHello joecool85 Hello, I need a thing
, can you give me a photo of the pcb of your k20x please?

Anything in particular you are looking for?  Earlier on in the thread I have pictures posted of the topside of the board.  There are also attachments showing the schematic as well.
Quote from: phatt on May 07, 2022, 06:37:30 PMYes open back delivers a more spatial sound hence fuller effect especially in small spaces but can present weird sonic issues in larger venues.
You may notice that a lot of big pro gigs tend to use closed back cabinets.

A player friend noticed this weird effect at an old wooden school gig where his open back rig was giving him a crossover of out of phase in the position he was limited to in the building. It can mess with your brain and the sonic result can be off putting.

That does not happen as much with a closed back cabinet.
Although it can still effect a closed back cab it is not as bad.
Venues with big Glass windows can have really bad reflections.

I never really thought about it as I don't typically play out, but just at home.  That makes a lot of sense though.
Quote from: phatt on May 04, 2022, 08:26:15 PMFor me personally I tend to like Sealed Cabinets for single speaker combos.


I was just talking about this with a co-worker.  I believe combos should be open-back, the way God intended.  Just kidding, though I am an open-back believer.
Amplifier Discussion / Re: Fender 112 Deluxe Plus
May 03, 2022, 04:05:08 PM
Quote from: FenderDeluxe112Plus on May 03, 2022, 03:57:37 PMThanks, will do. I do have an Mc1436 in my parts box from a supplier that I have bought good components from in the past. Can I test it in any way to check if it would be suitable?

Throw in a socket on the board and then try it.  If it works, you can leave it in the socket, if not, take it out :-)
Amplifier Discussion / Re: Fender 112 Deluxe Plus
April 29, 2022, 10:09:02 AM
Quote from: phatt on April 29, 2022, 02:23:11 AMJust turn the amp on and with a length of wire with alligator clips on the ends and just probe the Known ground points of the pcb and related ground points back to chassis.
**Just make darn sure you don't short power nodes back to ground.**
Use the schematic to verify test points and ground nodes.

If hum increases then you have created a ground loop.
If it reduces hum then you know there is a ground missing somewhere.

BTW the speaker Neg terminal is NOT Ground. This is a current feedback system and spk NEG is lifted from circuit common via that big 10 Watt resistor, R76.

You can visually work out the ground path but often not obvious.
Hence the wire probe can help define the problem.
Maybe post some circuit pictures and we might be able to help more?

I'm with Phil on this one.  I actually have an old test lead from a dead multimeter than I connected an alligator clip to for this purpose - works great.
Amplifier Discussion / Re: Fender 112 Deluxe Plus
April 28, 2022, 12:45:13 PM
Quote from: FenderDeluxe112Plus on April 28, 2022, 11:45:12 AMI am reading around 24ohms resistance from cp4 to chassis ground.

What about from CP2 to chassis ground?
Amplifier Discussion / Re: Fender 112 Deluxe Plus
April 26, 2022, 05:23:09 PM
Quote from: phatt on April 24, 2022, 09:39:20 PMA scope may not help much if it's ground hum.
I'm assuming the amp is working and passing signal except for the hum?

Well as there is no ripple on the supply and voltages are within spec then the most likely issue is one of 2 possibilities.
1/ open ground connection somewhere.
If the star ground node of main supply is not connected back to chassis correctly then it can cause hum issues. (Which is the node between C47 & C48 or Conn CP4)
You can test simply by shorting the main Common back to chassis with a wire. If the hum stops then you found the issue,, if hum increases then you just created a ground loop,, which brings us to,, 2/ Something is grounded that should Not be grounded, which would cause a ground loop hum.
Ground plane issues can be a nightmare to track down.
sometimes in design phase one has to use an alligator clip to find the best ground path before committing to a layout.

Often components like input jacks, FX loops and speaker outputs,  even the PCB need to be *Isolated from chassis*
This will depend on how the circuit common was designed which is hardly ever noted on schematics.

Tiss easy to loose these little isolation washers or forget to reinstall them.

If you acquired this amp with issues then someone may have already worked on it and if small parts have been lost then you have no idea why it hums.

*I would be researching ground path issues long before replacing parts in hope.*

I got caught once, I did not notice an isolation washer dropped off a PCB post and the hum drove me nuts for a few days.
finally found it hiding in the chassis corner. >:(

Been there.  I did this on my Dean Markley amp years ago.  Took forever to figure it out!