Solid State Guitar Amp Forum | DIY Guitar Amplifiers

Solid State Amplifiers => The Newcomer's Forum => Topic started by: flester on August 29, 2018, 11:58:16 AM

Title: Stripboard woes
Post by: flester on August 29, 2018, 11:58:16 AM
Probably because of my soldering technique, I keep breaking the conductive strips on stripboard. Do I just need to user better quality stripboard, improve my technique  or move on to something new? I find I can assemble something, it works but by the time I add pots, switches etc. and put it in an enclosure I find I've broken the conductors.
Title: Re: Stripboard woes
Post by: galaxiex on August 29, 2018, 07:35:17 PM
Must be poor quality.

I have soldered/de-soldered on old Japanese circuit boards in cheap 70's "throw away" type amps
and have seldom had an issue with traces lifting or breaking.
They made 'em good.

That said, some old circuit boards will lift and break traces if you look at them wrong.

Modern strip board that lifts/breaks traces that easy, must be poor quality.

I'm not ham-fisted when it comes to soldering, but I'm not all that gentle with soldering either.

What boards are you buying and from where?
Title: Re: Stripboard woes
Post by: Loudthud on August 29, 2018, 11:21:37 PM
What kind of solder are you using? No-Lead solder usually has a high melting point. The lowest melting point is 63% tin, 37% lead if you can get it. Soldering irons can vary in temperature. I use a Variac to vary the temperature on mine, but you can use a low cost light dimmer.
Title: Re: Stripboard woes
Post by: flester on August 31, 2018, 09:17:59 AM
Board was from Maplins  who are now out of business. Maybe I am using too much heat, so thanks for the tip on using a light dimmer. The iron is a basic 40w also from Maplins. Also have a Weller one but it needs a new tip.

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Title: Re: Stripboard woes
Post by: flester on August 31, 2018, 09:18:33 AM
Don't think my solder is lead-free but I will check.

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